Which Fram Oil Filter.

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Swinger 340 said:
Mine was a seam detachment, outside of the "O" ring, where it attaches to the outer casing. It was just a lot of drips, not a forceful flow. Enough to mess my driveway up.
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I hate getting oil on the driveway as it's so hard to clean up. Personally I've never had a oil filter separate like that. I've had them crush but that was because of the clown who installed it put it on way to tight.
 
I've cut apart a lot of filters through the years. I've seen a lot of Fram filters that looked like they had a roll of toilet paper stuffed in them for the filter media. That's no exaggeration. That's exactly what it looked like. No thanks.
 
CFD244 said:
What about the "Tough Guard" and "Ultra" filters by Fram?
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I wouldn't even touch the Tough Guard or Extra Guard. Fram Synthetic Endurance and to a lesser extent the Ultra Synthetic are the only somewhat decent ones and I would use them, IF I was desperate. But for basically the same money or spending a couple bucks more you can be buying better oil filters like Wix, Purolator, Mopar etc.
My favorites are the Mopar MO090, Mobile-1 M1-204A and the Purolator Boss.
For example: Local Autozones here sells Fram's PH43 for $11.99, PH16 for $10.99 and a HP3 for $15.99.
Or you can also get the following from Autozone:
STP Extended Life S16XL for $9.99
Motorcraft FL300: $13.99
AcDelco: PF53 $11.99
Mobil 1 M1-204A: $14.99

Oreilly's:
Wix 51085: $12.99 (they list 51068 for my actual vehicle, but I chose 51085 as it's more convenient)
Wix XP 51085XP: $15.99
Mobile 1 204A: $17.99
AcDelco & Motorcraft both at $13.99
Mopar MO090: $11.99
Bosch 3402: $8.99

Napa:
Napa Silver 31068: $4.99
Napa Gold 1068: $12.99
Napa Proformer 21068: $6.49

Wal-Mart:
Fram Extra Guard XG16: $8.97
Fram Tough Guard TG16: $7.17
Fram Synthetic Endurance FE16: $12.97
Purolator One PL14670: $10.02
Purolator Boss: PBL14670: $14.40

So am I really saving money by buying Fram? Spending couple bucks more and getting a better quality oil filter is what I'll be doing.
If I need a cheap filter I'll just get a NAPA or Bosch.
I used to use Fram like crazy in the early 2000's when I had my 92' Jeep Cherokee, until I saw one cut open and it was compared to a Purolator, never went back.
Now the Fram Ultra Synthetic and Synthetic Endurance are actually built quite decently, however nobody around here except Wal-Mart sells these, I hate shopping at Wal-Mart. If I happened to be at a Wal-Mart getting an Oil Filter I'll just go ahead and buy the Purolator Boss for a couple more bucks.
 
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MidnightSwinger said:
Id use just about anything other than a fram filter.
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toolmanmike said:
None. Don't use Fram. They are poor quality.
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harrisonm said:
I have always used the Fram 43 on my barracuda because of a header clearance issue. The 43 is a little bit shorter than the 16. I bought several of them several years ago, and my car is due an oil change now. I am looking for a replacement for the PH 43. I have always had good luck with the Fram brand.
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CFD244 said:
That's the problem with social media. I've never had a problem with Fram. I never wiped my flat tappet Comp Cam either.
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DumpsterFire said:
Fram might very well be the worst filter money can buy.
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67Dart273 said:
No, Fram has always been junk.
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There are critics everywhere and on the internet, people sure like to pile on.

Fram filters.
Graveyard Cars.
Magnum Force suspension.
KYB shocks.
Harbor Freight tools.
Uncle Tony's Garage.
Pennzoil oil.

I've seen the videos posted where oil filters are cut apart and inspected. I've also ran FRAM and other brands and never had a problem.
I ran an '84 Chevy truck over 440,000 miles using almost exclusively FRAM filters. I've used them on some of my cars too.
Years ago when I heard the FRAM critics and their warnings, I switched to WIX or NAPA Gold filters or Mopar branded filters just to play it safe. I still have had zero problems. In the past though, I've used the Fram HP-1, the PH8A, the 43 and maybe the 16?
I've had cams go flat, lifters go bad but even then, I've never had a crank bearing show evidence of contamination. Think about that....if the filters are not filtering, wouldn't the shavings from the cam and lifters embed the crud into the bearings? I've had the engine in and out of the car a few times in the 24 years I've owned the car and the crank and cam bearings always look great. I replaced them anyway but I didn't have to. They still looked great and were within spec on oil clearance.
Do what you want but it seems to me that some internet chatter is just repeated by those that never had any direct experience with what is being bad mouthed. This may fit that description.
Sure, going with a higher priced filter may be cheap insurance so I can see the appeal of doing that, but.....
I don't believe all of the doomsayers.
 
Kern Dog said:
There are critics everywhere and on the internet, people sure like to pile on.

Fram filters.
Graveyard Cars.
Magnum Force suspension.
KYB shocks.
Harbor Freight tools.
Uncle Tony's Garage.
Pennzoil oil.

I've seen the videos posted where oil filters are cut apart and inspected. I've also ran FRAM and other brands and never had a problem.
I ran an '84 Chevy truck over 440,000 miles using almost exclusively FRAM filters. I've used them on some of my cars too.
Years ago when I heard the FRAM critics and their warnings, I switched to WIX or NAPA Gold filters or Mopar branded filters just to play it safe. I still have had zero problems. In the past though, I've used the Fram HP-1, the PH8A, the 43 and maybe the 16?
I've had cams go flat, lifters go bad but even then, I've never had a crank bearing show evidence of contamination. Think about that....if the filters are not filtering, wouldn't the shavings from the cam and lifters embed the crud into the bearings? I've had the engine in and out of the car a few times in the 24 years I've owned the car and the crank and cam bearings always look great. I replaced them anyway but I didn't have to. They still looked great and were within spec on oil clearance.
Do what you want but it seems to me that some internet chatter is just repeated by those that never had any direct experience with what is being bad mouthed. This may fit that description.
Sure, going with a higher priced filter may be cheap insurance so I can see the appeal of doing that, but.....
I don't believe all of the doomsayers.
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Don’t lump me in with those idiots. I’ve seen, with my own eyes, engine failure due to fram filters collapsing internally. Nothing to do with contaminants or the ability to filter particulates or not. I also run filters that cost half of what fram cost, so it ain’t a “cheap” filter thing either.
 
Or go whole hog the other way from getting Wal-Mart's cheapest. I have to say after the money I see spent on a motor it is not that silly.

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OSHA can eat my rump. Those pencil pushers are assclowns to the 3rd degree.
Although....Eye protection and shoes would be a good idea.
Where are all the blonde and red haired people in that video?
 
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For the love of God man,don't buy Fram.
Friends don't let friends use Fram.
When I was selling parts I cut open every filter we sold. Fram filter media is garbage.
The bulk filters I sold for 99cents a piece were head and shoulders above the fram "tough guard" it looked better than Fram ultra whatever bullshit filter.
 
As far as I'm concerned, oil and air filter production should be operating room clean.
 
Gator said:
I have been using Fram oil filters since 1980 in all of my everyday vehicles and also my Muscle cars and I have never had any issues. Still using Fram to this day.
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Personal choice. I hope your good luck continues.
 
ProjectBazza said:
I hate to say it, much less even think it, but maybe that is "operating room clean" over there.
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Mystery metal composition.
Also note the same dirty shop. Must be standard operating practice.
 
And this commercial battery rebuilds
 
340six said:

Mystery metal composition.
Also note the same dirty shop. Must be standard operating practice.
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I find it funny ("odd" funny) that they don't show the brand of those rotors, but I'd really like to know, as I personally my value my own life, as well the lives of those around me.
 
ProjectBazza said:
I find it funny ("odd" funny) that they don't show the brand of those rotors, but I'd really like to know, as I personally my value my own life, as well the lives of those around me.
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Ever see post that say, rotor to wide to put calipers and pads on. Or drums to large to get shoes on? Only few miles and warped........
I watched to see same thing, I wondered what the name was on boxes.
And I also had the thought.
Maybe some end up as counterfeit for known good brands?
They are being sold to someone.
 
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