WHich Header??

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I had hedman headers on my 318 duster. They hung way too low on the drivers side, lots of dings. Plus, they got a little too close to the steering column, actually making contact with the part above the steering box--where that metal grabber clip is. I had to remove the clip just so I could steer without banging into it. Headers can be a pain, but they sure do sound good.
 
intrested fred i think, due to the reason, that you won´t get so much choices for headers for A-bodies (especially early ones) here in Germany, i decided to go on with an header-kit from Speedwaymotors. And weld them together on my own (with help from my mate who runs a HotRod-Shop)

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mopar-Header-Kits,3841.html

we will see how it works :-D (currently we are waiting for the parts to be delivered)
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Im just about in the 12s through 340 manifolds. Not saying manifolds are the best choice or anything, just saying you can still have some "go" until you have the cash for what you want.
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What size pipes are you using? I'm debating this now. I have a 340 with 71 manifolds in a 65 b body. The right side pipe as it leaves the manifold is so flattened to clear the tie rods that I'm considering headers, the pipes are 2".
 
I have Hedmans on the 360 in my 68 Barracuda. They fit good and clear everything with no issues (I had manual and now have power steering). Three tubes wrap under the steering on the drivers side but they are tucked up well and in 35k miles I have only touched once and that was going over the step into the garage too fast. I really like the ball socket on the collectors over a conventional flange. If they would just increase the thickness of the flange at the head side they would elminate my only grip.

For $150 painted or $300 ceramic coated they are a good value.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
i have cheap headmans, they hang a lil low on the drivers side and barley clear the steering, but don't cost much and get the job done.
no need to haul arse over big dips anyways..right? ha ha yeah...
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Unless your my crazy azz father inlaw...I definitely remember a ride in his D100 at the dump. Swear to god he bottomed that poor truck out 6 or 7 times.

Anyways,tti and dougs make a fine product. TTI is more money and the dougs do the same job for less.
 
dgc333 said:
I have Hedmans on the 360 in my 68 Barracuda. They fit good and clear everything with no issues (I had manual and now have power steering). Three tubes wrap under the steering on the drivers side but they are tucked up well and in 35k miles I have only touched once and that was going over the step into the garage too fast. I really like the ball socket on the collectors over a conventional flange. If they would just increase the thickness of the flange at the head side they would elminate my only grip.

For $150 painted or $300 ceramic coated they are a good value.
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I have a set of flowmaster ball sockets and a pair of hedmans.I was going to use them with my 360,but now am going big block. P.M me if interested.
 
Has anyone tried this Dougs header labeled 2WD truck? It is listed for use with 318-360. part # D4462.
It looks like a happy medium between the tight truck headers and full length headers.
Andrew

Dougs truck header.jpg
 
I would really recommend biting the bullet and buying the headers you want the first time. This is not a job you want to do twice.

Go with the stock manifolds for camshaft break-in to spare the coating.

Due to indecisiveness, I have actually had several different header solutions. I ended up going with Hooker Comps with the black coating (buy bare headers and get the coating done afterward, they do a crappy job. Lesson learned). I probably should have stuck with the Super Comps, but fabbing the rest of the exhaust behind them would have been more of a hassle. I think the Super Comps would have been much easier to get on the car though. Definitely easier to work around for spark plugs and what not.

I had a set of TTi, and really was not impressed by them. Their price is based on the fact that they are the easiest header to install and that's it. I found the workmanship to be sub-par for a header with that kind of price. There are bad kinks in the tubes at the flange, necking down well below the advertised diameter (serious horsepower killer). The ports on the header matched up to the gasket and ports on the cylinder head very poorly also. This would either have caused leaks or also killed horsepower.

I have not tried the Doug's.

The Hookers do hang a little low below the steering, but it is right behind the tire, so go slow, avoid potholes and roadkill and you should be fine. I run a 26" tall tire on the front and so far have had no issues with dragging.

Also, one of the tubes, goes up on the Comps and really blocks access to plugs #5 and #7, and causes the risk of burnt wires, not to mention fingers. I recommend wires with what are called 135* boots for those cylinders. I'm running some of the DEI burn resistant plug boots on those two wires also.

Steve
 
blue missile said:
Has anyone tried this Dougs header labeled 2WD truck? It is listed for use with 318-360. part # D4462.
It looks like a happy medium between the tight truck headers and full length headers.
Andrew
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Those flanges wouldn't fit any small block mopar I've ever seen.
 
I know the picture is generic and the flanges shown are for a chevy. It was the design of the pipes I was talking about.
The listing is for specifically a 318-360 mopar LA for a 94-00 Dodge Ram1500.
Andrew
 
Well I talked to the customer service @ Doug's and they hooked me up with the proper pic. Now about the price for these pipes.........$868.00!!!!!!!!!
He said it was because it was a kit, and they did not offer just the headers without all the other stuff shown.
MaMa didn't make me stupid enough to try to order Spitfires, and I dont want to run full length headers, and Im not paying $900 for a set of mids.
Any suggestions?
Andrew

318 header.jpg
 
wirenut said:
What size pipes are you using? I'm debating this now. I have a 340 with 71 manifolds in a 65 b body. The right side pipe as it leaves the manifold is so flattened to clear the tie rods that I'm considering headers, the pipes are 2".
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Sorry, never saw this. I have TTI 2.5", x-pipe system (off the manifolds) and Dynomax ultra-flo mufflers, tail pipes exit in the stock location.
 
Why do they suck? I have run a set for years and they have worked well. Only thing I had to do was ding one tube when I switched to the small start. It grounded out against the header.

I am about due for a new set of headers. If there is some compelling reason to not get a new set of Doug's let me know?

Dan...
 
Who says they suck...i feel they don't fit as well as tti's but i wouldn't say they suck..
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
spitfire headers look like an abomination.lol

the 1 tube going sideways into the collector....ha ha they must be good for 1-3 hp!
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I know. They look like something that would be used as a drainpipe, not a header. They should beat the person who designed them with a stick. HARD!:toothy10:
 
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