Which heads to get?

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Might want to look at the edelbrock heads that are finished by Indy cylinder head
Team effort heads / ta heads
Indy has the specks on their site


I have these heads on my 340
It runs really well
 
It has already been stated--EQ's for an easy 500 hp with a little correct porting. Edelbrocks if a guy's just gotta have aluminum. J.Rob
 
The set I have are semi finished from edelbrock
Then sent to Indy to be finished

They are the team effort heads or t/a heads

You have to get them from Indy
 
RAMM said:
It has already been stated--EQ's for an easy 500 hp with a little correct porting. Edelbrocks if a guy's just gotta have aluminum. J.Rob
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Yes, and with the expected goals, just about any of the choices can easily get to 400hp. At that point it's about budget.

Pick your parts, pay your money!
 
I notice no one ever talks about the durability of any aluminium cylinder head. Alloy heads will go soft as butter if you over heat the engine so for my money if you can't torque 'em down they are the door stops not the EQ iron heads. Have a look at the basic EQ magnum headed engine RAMM built that made well over 500 hp that is a regular driver.
Cheers
 
Retroboy said:
I notice no one ever talks about the durability of any aluminium cylinder head. Alloy heads will go soft as butter if you over heat the engine so for my money if you can't torque 'em down they are the door stops not the EQ iron heads. Have a look at the basic EQ magnum headed engine RAMM built that made well over 500 hp that is a regular driver.
Cheers
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"Soft as butter" eh? Really? I hadn't heard that. Where did you get that information?
 
Never heard that ether. I've over heated other car brands and there aluminum headed engines, all aluminum engines, aftermarket aluminum heads and have not had an issue with it afterwards.

Aluminum should be very durable. The biggest life shortening issue to aluminum is the end users disregard and misuse of the head starting with the coolent mixture, or should I say there use of "water" with the coolent instead of the proper additive.

I am guilty of adding water when I shouldn't have.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Never heard that ether. I've over heated other car brands and there aluminum headed engines, all aluminum engines, aftermarket aluminum heads and have not had an issue with it afterwards.
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Right, AL heads get overheated all the time and are rebuilt and re-used.
 
magnummopar said:
If you buy the Eq from us for $1500 then we will give you a 35% gift card as well:D
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What is getting forgotten is that if you are starting with an LA engine, then if you go with the EQ Magnum heads set up for $1139 from Magnum Mopar, then you have to spend more $$ to convert the valvetrain parts from LA to Magnum for the oiling-through-pushrods. That's hundreds of $$. I added it all up once, and going with LA Edelbrocks on an LA block was as cheap or cheaper. The OP has an LA block.
 
nm9stheham said:
What is getting forgotten is that if you are starting with an LA engine, then if you go with the EQ Magnum heads set up for $1139 from Magnum Mopar, then you have to spend more $$ to convert the valvetrain parts from LA to Magnum for the oiling-through-pushrods. That's hundreds of $$. I added it all up once, and going with LA Edelbrocks on an LA block was as cheap or cheaper. The OP has an LA block.
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Depends on if you need pushrods and are gonna buy roller rockers. Not much more expensive if you're buying pushrods and roller rockers already.

nm9stheham said:
Right, AL heads get overheated all the time and are rebuilt and re-used.
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They get warped and need shaved.

rumblefish360 said:
Never heard that ether. I've over heated other car brands and there aluminum headed engines, all aluminum engines, aftermarket aluminum heads and have not had an issue with it afterwards.

Aluminum should be very durable. The biggest life shortening issue to aluminum is the end users disregard and misuse of the head starting with the coolent mixture, or should I say there use of "water" with the coolent instead of the proper additive.

I am guilty of adding water when I shouldn't have.
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Okay. This I'm interested in. Not so simple like an iron-iron engine? I've been doing this lately and seeing light operating temp increases.
 
Infecteddog said:
Depends on if you need pushrods and are gonna buy roller rockers. Not much more expensive if you're buying pushrods and roller rockers already.
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Roger, but you need to look at the whole package price, and do the math not just look at the cost of the heads alone. The Autozone discounted Edelbrock heads are in the same price range +/- a few 10's of $ as the EQ Magnums so any valvetrain parts may tip the cost advantage one way or another.

And not to be negative, but it may well that Mopar Magnum is making better price margin on selling EQ Magnum over Edelbrocks; hard for me to say. It is certainly a no-brainer to go EQ Magnum for a Magnum engine owner.


Infecteddog said:
They get warped and need shaved.
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As do iron heads; happens all the time with both.


Infecteddog said:
Okay. This I'm interested in. Not so simple like an iron-iron engine? I've been doing this lately and seeing light operating temp increases.
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The issue with AL is that there will always be corrosion between dissimilar metals and that gets worse as the anti-corrosion additives in the coolant wear out after 3 or so years. One metal or the other will be 'sacrificial' and will corrode. In an old iron engine with a brass radiator, the iron is the sacrificial metal, and so all the corrosion is inside the block and heads.... which is why old engines look so crappy in the inside of the water jackets! With AL parts, the aluminum is the sacrificial metal and so any head or rad will experience corrosion This is why AL rads are so much more prone to plugging up versus brass rads over the long term if the coolant is not changed every 3-4 years.

Which reminds me that I am overdue on my Ram CTD coolant change!
 
Retroboy said:
I notice no one ever talks about the durability of any aluminium cylinder head. Alloy heads will go soft as butter if you over heat the engine so for my money if you can't torque 'em down they are the door stops not the EQ iron heads. Have a look at the basic EQ magnum headed engine RAMM built that made well over 500 hp that is a regular driver.
Cheers
Click to expand...

Years ago when I fooled with dirt cars we never had an issue with aluminum heads, believe my they got hot more than a street/strip ever engine will. I bought my Edelbrocks used in the early 2000s and have beat the pi$$ out of them, no issues.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infecteddog View Post
Depends on if you need pushrods and are gonna buy roller rockers. Not much more expensive if you're buying pushrods and roller rockers already.
Roger, but you need to look at the whole package price, and do the math not just look at the cost of the heads alone. The Autozone discounted Edelbrock heads are in the same price range +/- a few 10's of $ as the EQ Magnums so any valvetrain parts may tip the cost advantage one way or another.

And not to be negative, but it may well that Mopar Magnum is making better price margin on selling EQ Magnum over Edelbrocks; hard for me to say. It is certainly a no-brainer to go EQ Magnum for a Magnum engine owner.

mn9, make money selling parts, you are funny:D...to tell you the truth, if I can make $100 on a pair of heads then I am lucky. Typical sales time 3-4 hours working with customer before and after sale is typical. Pick up a few(literally) more bucks selling rockers and pushrods etc. After expense of 6000 sq ft shop and employees/taxes etc it works out to about $20/hr.

I dont do this for the cash because there " aint" none. If I wanted cash I would have gone into banking, finance or some other criminal enterprise . I do it because thats what broke *** old gearheads do.

I make money building and selling injected A bodies, there really isnt **** in parts sales thanks to skummit and jegs selling at my cost with free shipping andhen I beat them on EQ prices I only make $50 but at least its better than no sales. If I dont then everybody just buys from them to save $20. Walmart style.

I will sell you either, I will just feel better about selling you the EQ's. If not, then the only question is what are you going to do with $570 of Autozone Antifreeze from your gift card:D
 
magnummopar said:
If not, then the only question is what are you going to do with $570 of Autozone Antifreeze from your gift card:D
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My guess is he could buy an Edelbrock intake and a complete Comp cam setup the next time they run a 15% or 20% off sale. They do sell other performance parts too.

I bought my Eddy heads there when they were 20% off. That made them under $1400.00 shipped to my front door.
 
Hi,

Myself I decided on the Indy LAX w/ 2.02 valves. 179cc runners. $1150.00 Can't beat it from what I have read for 2 months and looked at all options. LAX will accept my shaft mount rockers, so no additional expense.

My engine is underway with those heads, XE 274 cam, SP H116CP's .040 pistons, Edelbrock RPM Airgap, HEI, 650 DP Holley.

Marion
 
magnummopar said:
I will sell you either, I will just feel better about selling you the EQ's. If not, then the only question is what are you going to do with $570 of Autozone Antifreeze from your gift card:D
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LOL... well good explanation. There is not much money any consumer market parts anywhere I guess. I run a family biz so think about these things. And yeh we have out preferred products too.

I can think of a LOT of things besides antifreeze! The new intake mentioned is one.....and running 2 diesel p/u work trucks runs through a LOT of Rotella....I will run through $570 in general auto stuff in a few months at times.
 
I MAY BE WRONG but after every one input this is what i get out of it .
E Q heads cheep /add rockers and push rods , about the same price as Edelbrock but you still have to add adjuster rockers to Edelbrock also and push rods and your going to do valve covers just because they look good. magnum $199.00 or la $135.00
THE OTHER THING aulminum heads i can get away with more compression and save a few pounds. E Q out of the box out flow edldy. I am going to have to sit down with pen and paper and check total cost for each . Thanks to all for your input .
 
La valve covers fit magnum heads...
One more thought,get one wild and crazy guy to port your current heads...and run.
what you got but you will not be upping your compression unless you cut the heads.
Your heads are probably 68 cc now.
Using edelbrock or EQ will raise compression and you will have to step up on the cam.
More money.
If budget build ,port your current heads.
I'm happy with my EQ heads on my LA motor and have MP valve covers for LA on them
 
Be careful and do some more research: you almost need a spreadsheet to track it all!
- Hughes MA-X heads with 2.02" valves flow the same as EdELbrocks but their price is without the springs and retainers and so those need to be added.
- The EQ's from MagnumMopar have the springs but are 1.92" valves... looks like up to 10% less flow in the .200" to .400" lift range.
It's always sumpthin!

Hughes and MagnumMopar EQ's: probably better finished on the guides and valve concentricity.

The AL heads save around 50 lbs, and 70 lbs if you add in an AL intake manifold.

Yes on the added CR; generally .5 point (maybe a bit more) for the same octane.

As I've said before..... even 20 years ago there were no such reasonably priced, off-the-shelf excellent heads, and not at all 'back in the day'. You had to work it all up on your own. The options now are great, and you'll find something you will be happy with.
 
oops lets try that again...also available in LA bolt pattern...$200 except polish is $25 extra. Billet gasket surface.
 

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Figure your recipe and then buy your parts.
Maybe you should start a new thread that I running 13's and I want to get in the 12's,this is what I got....
Cam
Compression
Carb
Exhaust
 
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