Which Water pump?

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67_Slimer

67_Slimer

Real Hot Rods don't shift themselves.
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This winter project includes my cooling system. New hoses , thermostat, flush out the radiator and block , new water pump. My questions are 1) what pump do you recommend based on your experience? I'm looking into the edelbrock victor, but not sure if it's overkill. Car is low geared 4 speed. Always cruising at 2500 rpms Aluminum heads and radiator 10.5/1 Clutch fan and also an electric pusher fan, also , what coolant do you recommend? Aluminum heads and radiator. Thank you!!
 
What year car 69 and earlier with cast iron pump is shorter than 70 and up aluminum pump, so all pulleys are different lengths.
 
ch1ll said:
What year car 69 and earlier with cast iron pump is shorter than 70 and up aluminum pump, so all pulleys are different lengths.
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It's the 70 and up aluminum pump. Sorry for not including that.
 
Rick eherenburg on eBay, ricksmopars occasionally has water pumps that are supposed to be copies of the police car pumps made by the original manufacturer.

Reasonably priced, not $250.00 you pay for the aftermarket pumps.
 
67_Slimer said:
It isn't, im asking because Just heard good reviews about it and was considering it.
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I gotchya. I haven't used a Flowkooler in a Mopar, but have Chevys and they work well. I plan on getting one for a slant 6 build.
 
I'm a fan of FlowKooler after I had some cooling concerns. In repeated stop and go traffic in the summer, my 5.9 Magnum would creep up to 220⁰. Not terrible but when I pulled the front end (v-belt) to install a cam snout extension, I went with a FlowKooler. Now it stays at 180⁰ no problem. I had done all the normal things such as timing, cowl and radiator seal, etc before with no change.
 
over $300? that's gonna be a no from me dawg.

if you're willing to drop the coin, get a flow kooler.

the $99.95 milodon doesn't move the needle for me when a stock AC/HD cooling pump is probably the same or better and the flow kooler is only like 30 bones more.

remember that it's a cooling system. all the parts have to work together, and this starts with the correct pulleys for the application.

and don't cheap on a t-stat. get a good quality hi flow unit.
 
As Junkyardhero said, be sure to go with a high quality, high flow thermostat (Stewart Components) when you upgrade to a pump like the FlowKooler. The good thermostats have large windows and flow more. The picture I included is not necessarily for a Mopar, but makes the point visually.

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I have used both cast iron and aluminum flow kooler water pumps on a 318 stroker and never had an over heat problem always stay in the 180 range even in 90 degree parade
 
To answer your question;
In about 2000/2001 I installed a Milodon late-style Hi-Flow, (plated 8-vane impeller), HD (5/8ths shaft) pump, and Hi-flow (195) stat. on my 367. They are all still in operation. Doing the math, they have rolled on over 100,000 miles. So I have no problem recommending what I bought in that year, lol. I run old-style Prestone coolant at 50/50
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Additional info:
I run a 7-blade, all-steel fan from a 73 Dart-318 with A/C;
but the clutch is off an old Ford V-belt pick-up truck, maybe early 2000s,
My combo is very similar to yours, except;
no pusher fan, and under-driven pulleys, and my cam is just 230/237/110, and
I run the Commando box, with 3.55s, and a GVod.
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Just FYI;
My ignition Timings are;
>Normal Idle-timing is 12>14, cuz too much more and the 750Dp gets a lil jumpy. But she idles real nice at 550@5*advance.
>My Power Timing is 28* at 2800, going to 34* at 3400rpm which allows me to run 87E10 full-time, without detonation, even up to 195psi, the highest I have tried.
>To get that timing range,
the Vcan was modified for 22 degrees, and I run a dash-mounted, dial-back, timing module that has a range of 15 degrees, which I set to +6*/-9*.
Thus; the total range is;
34d +22v + up to 6 on the module=62*;
and minimum is, 14 less 9module= 5*.
>Cruising around town;
32mph=2000 in Third; 2700 in Second, 4400 in first, and
yes it idles around at 32= 1400 in fourth. but I only do that when tip-toeing past a copcar.
> She runs 207*F at the stat house, no matter what she is asked to do, including;
parading at 500rpm@5* ignition advance =3.6mph, and/or
cruising the hiway at 65=2240 rpm, at usually 56* of timing. But could be more.
Oh and, the carb gets fresh ambient air from above the hood.

Your results may vary.
 
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My Milodon failed in a year. Flowkooler, the big Robert Shaw thermostat and a Flashpower o-ringed thermostat housing. If your thermostat housing leaks, get the Flashpower. You may want to get a lower radiator hose spring too. CJ Pony Parts.

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Put a a Flow Kooler on my small block stroker aluminum heads. Its been on there for 15 years now lots of high RPM pulls. Recored 3 row original radiator (factory AC car), mopar performance clutch fan, high flow thermostat. I can sit in traffic with AC on in 100 degree heat no problem at all.
 
junkyardhero said:
over $300? that's gonna be a no from me dawg.

if you're willing to drop the coin, get a flow kooler.

the $99.95 milodon doesn't move the needle for me when a stock AC/HD cooling pump is probably the same or better and the flow kooler is only like 30 bones more.

remember that it's a cooling system. all the parts have to work together, and this starts with the correct pulleys for the application.

and don't cheap on a t-stat. get a good quality hi flow unit.
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The FlowKooler is only like 128 bucks from Summit.
 
340sFastback said:
Put a a Flow Kooler on my small block stroker aluminum heads. Its been on there for 15 years now lots of high RPM pulls. Recored 3 row original radiator (factory AC car), mopar performance clutch fan, high flow thermostat. I can sit in traffic with AC on in 100 degree heat no problem at all.
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And yet, there are COUNTLESS threads here advising guys with over heating problems to fix their junk up like yours and it falls on deaf ears. You just caint tell um.
 
The high flow cvf waterpumps used to be on Ebay for $50 but $100 on their website. I believe they're the same waterpump as what Edelbrock sells. I've had great luck with mine.
 
RustyRatRod said:
And yet, there are COUNTLESS threads here advising guys with over heating problems to fix their junk up like yours and it falls on deaf ears. You just caint tell um.
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yup. doesn't matter what pump you are using if the rest of the system isn't correct..

i'm running the correct pulleys for a non a/c 70-up small block
high efficiently recored stock 318 with a/c 22" rad.
proper 318 with a/c / 340 fan shroud
5 Blade Fan 4140063
hayden short fan clutch 2947
i even put the hood to rad support seal on the car.

runs nice and cool.. can sit all day in traffic.
 
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abodyjoe said:
yup. doesn't matter what pump you are using if the rest of the system isn't correct..

i'm running the correct pulleys for a non a/c 70-up small block
high efficiently recored stock 318 with a/c 22" rad.
proper 318 with a/c / 340 fan shroud
5 Blade Fan 4140063
hayden short fan clutch 2947
i even put the hood to rad support seal on the car.

runs nice and cool.. can sit all day in traffic.
Click to expand...
Imagine that? Doing something right and it actually working? Who'da thunk it?
 
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