You better hope you don't!, and hope you don't accidentally try, because that little 20 tooth gear will blow up, and possibly take the rest of the trans with it.
>But it gets worse; if the trans blows up at a buck whatever, it could lock the trans up solid, and if you don't clutch it fast enough, you could be
"upside down, backwards, and on fire" as John Force once said.
>But it gets even worse. If you break it at WOT, you better have a rev-limiter, cuz your revs will climb so fast, you may never get your foot off the gas fast enough to not do engine damage, When the valve-springs lose it, the lifters will pump up, and it's entirely possible that the valves will get a ****-kicking from the pistons; and that would cost you an engine.
Like I said; notta chance would I run that trans in your application. You are just inviting catastrophe.
I broke three of those in about a year, all on the street, and without any traction aide, other than the SureGrip and those lousy BFGs that everybody likes to rag on.
One of those A833od's, I busted with a low-compression factory 1973 318, with nothing but a 4bbl and headers........ and it wasn't even at WOT
Any factory Mopar 4-speed will fit into that OD bellhouse with just a machined centering ring installed on the retainer. I swapped at least one example of every 1x23 A833 trans into that opening that Mopar ever built, and multiple times. I got so good at swapping, my record is 17 minutes on a 4-post hoist, and that includes dropping the 3" duals and the GVod. Badaboom. and unless you got a small output shaft on your od box, they all use the same driveshaft, shifter, and X-member.
I get that you have a budget, but IMO, for you, the risks for catastrophe are just too high.
BTW, the right gears to run .73od are, IMO, 3.73s minimum. Running with 3.23s will get you down to 65=1900.. It doesn't take a big cam to still be in reversion at 1900, so, don't be expecting fantastic fuel-economy. To go 93 in the Eighth, I run a 230/237/110 cam, and reversion cleans up by 2400. At 2000, it ain't all that bad, but, my current combo gets the same fuel-mileage at 2200 as it does at 2400, so I run 65=2240rpm, cuz I like 2240@65 lol. the engine is quiet, and seems happy. The slower you rev it, the more critical Cruize-timing will be. I run somewhere between 50 and 60 degrees, depending on terrain and weather. As always; your results may vary.
Just saying, what works for me, friend. Your results may vary. I'm not, as some will say, telling you what you gotta do. Just offering what has worked for me, and trying to save you grief, cuz I already blew a lotta stuff up .
