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SRT_DSTRHOLC

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So I got the motor back together, no water in oil from what I can see.. It needs a little more timing maybe 2 more degrees ummm, but the oil pressure seems to be lower then before with same weight of oil brand and filter...62 when cold...40-30 for awhile and when it gets hot like 180-190 i get 24 in park and 20 in gear at 700-800rpm use to be at like 30 dont believe I have seen lower then 30 before. I also took it around the block and had the gauge drop to zero and then go back up, so I took it home and shut it off
 
20 @ idle is fine.

Sorry….. Didn't see the part about it going to 0 then back up. Are you sure you have enough oil in it?

Normally if it drops to 0 then comes back up you are uncovering the pickup.

How were you driving when it did this?
 
i just turned around the corner to come back home, I believe i tap the throttle to jerk it and then slowed up..what can I do to check if the pick up needs to be lowered?
 
Checking the pick-up would require taking the pan off.



Check the oil level. If it is full toss in another quart and see if you still have the same issue. The engine won't last long if the oil pressure hits 0 very often.
 
same problem with the oil pressure being low? or dropping? and how the hell would i take the pan off with the motor in the car?
 
I've a done it numerous times with the motor still in the car... not a fun job but it can be done.
 
will try to get some kind of gauge idk where from though
 
also I put 10w-30 in first to rinse the motor out if it had water left and the oil pressure I believe was the same as now with the 40wt so im not sure if it would change if I put 20-50 or straight 50
 
Don't use 50, unless your clearances are huge. Check your gauge first; Walmart has cheap ones.
 
Get another cheap gauge, just to test yours, maybe a piece of crap in the tube, lying to you. Then flush again, with some cheap *** 30 weight. And never use 50.
 
ok and if its not should i move to 10w40? I want the most pressure I can get after figuring out why it went to 0
 
so the gauge takes longer to even move off zero now when I start the car which means it takes a while to build pressure?
 
Probably that thick *** oil you are running. People run a weight of oil for a reason.

Just getting "whatever" because they don't have the weight in the brand you want, is not an option.

You have done all this work, had all these problems and you still just do whatever without thought.
 
your saying that the 40wht oil is whats causing low oil pressure or it to raise slowly?
thats funny as hell, cuz this is the same 40weight OIL I HAVE BEEN RUNNING WITH EVERY OIL CHANGE since I first got this car
 
FYI--I was running Brad Penn 10-30 in my stroker 410 and the oil pressure was low at idle around 22lbs or so at 1100 rpm warm. Blurp the throttle and it would go to 65 at around 2000 rpm. I switch oil to VR1 20-50 with Zinc that NAPA does not usually carry on the shelf and has to be ordered. My oil pressure is now 32 lbs at idle and right at 65-70 lbs above idle...........I also am running a Milodon Pan on a 360 block. I only put enough oil in it to BARELY touch the bottom of the dipstick.......which is right at 6.5 quarts of oil........I run it like that to keep the windage at a minimum. I am running a Hughes Girdle so I didn't run a tray. FWIW

Cold it is about 50lbs at idle and blurp the throttle it will hit 90lbs+, remember this is cold. So I dont revvvv it past 2k until it is a little warmed up. Ohhhhhhhh, I am running a Melling HV pump.
 
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