Why is my brake pedal so high ?!

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tell me about the 1/2" adapter. my **** is 10" off the floorboard...!
Just got a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum and made an adapter to go from the four stud to two stud master. Here is a pic of what it looks like now.
DSCF0532.jpg
 
just get shorter leggs..no problem sorry,couldnt pass it up...just went and checked the demon i just bought...thats all stock still,with man brakes.. and it sits high also..been awhile since i had one of these..think they were always high...maybe it was just me...it was the 70's what can i say good luck.
 
I reinstalled my brake pedal and all the stuff associated after I put in a new master cylinder... and now it sits 10" more forward than it should be.. WHat to do?!

If all you did was replace the master, and everything else is the same, then it has to be something with the master or the way you installed it.
 
these are the only pictures I have showing the pedals ( from my carpet/interior install ).

so you can't get an EXACT idea of the difference in pedal height .....but you can definitely see that the brake pedal sure seems to sit up a stretch higher than the gas pedal.





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wow I like those seats!! do you have a dedicated thread telling what the seats are out of
 
Here is a pic of the alum m/c and adapter plate.
I have run these, and cant really tell any difference in braking.
Probably the best thing about them is the the weight savings, and maybe stay cooler.

I dont think this is going to help your problem though. You should be able to bolt oem pieces back together. Somewhere along the line your missing something.

Is the pushrod centered in the m/c ?
Do you have the rubber grommet in the m/c ?
Is the pushrod the proper length ?
 

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There ya go that's it, but as stated it's more the adjustable push rod. Oh, and you will have adjust your brake light switch.
 
wow I like those seats!! do you have a dedicated thread telling what the seats are out of

My build thread link is located in my signature below.

hope you have a minute because I think my thread is 22 pages long lol.....but I documented buying the seats,fabbing up brackets,wiring,and install.

they are from a 2009 Acura TL type S

paid $100.00 for the set.
 
I did a disc brake change from drum and had the same problem. My resolve was that I had bent the brake light switch bracket back about an inch and this was allowing the switch end to miss the peddle assembly. My brake lights were staying on as well and thats what led me to the switch assembly.
After bending it back a little my problem was solved. Lights off and peddle equal to the clutch peddle.
 
Ive been fighting with this problem for long time, I got manual all 4 disc brakes and wilwood master cylinder. When I adjust the pushrod that it will use the full stroke of piston which is 1.1 inches, the pedal is 7 or more inches from the floor. When I shorten the pushrod, pedal gets down but it wont push the piston full stroke. I dont have yet fluid in because trying to figure this out. Is there something to modify in brake pedal? Please help me out with this.
 
two thoughts
1) I swear when I rebuilt my pedal box, that there was a small rubber stopper in the kit installed somewhere that caused the pedal to make a nice muffled thunking sound when it slapped UP against it, to it's Parked position.
2) if you have a period correct MOPAR manual MC, the pushrod is supposed to be held captive in the business end. Three things then determine the actuation of the MC;
1) the pushrod length, and
2) the depth of the pushrod-cup in the MC, relative to the firewall. and
3) the proper bleeding of the piston chambers.

If you do NOT have a period correct MOPAR MC, I have no experience with those.
If you have a MOPAR booster, the pushrod on the pedal side is fixed and you cannot mess with it. But the rod on the MC side still has to be set up to allow the compensating ports to work, same as the non-boosted version.

I only have experience with 67 to at least 75 A-bodies, OEM parts only, and no interchange problems here.
But, In my experience, properly set up;
>I have never seen a brake pedal as high as 10 inches, I think most will come in around 7 or less. And the gas pedal in a 67 to 75 A-body is without exception, always lower. The parking height of that pedal is determined by it's arm hitting the floor-bracket. If you bend it higher, you will have to change your underhood set-up, or block the pedal from over-travel, or risk bending the throttle arm when you floor it.
Any period-correct MOPAR MC can be used on any Period-correct booster with any Period-correct A-body pedal-box.

Having said that;
on A-bodies with a clutch pedal, the narrow-pad brake pedal is always lower than on the same car with no clutch pedal, and a wide-pad brake pedal.
and the clutch pedal always parks a lil higher than the brake.
Hope that helps

BTW
>on a manual brake car;
If you set your pushrod too long;
the compensating ports may become covered in the process. This will make it impossible to bleed the brakes. But if the brakes were previously bled ok, and the pedal is normal height and hard, then: over time, as the pad material rubs off, the pedal will continually get lower to the floor.
If you set the pushrod a lil too short, you just have extra travel, and maybe a lil rattle.
>On a booster equipped car;
the pushrod length will affect the timing and intensity of the assist, because of the way the control valve depends on the up-stream resistance. But if the pushrod is overly long, it is possible to break the control valve on a panic stop, and then the brakes will be nearly impossible to modulate, and the engine may end up sucking air from the passenger compartment.
 
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