Why not cook marshmallows on my under dash fire?

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dkbug

dkbug

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Wires caught on fire last night. No spark. Can't get the motor to turn by key. Wiring nightmare.


What harness is cheap and easy?

Thanks, DK
 
Bet it burnt from headlight switch connector straight to the fuse block..ps.dont like the taste of plastic in my marshmellos.takes to much Budweiser to get the taste out of your mouth
 
I've rewired a dash on a 69 Valiant before. It worked great after that....
 
Im thinking of doing away with my bulkhead. I did clean off all of the bulkhead connectors and my battery terminals last week. The headlights seem to be brighter.
 
dkbug said:
What harness is cheap and easy?
Click to expand...

've had real gud luck wid' 'deze........

Georgia%20Hair%20Dryer.jpg


Google "harness by tranny"

DSMharnessSmall.jpg


This one covers lots of options and add on's but is a little time consuming to install

beirut.jpg


I don't care for this one at all, made by "BlewStreek". they are not color coded very well

3598449023_6001e8787d.jpg


Now I have a question for you Did you REALLY expect a straight answer?
 
Get a can of electrical cleaner, and only electrical cleaner, and spray away all the soot from the fire. Post some pics.

I wouldnt go so far as bypassing every wire on the bulkhead just yet.

I would go with the bulkhead main hot wire bypass. These days, Im not even powering up an old mopar without doing that first. And making sure my engine is grounded to the body. And the voltage regulator is grounded to the body. Those three will cause major headaches.
 
Sorry for the delay. It's a 70 dart swinger originally a /6 car and a 3-spd on the tree. I put a 440/727 in it and can't get it to turn over by key.

Here are a few pictures. My question is is there any safety switches that prevent your ignition switch to work? I do not have my oil pressure sensor and temp sensor plugged in since I'm running aftermarket gauges.

Here are a few pictures of the damage.
 

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dkbug said:
Sorry for the delay. It's a 70 dart swinger originally a /6 car and a 3-spd on the tree. I put a 440/727 in it and can't get it to turn over by key.

Here are a few pictures. My question is is there any safety switches that prevent your ignition switch to work? I do not have my oil pressure sensor and temp sensor plugged in since I'm running aftermarket gauges.

Here are a few pictures of the damage.
Click to expand...

THANK you. See that's all we want, enough info to actually see what you see and have "some idea."

I have bad news. Judging from the photo, there is only one thing to do............Drop the column, pull the cluster and tear the dash apart, and strip out the entire under-dash harness. This is not as bad as it sounds. When I was young, I could do that in 2-3 hours. Nowadays, it would take me all of a day.

WHY? Because when you get meltage like that the wiring in the harness often gets internally shorted together. "Anything" can happen after that

..........and go from there. The way I see it your choices are

1.......Strip out the harness, stretch it out on a bench / plywood, and mark everything. Cut it open and tape it so it stays in place. Physically inspect for insulation damage, and replace the wiring that is affected. Repair other problems, and inspect and repair all connectors

2.......Buy yourself a replacement factory harness from "somewhere" like year one

3.......Find a good used harness and deal with that.

4......Buy an aftermarket harness like Painless........'n many others and just plain start over.

I never said it would be easy.

Be sure to read this article

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Which is not only a great read and summary of the problems these girls face, but also explains the basic power distribution

You have a shop manual? You can download them, free, here

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

and here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Also, from MyMopar, are somewhat simplified, but not always complete or correct diagrams. They are sometimes easier to follow

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
 
So do most of the FABO guys do away with the bulk head connectors? Also, will the aftermarket wiring harnesses allow me to keep my ignition system? Like, keep the ignition control module, switch, and such.
 
I had the same problem with my 68 dart. Took the harness out and repaired all the burnt wires ( or should I say I thought I repaired all the wires), put it back in and still had problems so I bought a harness from Year One which solved the problem once and for all. Make sure to check the under the hood harness as it is probably toast as well as mine was!!
 
Are there any huge differences in a 73 duster under hood harness vs a 70 dart swinger underhood harness???
 
check out on year one to see if they are the same part number. If they are not it means that they are not the same,
 
dkbug said:
Are there any huge differences in a 73 duster under hood harness vs a 70 dart swinger underhood harness???
Click to expand...

Yes. If you had the complete underhood / under dash harness you might make it work with some mods but you need to check things out
 
dkbug said:
So do most of the FABO guys do away with the bulk head connectors? Also, will the aftermarket wiring harnesses allow me to keep my ignition system? Like, keep the ignition control module, switch, and such.
Click to expand...

Read the MAD article. It only bypasses a couple of the connectors. Depends on how you intend to fix this. If you got with a complete, aftermarket system / harness, then yes, get rid of the bulkhead connector.

On mine, I just ran the new wires right through the connector holes. I actually used the wiper connector section
 
GOOD NEWS

The wires that were underneath the dash that melted weren't connected to anything. They were grounding onto the body. Removed them, then bam, she turns over by key.

Now, I assume that since everything works that my underdash harness isn't fried.

What has me baffled now, is that I am now getting no spark but I am getting power to the coil. Both sides of the coil to be exact. HOW CAN THIS HAPPEN WITH TWO NEW COILS?

Found this, http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=82015

Has the ignition switch been a confirmed fix?

Also, I want to bypass the ammeter, how? There has to be a thread on this somewhere. Since I am running an aftermarket volt gauge, I would like to run through that if possible.

Electricity doesn't like me. I don't like it either...

Thanks, DK
 
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