Will I notice relocating my battery in my 60'

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I'd say it depends on how close you are to optimized with everything else.
 
Trunk mounted batteries tend to help traction, but since traction is not a problem for you my guess is it won't help much.

I'd look to making the car lighter not heavier (trunk mounted battery adds weight).
 
green1 said:
No motor? And a motor is electric.
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:thebirdm: But seriously my car is electric 0 emissions. I cant wait to upgrade to one of those engine things.
C130 Chief said:
Trunk mounted batteries tend to help traction, but since traction is not a problem for you my guess is it won't help much.

I'd look to making the car lighter not heavier (trunk mounted battery adds weight).
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Yeah but moves the weight the best spot. By swapping the battery from the right front to left rear would help transfer weight a little.
 
If traction isn't a problem, in other words, you are not spinning, then your carb set-up and/or converter are wrong. It would be possible to be well into the 11's or even 10's with a properly tuned combo like yours - footbraking! But there are a lot of possible variables holding the car back. Personally I think the carb is too big and you could use more gear. I don't use a trans brake and don't know what your converter is doing anyway. But weight isn't what holding you back. However, moving the battery from the front to the rear will help the car be more consistent on a marginal track. The Cal-Tracs should also be readjusted according to instructions anytime anything is done with the weight.
 
Locomotion said:
If traction isn't a problem, in other words, you are not spinning, then your carb set-up and/or converter are wrong. It would be possible to be well into the 11's or even 10's with a properly tuned combo like yours - footbraking! But there are a lot of possible variables holding the car back. Personally I think the carb is too big and you could use more gear. I don't use a trans brake and don't know what your converter is doing anyway. But weight isn't what holding you back. However, moving the battery from the front to the rear will help the car be more consistent on a marginal track. The Cal-Tracs should also be readjusted according to instructions anytime anything is done with the weight.
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Converter is setup due to engine specs. Had a 750 demon carb on it so I got the proform to grow into eventually but it did pick the car up like it is now. I dont want more gear because I drive on the highway and anymore would be ridiculous. Remember this is a pump gas street car driven to the track on radials and with mufflers and does not have a super stock 20k race engine. I have less in my entire car.
 
Actually, most specs are milder on my engine because it's built to Stock class IHRA crate motor specs. But I'm just offering my opinion that some of the components are hurting the car's performance because the aren't working with the rest. You will be somewhat restricted with pump gas and 4.10 gears, but you appear to be bogging the engine with the trans brake and big carb. (I haven't seen the video.) It may be possible to tune a 750 double pumper to leave better footbraking, but it takes time Not enough air velocity and torque with the big carb and not enough gear to let the engine rev fast enough under load.
 
Locomotion said:
Actually, most specs are milder on my engine because it's built to Stock class IHRA crate motor specs. But I'm just offering my opinion that some of the components are hurting the car's performance because the aren't working with the rest. You will be somewhat restricted with pump gas and 4.10 gears, but you appear to be bogging the engine with the trans brake and big carb. (I haven't seen the video.) It may be possible to tune a 750 double pumper to leave better footbraking, but it takes time Not enough air velocity and torque with the big carb and not enough gear to let the engine rev fast enough under load.
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Thanks man. I appreciate the help. Here's the vid link. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwoSuT-B7pU"]YouTube- Byram 3-6-10[/ame]
Go to 57 seconds.
 
The launch doesn't appear "bad", but maybe the 4.10 gears hurt 60' more than I think. I don't know what works best with a trans brake, but with a lot of time and patience, it's possible to get a double pumper to work fairly well footbraking if it's sized correctly. You don't have the gear to accellerate better so you have to look for torque within the combo. Stroker motors and big blocks can get away with less gear because they make more torque through cubic inches.

A low gear set for the 727 would help off the line and not hurt highway fuel mileage. But they are expensive, plus installation. Then if it launches harder with a trans brake, you may have some durability problems with the 8 3/4" ring & pinion and/or differential caps. Some people have had good luck with a brake or 4-speed in front of an 8 3/4 while more have not. I wouldn't be comfortable with it.
 
Is that the video you referenced being in the other thread? I couldn't find it elsewhere.

Its hard to tell a lot from that video, but it doesn't look like the car is transferring weight as well as it could be. (Though you're hooking a lot better than that Ranger-LOL). Are you leaving on the brake in that vid?

What RPM do you leave at? What does your front suspension consist of?

What does the car run 1/8th and 1/4?

Moving the battery might help, but there are probably other changes that would be more beneficial at this point.

Steve
 
driver side is the left, passenger side is the right.

you might find you need the battery over the left rear instead of the common placement on the right rear.

any weight moved from the front to the back should help, the front has too much already.
 
I don't think it would hurt any. At some point, when you do have traction issues, having it there won't hurt you. Make sure the cabling you use is thick enough. I use welder's cable and the Moroso terminal ends, with the other ends soldered rather than crimped.
 
I would move it...it will help with weight transfer even if you don’t necessarily need it at the moment. Just remember, you will have to add an external battery kill switch to keep it track legal.
 
What Fly said, and 3/8 minimum diameter threaded rod to secure it.
 
LXguy said:
Is that the video you referenced being in the other thread? I couldn't find it elsewhere.

Its hard to tell a lot from that video, but it doesn't look like the car is transferring weight as well as it could be. (Though you're hooking a lot better than that Ranger-LOL). Are you leaving on the brake in that vid?

What RPM do you leave at? What does your front suspension consist of?

What does the car run 1/8th and 1/4?

Moving the battery might help, but there are probably other changes that would be more beneficial at this point.

Steve
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Its the same video. I left at 2800 on the tbrake that pass. The front suspension is all stock execept for drag shocks that let the front end have hardly any resistance coming up. That pass it ran a 1.67 60' and 4.90 330' I would tell you the 660' time but the track is only 500'. It kinda sucks but at least its only 5 min away from my house. The car has trapped at 110 in the 1/4 though, but wasnt hooking(30 year old leaf springs, it kinda looked like that ranger).

Locomotion: I was thinking what tire do you run with the 4.30 gear? I only run about a 28 inch tall tire.

Maybe I should just pull the hood and bumpers off and run straight headers with race gas and let my 100lb lil brother drive to see if she has an 11.70 in her.

But seriously, I am going to move the battery and will do it the right way with no bungees. I should have some times soon once I get the rear back together.

Thanks
 
viperredduster said:
Locomotion: I was thinking what tire do you run with the 4.30 gear? I only run about a 28 inch tall tire.
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I run a 4.86 gear with 9"x30" tall Hoosier lightweight radial slicks and a 2.71 low gear 904. But radials don't grow much on the top end so rpm's are higher than with bias ply slicks. I don't recall what the difference was when I switched years ago. Radials are faster but more sensitive to track conditions and will spin easier. It running out of breath at the finish line turning around 6,700 because I have unported stock heads. I leave between 3,000 and 3,500 footbraking and my converter flashes to 5,100-5,300. (Autometer playback tach shows actual highs & lows instead on one having to remember what they "think" they saw for converter flash, shift points, rpm drops, etc.)
 
Just so you all know I've been watching Myron (Locomotion) since the late 70's early 80's and he was one of the only guys to run 10's with a small block way back then. That was before stroker cranks and aluminum heads were available, so he does know how to put a car together and make it run, besides being a top notch driver.

I know he works hard and is very dedicated to his craft, despite being one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet.
 
Locomotion said:
I run a 4.86 gear with 9"x30" tall Hoosier lightweight radial slicks and a 2.71 low gear 904. But radials don't grow much on the top end so rpm's are higher than with bias ply slicks. I don't recall what the difference was when I switched years ago. Radials are faster but more sensitive to track conditions and will spin easier. It running out of breath at the finish line turning around 6,700 because I have unported stock heads. I leave between 3,000 and 3,500 footbraking and my converter flashes to 5,100-5,300. (Autometer playback tach shows actual highs & lows instead on one having to remember what they "think" they saw for converter flash, shift points, rpm drops, etc.)
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Thanks for all the info man. It sounds like you got yours pretty efficient with the unported heads.

Do you know Bill Bagley with a yellow duster that runs in the same class as you I think. He is from Texas so I dont know if yall would have gone to the same events or how it works.
 
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