Will the '68 Dart 225 run again?

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DTFTH45

DTFTH45

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Hey guys, in order to start working on our '68 Dart 270 we want to make sure the car will run again without any major work needing to be done. (We are new to this, but have done some work on old Ford N-series tractors). The car has not run for at least 7 years and it looks like some mice have gotten to the wires (see pic). Any hints on where to start? Id like to see her drive out from behind the baler and not be pulled out :)

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if those are the only wires that are chewed, it is only the wiper motor.. can be fixed but not needed to run.

I would start with pulling the air cleaner off to see if there is a bunch of stuff in it, if not good!

Check the oil...put a battery in it...pull the coil wire off, so you can crank the engine without starting it. roll it over a few times to get the oil moving.

connect the coil wire , add some gas(assuming you have cleaned it all up) to the carb, and see if it starts!

Check the radiator for antifreeze/coolant.
 
pull all the spark plugs and squirt some automatic transmission fluid down each hole to help lube the cylinder walls, pop off the valve cover and tap the top of each valve to get them free'd up or you'll have a bunch of bent pushrods on your hands
 
after that if she gives you a fit mix tranny fluid and gasoline to put down her throat (carburetor) 4 parts tranny fluid one part gas
 
Lube everything up, rotate it over by hand a couple of days, do everything mentioned above.
Dont be scared by smoke when you start it up.
An old slant is kissing cousins to a tractor motor.
 
And disconnect the fuel pump and run a line into a fresh gas can, dump a little gas in the carb and file the points.
 
You should drop the fuel tank and drain out the nasty gas before you attempt to fire it up. It's also a good time to check the condition of the pickup tube and the screen at the end of it. I'd also change the fuel filter right away.
 
Since it has been indoors, I think low risk the valves are stuck. There should still be oil in the guides after 7 years, so you might leave the valve cover on. Best to remove the oil sender and force oil thru the passages. I use a small hand-pump garden sprayer w/ 1/8" NPT tube fitting. If you can, spray an oil mist or stream sideways thru the valve cover oil fill port. Fill each cylinder with a few teaspoons of oil or other lubricant thru the spark plug holes. Turn the engine over by hand. If you feel 3 good air spring resistances per rev, you know it is good. Connect the pump inlet to clean gas and fire up.
 
sireland67 said:
Lube everything up, rotate it over by hand a couple of days, do everything mentioned above.
Dont be scared by smoke when you start it up.
An old slant is kissing cousins to a tractor motor.
Click to expand...

Not to mention the german engineer who designed the slant 6 also designed Mercedes straight 6 of the '50's.
 
Thanks everyone for all the help! we have made the first move, getting a battery (free because of lifetime warranty)! I will keep you guys posted. Thanks again!
 
7 years is nothing for a good old car like that. My Dart sat for like 36 years with some tlc it runs like a top. When I started working on it the motor was locked up tight. Marvel mystery oil freed it up. I would drain out the oil and start fresh with a new filter. I would plan on doing all the belts and hoses too.
 
The slant in my 63 valiant was last driven in 1984 and was also locked up, some oil with marvel mystery oil freed it up. Also I've had lots of issues with valves sticking closed and bending pushrods in my slant sixes, so be weary of that.
 
sireland67 said:
And disconnect the fuel pump and run a line into a fresh gas can, dump a little gas in the carb and file the points.
Click to expand...

Yes, do this. Don't attempt to start it up with gas in the tank. You'll cause more harm than anything. The tank will need to be cleaned but you can start it by running a line into a gas can or even with some gas in a funnel.

A guy I used to work with had a slant in an old Valiant that was sitting on his property for 25 years. We went out there with a gas can and a screw driver and had it running in a couple minutes. I wouldn't have dropped it in a dairly driver or anything, it was just amazing that it still ran relatively smoothly.
 
waggin said:
pop off the valve cover and tap the top of each valve to get them free'd up or you'll have a bunch of bent pushrods on your hands
Click to expand...

This is very good advice. When I fired up my slant after sitting for 8 years I bent 4 pushrods. After replacing those though it rain okay.
~Michael
 
Sorry it has been a while, we finnaly got some parts, so here is the plan:

1. Install new battery. (done)
2. Change engine oil (put in mystery oil too).
3. Change filters.
4. New sparkplugs.
5. Siphon old gas out and add fuel cleaner and new fuel to the tank.
6. Hit the key and pray!

Any changes you would make?
Hints once it starts turning over?
Thanks
 
I bet it fires up no prob, make sure you have something in the radiator as well, I didnt see that mentioned ;) check the breaks and dust it off, looks like a perfect barn score to me. Good luck..oh and shoot us some interior pics
 
Good things:
1. Oil changed and new filter
2. New fuel filter
3. Cleaned up the new sparkplugs that were actually in the car
4. Battery and lights work

BAD:
Poured radiator fluid in and it came right back out...need a new radiator!
 
i got your radiator and a running slant 6 for sale pm me all out of 65 barracuda
 
Before you put much more time into it, determine WHY the radiator leaks. Did it freeze and break, or just rust through? If it looks bulged, I would suspect the engine is broke. You cannot always tell by looking.

Try getting a big funnel and bucket so you can get lots of water in fast, and overcome the rad. leak. Pull the heater hose just below the stat to "bleed" the system. When you get the block full, let it sit a bit, then check the oil and look for water in the oil.

After you do that, you'll have to pull the block plug and drain the water, as it may then freeze
 
67Dart273 said:
Before you put much more time into it, determine WHY the radiator leaks. Did it freeze and break, or just rust through? If it looks bulged, I would suspect the engine is broke. You cannot always tell by looking.

Try getting a big funnel and bucket so you can get lots of water in fast, and overcome the rad. leak. Pull the heater hose just below the stat to "bleed" the system. When you get the block full, let it sit a bit, then check the oil and look for water in the oil.

After you do that, you'll have to pull the block plug and drain the water, as it may then freeze
Click to expand...
Yep.....check to see if it just leaking at a few tubes. If it is, just pinch them off......but keep an eye on the temperature....
 
Tried to start her up yesterday, was cranking good, but would not kick over. Looks like we are getting gas to the carb. This is where we were at years ago, just will not kick over. Any hints to get her to kick over, probably will try again in a few days.

Thanks again
 
Tired her again yesterday, seemed to try and kick over only when the choke cleaner was sprayed down the carb, but she would not fire up. Seems we are getting spark (blackened).
 
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