Will the '68 Dart 225 run again?

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Got her to run today for a few seconds, haha, she was charging good too, I was so glad it was going I messed up on keeping the pedal down, after she quit, quick poof of fire, probably too much choke cleaner. Tried her again, but she wouldnt go. Try again in a few, hopefully keep her running next time.
 
May need to adjust the points in the dizzy a little. What does the inside of dist. cap look like? Maybe adjust timing a little.
Good luck.
 
Tried her again today and no luck. We did not look in the distributor, not really sure if we would know what we are doing once we would be in. Not totally sure how to adjust timing.
 
You need a timing light. Old ones are real cheap today. Clamp in over the #1 plug wire (or put in-line if the really old type) and see if it flashes when the TDC mark on the crank damper aligns with the ~5 to 10 deg mark (before TDC) on the tab on the timing cover. If not, loosen the clamp bolt on the distributor and rotate it until it does (grab top of distributor cap and hope no shocks). Sometimes the TDC mark is off because the rubber slipped on the crank damper, so you might have to set it to where the engine runs best.
 
BillGrissom said:
You need a timing light. Old ones are real cheap today. Clamp in over the #1 plug wire (or put in-line if the really old type) and see if it flashes when the TDC mark on the crank damper aligns with the ~5 to 10 deg mark (before TDC) on the tab on the timing cover. If not, loosen the clamp bolt on the distributor and rotate it until it does (grab top of distributor cap and hope no shocks). Sometimes the TDC mark is off because the rubber slipped on the crank damper, so you might have to set it to where the engine runs best.
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Sorry I was not really thinking when I read this, so here is my newbie question: does the car need to be running for the timing light to work? We have not gotten her to run for any amount of time really.
 
Doesn't have to run, it only needs the ignition to fire to send a signal to the light. might be a bit of a pain, but if you crank it over for a few rounds, you'll be able to see if the timing is way off.
 
3404speed said:
Doesn't have to run, it only needs the ignition to fire to send a signal to the light. might be a bit of a pain, but if you crank it over for a few rounds, you'll be able to see if the timing is way off.
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Ok sounds good, will look into getting one of these and keep you updated, thanks!
 
That one would work, but $87 is very expensive and the design doesn't appear very flexible. I would get one with a remote pickup. An adjustable setting is nice if you want to use it to measure the advance at higher rpm, though some of those aren't reliable. I got a new digital one off ebay a year ago that should be reliable for ~$30 as I recall.

When initially cranking just to see if you have a spark, clamp it on the coil output where you will see more flashes. Then move to #1 wire to see if it flashes at or slightly before the TDC mark.
 
I'd be actually checking spark at the coil. Also, rig yourself a nice big (no 14) clip lead that will reach from the big stud on the starter relay over to the coil + terminal. Clip this on when ready to try it to insure you have good ignition voltage. Do NOT leave this connected for minutes on end while you "scratch your head"

You may have a timing chain issue. Have you run a compression check?

Where is the timing set? You can check it "on the starter" if you have a good battery
 
Sorry we have not had a chance to check anything electrical yet, talked a a friend who has a mechanic relative, thought the carb may be gummed up and we actually are not getting fuel, may account for only running on choke cleaner. When the fuel was siphoned most of the 10 year old gas was gotten out, still may have been a gallon or two in the tank yet, so we added stabilizer and STP additive (red bottle) and put in a few gallons of fresh gas, we know the tank does have some sediment in it. The mechanic recommended cleaning the carb. Should we focus on the fuel system or stick with electrical? What would cause the car to be out of time if it just sat for years?

Sorry, I am a total :newb:
 
I think you should have taken the valve advice. Don't be in such a hurry to get it started, make sure everything is in good shape first. Buy a book and learn all you can on how it all works. THEN mess it up! ;-)
 
Ok, looks like before we kill the battery anymore, we are gonna take the tank out and clean out the old gas, put ALL fresh in, and see where it goes from there. I have looked at some posts and looked in the shop manual about removing the tank, any quick hints to make it go easy?

Sorry it has been a while, I have been working on college applications with my parents instead of working on the Dart :glasses7:
 
Removing the tank is easy. Take out sending unit, make sure to detach the grounding wire (it's small, and I'm assuming a '68 has one, I know later ones do), put a jack or 2 under the tank to hold it, then undo the 2 J bolts at the back, and lower it down while holding it steady. If the J bolts won't come undone, you can cut them with a bolt cutters carefully.

It's easiest to siphon some gas out of the tank if it's real full. It'll be heavy as heck if it's full. At least get it below sending unit hole in any case.
 
Also that out the the filler tube before you lower. The ground wire is on the fuel line at the tank where the rubber line is between hard fuel line and tank. And like stated above, get as much fuel out of the tank before you drop it.
 
HemiPar said:
Also that out the the filler tube before you lower. The ground wire is on the fuel line at the tank where the rubber line is between hard fuel line and tank. And like stated above, get as much fuel out of the tank before you drop it.
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Derp, yeah. I thought about the filler tube for some reason as I was falling asleep last night. I guess if you've never done it before, it may not be obvious :) Definitely take out the filler tube. Remove the grommet from the trunk floor, and unscrew from the filler hole area, then it should just slide out.
 
Don't re-install the tank without a new grommet on the fill tube. I've used old ones and they always leak so I end up doing the job twice.

A few years back I found a cruddy looking Duster with a 6 banger sitting in a field so I decided to buy it. The guy wanted 100 bucks for it and said it had been sitting for 6 years. I brought a battery and gas and it fired right up with a little coaxing. I drove it home, about 5 miles away. The wife nearly had a heart attack when she saw it.
 
Forget dropping the tank right now, un-hook the line from the fuel pump and stick it in a can of fresh gas, eliminate the tank.
File the points, any basic shop manual will show you how to do it.
crank it and see if you have clean spark at the plugs.

This is a simple no cost diagnosis.
 
sireland67 said:
Forget dropping the tank right now, un-hook the line from the fuel pump and stick it in a can of fresh gas, eliminate the tank.
File the points, any basic shop manual will show you how to do it.
crank it and see if you have clean spark at the plugs.

This is a simple no cost diagnosis.
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We will probably try this first before the tank...should have done this before trying to start. Will update as soon as it gets done.


Thanks
 
Thank you for all your help, probably gonna just pull the Dart out of the barn and have it hauled to mechanic. The car is going to need a lot for inspection.

I have noticed that a lot of guys use BF Goodrich Radial TA's, any other tire recommendations, looking to put the rallys back on with new tires so it will pass inspection.

Also, we will probably look into getting a more free flowing exhaust, not sure if headers are worth it. What are your thoughts on exhausts for slants? I have looked a few discussions and it seems maybe a 2.25 in pipe from the manifolds is recommended, with a free flowing muffler. I enjoy the Magnaflow on my Intrepid, not too loud, but has a nice rumble.

Hope everyone had an enjoyable Christmas.
 
Thank you for all your help, probably gonna just pull the Dart out of the barn and have it hauled to mechanic. The car is going to need a lot for inspection.
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Expensive and most mechanics could care less about frigging with old cars. Why don’t you get a factory manual for it, and learn the basics while getting it back to road worthy condition. These cars are simple, can be repaired with simple hand tools, and Rock Auto has a nice selection of inexpensive parts in stock for them. All stuff that a mechanic will love to sell you at a big mark-up.

Any time there is ten year old gas in a tank the fuel system needs to be drained and cleaned, fuel lines blown out, carburetor rebuilt, and probably a new fuel pump installed. Old gas will cause valves to stick, so you need to perform a compression test, and remove valve cover to see what kind of a mess is hiding and observe valve movement. Free any sticking valves as needed before trying to run engine to prevent bent push rods and valve stems.


Plan on a general tune-up: new points & condenser, rotor & cap, spark plugs & wires, valve lash adjustmet plus an oil & filter change… Use a good filter with internal standpipe.

Plan on replacing all of the brake system soft parts; master cylinder, wheel cylinders, flex lines, and shoes and or pads. Repack all wheel bearings, replace any that look scored, blue, or galled.

Inspect all front end parts for slop, replace as necessary.

Perform transmission fluid change and adjust bans if it’s an automatic.

These projects will get the car up and running, and safe.

I have noticed that a lot of guys use BF Goodrich Radial TA's, any other tire recommendations, looking to put the rallys back on with new tires so it will pass inspection.
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TA is one of the few tires that have sizes that fit these old cars. 13 & 14 inch tires are getting hard to find these days that are reasonably priced. There are reproduction tire companies that produce just about any size tire ever manufactured, but man o man they are real proud of them…$$$$$

Also, we will probably look into getting a more free flowing exhaust, not sure if headers are worth it. What are your thoughts on exhausts for slants? I have looked a few discussions and it seems maybe a 2.25 in pipe from the manifolds is recommended, with a free flowing muffler. I enjoy the Magnaflow on my Intrepid, not too loud, but has a nice rumble
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Forget headers on a stock slant, a 2 ¼ “ exhaust system, and a good bump in compression will perk up any slant six. Next step up would be super six (2 barrel carb) conversion and oversized valves making a nice peppy engine. Any more mods will hit your pocket book kind of hard.

Catalytic converters knock out a lot of high pitched sound that six cylinder engines produce not found in V8s that one would hear from a slant without cats.

A single free flowing Magnaflow won’t make a mellow pleasant sound on a slant six with any extra compression, but rather an irritating angry bee sound, and a drone at 2300 to 2700 rpm will make your head explode in no time. You won’t get that nice English straight six sports car sound like a 140 Jag, or Austin Healey 3000 makes without adding a HP2 Flowmaster muffler forward of the Magnaflow to kill all the highs.

I drove my camed-up HO /6 ragtop equipped with 2” duels, and burned out turbo mufflers for a few years with ear plugs, it was nasty. Next I replaced turbos with OEM type mufflers, still too loud & nasty, one could almost hear the radio most of the time, when out of the drone zone. Than this fall I installed two 12” HP2’s in front of the OEM mufflers resulting in a deeper drone free sound not real loud, allowing one to hear engine, and radio while under way.
 
wjajr,

Thank you for the long write up. However, our mechanic has treated us very well, selling most parts at cost to us. This is not the first time he has had to get this Dart back into road worthy condition. We do have a shop manual and many tools, but we would rather get the car done right and inspected. Additionally, the exhaust shop that worked on my Intrepid was also very reasonable, will have to call to check on price for this. I guess we want the car done right. Thanks
 
DTFTH45 said:
I have noticed that a lot of guys use BF Goodrich Radial TA's, any other tire recommendations, looking to put the rallys back on with new tires so it will pass inspection.
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2 recommendations for you:

1. Multi-Mile Sumic GT-A (205 70r14)

http://www.multimiletires.com/tires/Detail.aspx?lineid=232&application=Performance

I have these on my car 9 months a year and have been pretty pleased with them. Yeah, they don't have quite the "flash" and brand recognition as the T/As, but I find them a very serviceable, decently grippy tire that does pretty well in the wet. Not too good in the snow, though.

That's why I also recommend these:

2. General Grabber AT2 (27 8.5 14)

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=Grabber+AT+2

I have these on by back tires, and man I love 'em! These are so good in the snow, they just go right through. Plus, they're quiet and comfortable, too.
 
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