Windage Tray and Main Bearing Cap Fasteners

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JedIEG

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I am thinking to replace my factory main bearing cap bolts with ARP hardware before block machining. I would prefer to just use bolts due to the issues I have read about with the oil pump and studs. My complication is I would also like to use a windage tray. What combination of fasteners are people using with windage trays? Is anyone using ARP bolts and have a way to attach the windage tray?
 
JedIEG said:
I would prefer to just use bolts due to the issues I have read about with the oil pump and studs
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That's because people use the wrong nuts. Use a pinched or stover as it's called style lock nut.
 
Not related to the original question, but if you are planning to use head studs also, make sure the ones that go in the holes on the top row, between cylinders 1&3 and 6&8 don't block the oil passage from the block deck to the rocker shafts. The factory head bolts that go in those 2 holes are tapered to allow proper oil flow. Aftermarket head studs are not. You can index those 2 head studs and get a groove machined into them to allow oil flow. @Oldmanmopar has posted pics of the process to correct the studs if you want to do a search.
 
Factory bolts are fine for most applications. Next would be studs, and you’ll need to order a 12pt nut for the one under the oil pump as it’s not in the kits and enlarge the holes in the factory tray to fit over the studs. Easy peasy.
 
JDMopar said:
Not related to the original question, but if you are planning to use head studs also, make sure the ones that go in the holes on the top row, between cylinders 1&3 and 6&8 don't block the oil passage from the block deck to the rocker shafts. The factory head bolts that go in those 2 holes are tapered to allow proper oil flow. Aftermarket head studs are not. You can index those 2 head studs and get a groove machined into them to allow oil flow. @Oldmanmopar has posted pics of the process to correct the studs if you want to do a search.
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Or you can over size the bolt holes 1/32 of and inch and not ruin a head stud.
 
I don't have a history of this engine running so I'm unsure of the running condition of the factory fasteners. If I'm going to throw $3k+ in my short block, I would like to have fresh fasteners that are not fatigued.
It sounds like studs are the way to go with a 12 point nut under the oil pump- does anyone know the PN for that nut?
 
If you buy the studs from ARP, call them and mention the studs interfere with the pump and ask if they have a bolt to replace that one stud. They will send you the right bolt. Worked for me.

Both Milodon and ARP have sets of studs with 4 of them designed for a windage tray if you want to use one. Milodon also sells just the 4 studs that will work for a windage tray.
 
JedIEG said:
I don't have a history of this engine running so I'm unsure of the running condition of the factory fasteners. If I'm going to throw $3k+ in my short block, I would like to have fresh fasteners that are not fatigued.
It sounds like studs are the way to go with a 12 point nut under the oil pump- does anyone know the PN for that nut?
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I don’t mix bolts and studs.

I machine the cap so the stud doesn’t hit the pump and I use a shorter stud there.

If the machine shop you use doesn’t understand how to do that get a new one.
 
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