Windage Tray Bolts

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DartDad Too

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I purchsed a set of used windage tray bolts for my 318 and they seem to be to long. I'm not sure what to do. If I cut them off I'll run out of thread on the top. Could they be for a big block? Any suggestions?
Greg
 
how much longer are they? May be easier/safer just to get new bolts
 
Almost a 1/2".

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They look about like mine, even after you put gasket/wndagetray/gasket/pan they were too long? It's been a while since I put my engine together but your bolts look just like the ones I used
 
I see, not sure. My tray goes between the where the oil pan bolts up. We have two different setups.
 
You're correct. Mine are attached to these bolts that replace 4 of the main cap bolts. I just measured the hole depth and found that there is plenty of room to tap them longer. That may be the best option. Thanks for you imput.
Greg
 
hi, the bolts are for the 340/360 mains. the 318 mains are shorter height compared to 340/360. best plan is to use a harden washer between cap and bolt. the windage tray will not fit down on to your 318 caps. best bet is to mock it up, and you will see how it all fits up.just food for thought.
 
Once the threads are tapped further and a washer used to get the bolts to tighten down, if the tray doesn't set on the bolt heads, studs can be used and spaced up with washers to tighten the tray down to them.
 
While at the Nationals I got a set of windage tray/main cap bolts from Mancini for the 273 I'm building for the Barracuda. The guy didn't ask for what engine - just went in the trailer and handed me the package. Other than where the tray attaches, they were the same length as what I took out and fit perfectly.
 
A few more questions.
Hardened flat? or lock? Washer
Is there a good way to protect the main journal from chips during the tapping process?
Should I use lock tight on all the threads?
Greg
 
Hardened, flat on the main cap bolts.
Flat on the studs. To tighten down the tray to the studs, I'm not sure if nylon lock nuts would work well enough, perhaps double-nutted, or the crimped steel lock nuts. (I forgot the technical name.)

Doing it with the engine assembled does create a lot of problems. I wouldn't feel comfortable enough to try it.
 
hi, if motor is assembled, do not drill and tap the holes!! ARP sells hardened washers that will fit fine. besides, that kind of work needs to be done in a milling machine to ensure accuracy. don't do it free hand!!! you will have a mess. use moly lube when torquing main bolts, and loctite on windage tray bolts or studs. just food for thought.
 
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