Windage Tray

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A windage tray is to keep oil from splashing back onto the crankshaft. It has slits in it that allow oil to go through into the pan, but not back up the other way. They are not mandatory, but are good for a few extra horses because there is not excess oil to slow the crank down.
 
In addition;

The windage tray is a simple bolt on item. It comes in a kit. It will include 4 new main bolts that are factory modified to accept 4 smaller bolts that are used for attaching the tray to the main bolts. (Bolt, bolting into a bolt at the bolts head.)

The tray itself is bent in a "U" shape. It goes over the crank and mains like a metal house or tent. As the crank spins, just like a fan, it creates wind that can whip up the oil from the pan into itself. Believe or not, slowing it down.
Also in hard cornering and in an aggresive up and down movement, like said above, it also stops the oil from splashing onto it.

The factory unit or the MP unit, should have the slots / louvers opened up and made horozontal for max. oil drainage.

According to MoPar/Chrysler engineers, they claim 15 HP up top. This was backed up by a few mags in there dyno testing. Steve D of Mopar Muscle also did this test if memory serves.

It is one of the cheapest (and easiest if the motor is out of the engine bay) additions to a engine and is an excellent bang for the buck. Last I looked, it was under $50. It's money well spent. Not just spent.

Another excellent oil contol item would be a deeper baffled oil pan. A company like Milodon (for example) makes excellent deep pans. Follow the recomendations on oil filling. (As in you don't need 8 or 9 quarts just because your pan is so called/rated at.)
 
I went from a stock pan to a milodon low profile and picked up 33 hp and 100 rpm on the dyno.
 
Wireweld, exccellent news! For the cost of the pan and ease of install, I bet that was the easiest 33 hp youv'e ever gained. Right?
Oil control is almost never talked about. So simple, it's crazy.
 
I'm going from the Milodon, to the Moroso pan because it is 1" deeper. Now this may impact on the ground clearance, but I'm thinking the exta inch the sump is further away from the crank, the better. May also translate into a few more ponies.
 
I have what I believe is a factory BB windage tray and I plan to buy a Mildoon low profile pan. Can the Mopar tray work with the Mildoon pan, or should I buy the Mildoon tray?

Thanks,
John
 
68droptop said:
I have what I believe is a factory BB windage tray and I plan to buy a Mildoon low profile pan. Can the Mopar tray work with the Mildoon pan, or should I buy the Mildoon tray?

Thanks,
John
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A little advise John, on my 383 I'm running a high volume oil pump and was running a MP windage tray. At high acceleration from stop (foot in the carb) my oil pressure was dropping off 20psi at around 5000 rpm and I nailed it down to the MP windage tray not having enough slots to direct the oil into the pan and instead the oil was going out the back of the tray and starving the pump. This with a 6 quart pan with baffles. The problem went away with the installation of the Milodon windage tray, it has twice as many slots.

Terry
 
demon seed said:
A little advise John, on my 383 I'm running a high volume oil pump and was running a MP windage tray. At high acceleration from stop (foot in the carb) my oil pressure was dropping off 20psi at around 5000 rpm and I nailed it down to the MP windage tray not having enough slots to direct the oil into the pan and instead the oil was going out the back of the tray and starving the pump. This with a 6 quart pan with baffles. The problem went away with the installation of the Milodon windage tray, it has twice as many slots.

Terry
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True enough! I always added drain back holes.
 
lenweiler, I think your on target. The further away the better. Now about ground clearance. Is this a street car or strip only? I think a strip only ride will be fine. Street....I wonder. An inch can be alot sometimes.

68droptop, I would say since your not racing, the MP tray will be fine. Though, the extra bucks for the Milodon tray won't hurt, now will there be more power in the future?
If so, I guess getting it won't hurt any.
 
rumblefish360 said:
lenweiler, I think your on target. The further away the better. Now about ground clearance. Is this a street car or strip only? I think a strip only ride will be fine. Street....I wonder. An inch can be alot sometimes.

Mostly strip Rumble. However. The car's no good to me if I can't use it on the street to set a few bowties straight about Mopar small blocks. Right now, the lowest part of the undercarriage is the exhaust.
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The car's no good to me if I can't use it on the street to set a few bowties straight about Mopar small blocks. :thumbup:

Now there is a novel idea :toothy7: :angel9:

I run a Milodon SS 8 qt pan with 6 1/2 qts. Seems to work fine. Pan is maybe 1/2" lower than the bottom of the cross member - butt not lower than the TTi exhaust.
 
The car's no good to me if I can't use it on the street to set a few bowties straight about Mopar small blocks.
Click to expand...
:wav:
Hey, thats what my wife said to me. Are you two consipering? (sp) er... plotting something for me? :toothy7: He he he. Or is she just telling you what she said to me? :thumbup:

I remember a few posts about a dude or two that ripped there pan off or something like that. Thats all.


388dart says. Pan is maybe 1/2" lower than the bottom of the cross member - butt not lower than the TTi exhaust.
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This is good to know.
 
I was reading the Smallblock stroker book earlier and they say the windage tray was designed for the 318/340's. And it was not recommended for use with a 360??? Made me think about pulling my pan. They also say with a 4" stroker crank you could lose up to 43 hp. The book does recommend using the Moroso pan. without it. The book is, How to build big-inch Mopar small blocks.
Don't shoot the messanger, they wrote that not me.
Anybody here ever test that on the dyno?
 
dustertogo; Big block or small block? Details?

gremlin said:
I was reading the Smallblock stroker book earlier and they say the windage tray was designed for the 318/340's. And it was not recommended for use with a 360??? Made me think about pulling my pan. They also say with a 4" stroker crank you could lose up to 43 hp. The book does recommend using the Moroso pan. without it. The book is, How to build big-inch Mopar small blocks.
Don't shoot the messanger, they wrote that not me.
Anybody here ever test that on the dyno?
Click to expand...

It may have been designed for the 318/340 with it's smaller stroke @ 3.31, but, the factory did equip the E-58 engines with them. (E-58 is a 360 4bbl in the late 70's. An HP motor. Think Lil'Red truck)

Does this mean the factory just slapped it on? Do they know what there doing? Did they think it through?
I don't know. Maybe a bit of both yea and nay in there.

If oil splashing on the crank causes a power loss and a widage tray to close to the bigger 360 stroke doesn't help, where do you/we stand?
(I'm guessing the reason is oil not being able to escape fast enuff to avoid the crank. Kind of like the oil is bunching up and getting in the way because of the longer stroke or something like it. I don't know.)
Maybe one day I'll get to the dyno and find out. Until then, my choices are limited unless I spend. I guess I'll stay with the tray.
 
I don't know where this thread is going. I'm currently running a Chrysler windage tray with the Milondon 8 quart. I dimpled the pan for rodbolt clearance. I would try back to back runs with and without the tray but that intails a pile of work.
What I'm "intending" with the next engine is build a "scrapper" much like this
http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=12313&eTypeID=1
offered by Hughes. I don't need the main re-inforcing since I have a 4-bolt main, but I'll build the scrapper the same way. Now if I was building a 2-bolt main stroker,, I would use this setup. Strengthens the bottom end, AND acts as a scrapper. What a deal.
 
Ok. So I got some info on this stroker/windage delema. My source ( who is fairly close to "leading edge"), said he does not use the windage tray for the 4" stroker builds. The oil does not bleed away from the mass quickly enough and causes drag on the crank. This was proven on the dyno, by people un-named. He suggested that possibly the Milodon screen-type tray would work but seemed unconvinced. So if I keep my W2 408 I'll be removing the tray. I'll also still go with the "scrapper" idea.
 
I had planned on using the Mopar Performance windage tray on my 360 build. Based on the previous info on this thread,
this could be a no-no.

Am I missing something? :???:

Thanks for any info
 
Tony, this could be the reason. (The quote below.) On a 360, I can only guess it doesn't matter much on a mello build. They came stock on some 360's (E-58's) I'm also guessing it would matter on race/performance builds as per Jim Szilagui in his book, "How to build big inch Mopar small blocks." As mentioned earlier in the tread.
I haven'y been there myself. 360's yes. 360 on a dyno, no.

lenweiler said:
Ok. So I got some info on this stroker/windage delema. The oil does not bleed away from the mass quickly enough and causes drag on the crank.
Click to expand...
 
rumblefish360 said:
Tony, this could be the reason. (The quote below.) On a 360, I can only guess it doesn't matter much on a mello build. They came stock on some 360's (E-58's) I'm also guessing it would matter on race/performance builds as per Jim Szilagui in his book, "How to build big inch Mopar small blocks." As mentioned earlier in the tread.
I haven'y been there myself. 360's yes. 360 on a dyno, no.
Click to expand...


Thanks Rumblefish360......I will also take your advice from a previous post and
open up the drain back slots.
 
The factory design tray can be a problem on longer stroeks and higher rpms. It was designed for shorter (3.31) strokes. So 360s (3.58) and MP 4" can be a problem with oil draining off the assembly. The Milodon trays are a better unit, but the real way to keep oil off is a scraper. Then it doesnt just limit the amount being carried "by the wind", but in fact pulls the oil away as it's shed. Scrapers need to be fit tight to work well tho. The MP trays work fine on moderate engiens, but a high winding 360 would benefit more from a scraper and/or deep sump pan then the MP tray.
 
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