Winter time model building thread.

-
I built a similar engine when I was 11 ...50 years later thought I'd do another ...60 Chevy first real car in '67 .. I like Coors .... snow snow snow Merry Christmas
 

Attachments

  • mopar b body 005.jpg
    98.9 KB · Views: 337
  • mopar b body 006.jpg
    71 KB · Views: 316
  • mopar b body 007.jpg
    63.9 KB · Views: 320
  • mopar b body 009.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 321
Alot of cool builds. I posted pics of mine way towards the front of the thread. I just bought my next project. It's something I've never done. I've always built cars or dragsters. I just bought a Peterbilt truck and a tanker trailer to hook up to it. Something different for a change.
 
I know this isn't much, but you can see the start of the chassis in this pic. I will take better pictures as I go along, I just wanted to show you guys what I was starting with. Rectangular frame rails and whatnot.

20101223195806.jpg
 
I know this isn't much, but you can see the start of the chassis in this pic. I will take better pictures as I go along, I just wanted to show you guys what I was starting with. Rectangular frame rails and whatnot.

20101223195806.jpg

this square tube frame is kool keep us posted please,,


also i have a question,,need help or an idea,,, have not built a car in many many years,,not im attempting to build a model of my real car,,,

i have a orignal 66 barracuda shell,,1/25 scale,, bought a 1/25 scale super bee pro street model,, not thinking in real life the super beee is bigger then the barracuda,,

the super bee chassis is a 2 piece,, i made the chassis narrow enough to get it under the cuda body,,(large wheel tubbs) now the chassis is too long the front end is a lot of pieces,, last model i built the axels were a steel rod,, now they have spindles,,

so i need to shorten the chassis, has any one done this with sucess ?? im thinkking ill have a very weak spot where ever i shorten it and glue/bond it back together thanks in advance
 
Ive shortened a few, try to do it at the front or back of the 'floor pan', theres usually enough room to add some bracing under there or you can brace to the interior 'shell'
 
this square tube frame is kool keep us posted please,,


also i have a question,,need help or an idea,,, have not built a car in many many years,,not im attempting to build a model of my real car,,,

i have a orignal 66 barracuda shell,,1/25 scale,, bought a 1/25 scale super bee pro street model,, not thinking in real life the super beee is bigger then the barracuda,,

the super bee chassis is a 2 piece,, i made the chassis narrow enough to get it under the cuda body,,(large wheel tubbs) now the chassis is too long the front end is a lot of pieces,, last model i built the axels were a steel rod,, now they have spindles,,

so i need to shorten the chassis, has any one done this with sucess ?? im thinkking ill have a very weak spot where ever i shorten it and glue/bond it back together thanks in advance
I have grafted the SB PS tubbed rear section to about four differant kits. I also grafted a Matt Hayes PS T-Bird tub to a Stang with great results. I usually cut them at the frame supports making sure both side are square and then glue together, use cloths pins to hold in place and reinforce if needed(I never have needed it) with some flat stock of plastic. Here is one thats on the bench.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00004 (Custom).JPG
    61.6 KB · Views: 276
  • DSC00011 (Custom).JPG
    40.3 KB · Views: 286
  • DSC00012 (Custom).JPG
    59.3 KB · Views: 283
  • DSC00006 (Custom).JPG
    49.4 KB · Views: 269
  • DSC00005 (Custom).JPG
    65.5 KB · Views: 287
thanks for the reply,, i was looking at the pic of your dart,trying to see if and where you cut and shortened it,,

you floor pan is a little differnt then my s bee,,i dont have the console hole/cut out in the floor pan,,the consle cut out in mine is in the interior tub,,

i cant tell where you cut yours at and it look great,, with the rear tires centered in my body i will have to trim the tail of the floor pan but thats no problem,, i had to make it a little narrower to get it up in the body, but the fire wall is to far forward asnd so is the front suspension,,,,

thanks illl stare at your pic and try to seee where you cut it,,,ide like to do it with out over lapping the floor
 
This is the cut. I like the detail of the Revell front suspension over the AMT. I could have finished the frame work better and still might, maybe add frame connectors all the way to the tubs.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00005 (Custom).JPG
    67.1 KB · Views: 282
Well guys... as much as it kills me to say it... I got in way over my head with that pro-stock type charger I was trying to build. I fought with this chassis all day trying to make the kickups for the rear suspension and it just wasnt happening so I am scrapping the project. I will be using the engine in something else eventually, along with the wheels and tires that I bought... but I think I'm just gonna trash the rest of the kit. Oh well, it was fun trying something new but I bit off more than I could chew, lol.
 
Well guys... as much as it kills me to say it... I got in way over my head with that pro-stock type charger I was trying to build. I fought with this chassis all day trying to make the kickups for the rear suspension and it just wasnt happening so I am scrapping the project. I will be using the engine in something else eventually, along with the wheels and tires that I bought... but I think I'm just gonna trash the rest of the kit. Oh well, it was fun trying something new but I bit off more than I could chew, lol.

Bummer on that Zach. It would have looked BA! Put it on the back burner for awhile and come back to it, sometimes that helps me. I have been trying to pro street a VW kit I have and its going to need alot of cutting and scratch building. :clock::clock::clock::clock:
 
Bummer on that Zach. It would have looked BA! Put it on the back burner for awhile and come back to it, sometimes that helps me. I have been trying to pro street a VW kit I have and its going to need alot of cutting and scratch building. :clock::clock::clock::clock:

On a positive now... I think I may be ordering another kit to build "Box-stock" (really meaning just minor scratch building) to get me back into building. I need trying to do to much with my builds lately. :angry7:
 
On a positive now... I think I may be ordering another kit to build "Box-stock" (really meaning just minor scratch building) to get me back into building. I need trying to do to much with my builds lately. :angry7:

I hear yah. Wait till you get to my age and you have 20 years or more of projects that went to far. lol
Box stock with some minor mods are fine for the shelf.
 
I hear yah. Wait till you get to my age and you have 20 years or more of projects that went to far. lol
Box stock with some minor mods are fine for the shelf.

I just realized I have a superbee downstairs that's complete.... an earlier build that I wanted to redo... tub it and put this big block in it? :toothy10: I might have found a use for my wheels and tires!
 
For the past couple of days I've been looking at the '70 Super Bee pro street chassis that homecloned spliced onto an A-body chassis and thinking I should do that with an upcoming '69 Dart build. So today I decided to take a drive to one of the few remaining hobby shops in the area.
They have a good assortment of older sealed models but they can be mighty proud of them. I found the '70 Super Bee pro street kit with a price of $45 on it and thought "no freakin' way" I'm paying that amount!
So I thought as long as I was there I'd poke around and see what else they had. I found a lot of older kits that took me back a lot of years but all with what I considered to be hefty price tags. More searching found a few more '70 Super Bee pro street kits with different price tags - all the same kit. Finally found one that was marked $25 so snagged it.
Hard to believe what some of the older kits are going for now.
They had some neat old Mopar and AMC kits but not for the prices they were asking.
I'd love to find an old MPC Charlie Allen Saddleback '69 Dart funny car kit. I saw one at a vendor at a car show about 5 years ago. He wanted over $100 for it. He can continue to keep it at that price as far as I'm concerned.
 
Thanks!! This turned out to be a whole lot more work than I planned, but then don't they all. lol I finished widening the tail lights tonight of course when I widened the rear quarters that meant the bumper & lights needed to but lengthened out as well. Wow this is a challenge it's going to make my next model a piece of cake (I'm going to do a '73 conversion on a '69 Dart to do a replica of our Dart) Thanks again & I'll keep everybody updated as I get the Edsel through the final stages.

Hey everybody, I finally got back at my Edsel build over the holidays. I got it painted yesterday now to work on the trim & final details before installing the body to the chassis.
 

Attachments

  • HPIM6608.jpg
    71.4 KB · Views: 332
  • HPIM6609.jpg
    73.5 KB · Views: 324
This is the cut. I like the detail of the Revell front suspension over the AMT. I could have finished the frame work better and still might, maybe add frame connectors all the way to the tubs.

thats where i was thinking the cut is,,but the splice is so good i cant tell how you did it,, like i said havent built a kit in years,,and never did any of this type of mods,,

even tho the bee kit has torsion bar front,,ill still use it,, im not going that crazy,,to make it perfectly realistic i would need a mustang front kit,,my cuda is coil over and rack and pinion.

the body im using is an orignal 1966 kit body,,the 65/66 b arracuda kits have never been re released as far as i know,, and from looking at the kits im using parts from,the morden kits are made a lot bettter,,,

this older body used a screwed in chassis and steel axel, so ill redrill the bee chassis and screw the back of it in to the 66 cuda body,that will add support due to chopping and splicing it to make it shorter,, ill get a few pics soon wish me luck,,
 
For the past couple of days I've been looking at the '70 Super Bee pro street chassis that homecloned spliced onto an A-body chassis and thinking I should do that with an upcoming '69 Dart build. So today I decided to take a drive to one of the few remaining hobby shops in the area.
They have a good assortment of older sealed models but they can be mighty proud of them. I found the '70 Super Bee pro street kit with a price of $45 on it and thought "no freakin' way" I'm paying that amount!
So I thought as long as I was there I'd poke around and see what else they had. I found a lot of older kits that took me back a lot of years but all with what I considered to be hefty price tags. More searching found a few more '70 Super Bee pro street kits with different price tags - all the same kit. Finally found one that was marked $25 so snagged it.
Hard to believe what some of the older kits are going for now.
They had some neat old Mopar and AMC kits but not for the prices they were asking.
I'd love to find an old MPC Charlie Allen Saddleback '69 Dart funny car kit. I saw one at a vendor at a car show about 5 years ago. He wanted over $100 for it. He can continue to keep it at that price as far as I'm concerned.

Man thats steep ocdart. I haven't been to the hobby shop in over a year. I was lucky with mine. Back in the mid 90's I was buying the green pro mod kits for $5 at Big Lots(discount closeout store), gave a bunch to kids as gifts but still have some. The DOHC set up is cool. I think someone here has grafted two of them together in a raodster.

thats where i was thinking the cut is,,but the splice is so good i cant tell how you did it,, like i said havent built a kit in years,,and never did any of this type of mods,,

even tho the bee kit has torsion bar front,,ill still use it,, im not going that crazy,,to make it perfectly realistic i would need a mustang front kit,,my cuda is coil over and rack and pinion.

the body im using is an orignal 1966 kit body,,the 65/66 b arracuda kits have never been re released as far as i know,, and from looking at the kits im using parts from,the morden kits are made a lot bettter,,,

this older body used a screwed in chassis and steel axel, so ill redrill the bee chassis and screw the back of it in to the 66 cuda body,that will add support due to chopping and splicing it to make it shorter,, ill get a few pics soon wish me luck,,
I used a small hacksaw type saw to make my cuts so I loose probably 1/64? material. Its pretty thin.
The newer Revell kit is are alot better detailed then the 80's AMT which were ahead of thier time back then.
I have some stangs if you need a front clip. let me check if you want.
Here is another pro mod stang I built back in the 90's. It has a modified Matt & Debbie Hayes T-Bird chassis modified under it. Its need some work and cleaning. Most of my models are painted with DuPont Emron.8)
 

Attachments

  • PC300025 (Custom).JPG
    61.6 KB · Views: 341
  • PC300002 (Custom).JPG
    64.4 KB · Views: 335
  • PC300024 (Custom).JPG
    76 KB · Views: 329
  • PC300018 (Custom).JPG
    68.6 KB · Views: 335
  • PC300016 (Custom).JPG
    71.9 KB · Views: 332
  • PC300015 (Custom).JPG
    74.2 KB · Views: 335
  • PC300012 (Custom).JPG
    71.9 KB · Views: 326
  • PC300004 (Custom).JPG
    66.7 KB · Views: 322
Not to jack this thread , but I have some older plastic models that need to be " ressurected " they are free to anyone wanting to pick them up here in southern Minnesota .. would rather not ship ...

Dave
 

Attachments

  • P1010083.jpg
    144.7 KB · Views: 316
Nice color! 8) What are you plans for it again. Pro mod?
Kind of a "pro-touring" theme. The body is a widened '58 Edsel and the entire drivetrain and interior are from a Dodge Viper. It has twin turbo's on the V-10, full Viper suspension. Here are some pics of the build to refresh everybody. :cheers:
 

Attachments

  • HPIM6350.jpg
    90.3 KB · Views: 301
  • HPIM6480.jpg
    64.3 KB · Views: 289
  • HPIM6490.jpg
    85 KB · Views: 295
  • HPIM6484.jpg
    95.9 KB · Views: 296
Not to jack this thread , but I have some older plastic models that need to be " ressurected " they are free to anyone wanting to pick them up here in southern Minnesota .. would rather not ship ...

Dave

Dave you hijacked my thread now you have to mail those to me.8)

Wish I was closer. I would be all over those.
 
-
Back
Top