Winter transmission builds

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These companies have sales every winter and after I sold my 1.98 gearset last winter
bought another complete 1.80 for 650.00 shipped. I just checked prices now and wholly Mackerel
 
71Demon528 said:
Yes sir. It’s a lot of money to spend to make the transition. And I’m happy with my car the way it is, so no sense in spending the money.
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I am planning to build my 727 after I get a few more parts. I'll be asking for some advice on some of the stuff... clearances and what to look for. I have 2 good 727s to build im leaning towards the non lock up hd 78 truck trans & 2 was in a 10 second B-body no billet drum but I'd like to see whats in it.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I am planning to build my 727 after I get a few more parts. I'll be asking for some advice on some of the stuff... clearances and what to look for. I have 2 good 727s to build im leaning towards the non lock up hd 78 truck trans & 2 was in a 10 second B-body no billet drum but I'd like to see whats in it.
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Get a billet drum. Your right pinky toe will thank you later lol
 
-Boosted- said:
Get a billet drum. Your right pinky toe will thank you later lol
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I ran these 727’s before I had the money to buy good parts. 9.80’s and slower on 200.00-275.00 transmissions my buddy built for me. Back then I used to actually go rounds and we raced every Friday and Sunday. Ran them for three years and he would tear them apart and put gaskets and seals in them. Two years later we would rebuild them. Not one special aftermarket part in them other than better clutches and band.
 
-Boosted- said:
Get a billet drum. Your right pinky toe will thank you later lol
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I have one in a box already. Definitely not running without that and a&a bolt in sprag. I have a hole box of new **** I just need a few more items to put it together
 
pittsburghracer said:
These companies have sales every winter and after I sold my 1.98 gearset last winter
bought another complete 1.80 for 650.00 shipped. I just checked prices now and wholly Mackerel
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Yes sir they’re nuts. Long gone are the days of “you can build this for cheap” when it comes to aftermarket parts.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I am planning to build my 727 after I get a few more parts. I'll be asking for some advice on some of the stuff... clearances and what to look for. I have 2 good 727s to build im leaning towards the non lock up hd 78 truck trans & 2 was in a 10 second B-body no billet drum but I'd like to see whats in it.
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Sure thing. Would be glad to help. And if you would need any parts I can help with that as well. I don’t stock billet drums or steel front planetaries just because the cost of them is high and I don’t have a huge customer base to justify those at the moment, as me and my friend build transmissions on the side, not full time. I do have most of the essential upgrades though as well as lot of core 727s and lots of rebuild kits.
 
71Demon528 said:
Sure thing. Would be glad to help. And if you would need any parts I can help with that as well. I don’t stock billet drums or steel front planetaries just because the cost of them is high and I don’t have a huge customer base to justify those at the moment, as me and my friend build transmissions on the side, not full time. I do have most of the essential upgrades though as well as lot of core 727s and lots of rebuild kits.
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Great thank you
 
Meant to post photos earlier this week. We finished up this powerglide on Sunday before moving into my buddies 727 who I build with.

The glide needed new FTI pump gears
New FTI loaded drum with billet hub and 6 clutch setup
New Kevlar band
New wedding band
Planetary needles pins and thrust washers for 1.80 straight cut set from trans specialties
New sun gear thrust bearing
New reverse clutches and steels
New rooster comb
New Teflon sealing rings
New gaskets and rubber kit
And it got a brand new BTE case as the guy sold his Dedenbear SFI case because it had a Chevy bell housing and he runs a SBF.

As I said in previous post, when we tore this trans down months ago, it was smoked. Saw a lot of heat from burnout competitions which led to all these parts needing replaced rather than just a standard overhaul kit.

Didn’t get any pics of the 727 on the tear down. But when I go over to finish it next week, I’ll take some photos. The bushing in the front pump stator backed out and buried itself in the input hub. Took up almost all end play, and restricted the fluid that feeds the rear clutch (forward gears clutch). This burnt the rear clutches. Car was parked after we found a lifter failure earlier this past season. Had no signs of the transmission giving issues. But since it was out, I said let’s go through it because why not. Good thing we did. How does the bushing back out? No clue. But it sure did. And good thing we caught it before re assembling the whole car just to take the trans back out from issues we would have found out the hard way.

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71Demon528 said:
Meant to post photos earlier this week. We finished up this powerglide on Sunday before moving into my buddies 727 who I build with.

The glide needed new FTI pump gears
New FTI loaded drum with billet hub and 6 clutch setup
New Kevlar band
New wedding band
Planetary needles pins and thrust washers for 1.80 straight cut set from trans specialties
New sun gear thrust bearing
New reverse clutches and steels
New rooster comb
New Teflon sealing rings
New gaskets and rubber kit
And it got a brand new BTE case as the guy sold his Dedenbear SFI case because it had a Chevy bell housing and he runs a SBF.

As I said in previous post, when we tore this trans down months ago, it was smoked. Saw a lot of heat from burnout competitions which led to all these parts needing replaced rather than just a standard overhaul kit.

Didn’t get any pics of the 727 on the tear down. But when I go over to finish it next week, I’ll take some photos. The bushing in the front pump stator backed out and buried itself in the input hub. Took up almost all end play, and restricted the fluid that feeds the rear clutch (forward gears clutch). This burnt the rear clutches. Car was parked after we found a lifter failure earlier this past season. Had no signs of the transmission giving issues. But since it was out, I said let’s go through it because why not. Good thing we did. How does the bushing back out? No clue. But it sure did. And good thing we caught it before re assembling the whole car just to take the trans back out from issues we would have found out the hard way.

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Nice! If you don't min, in your opinion will 6 in the drum hold 1000HP /2850lbs. with 220psi? 5 rear. I used the Blue Sonnax servo. Coan dual ring t400 input.
 
ValiantS said:
Nice! If you don't min, in your opinion will 6 in the drum hold 1000HP /2850lbs. with 220psi? 5 rear. I used the Blue Sonnax servo. Coan dual ring t400 input.
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In my opinion yes, I don’t see it being an issue. With the car being 2850lbs, that helps. What’s your current clutch life look like? If you turned up the pressure a little bit to be safe, wouldn’t hurt, but probably not necessary if your current clutch life looks good. Just my thought.
 
71Demon528 said:
In my opinion yes, I don’t see it being an issue. With the car being 2850lbs, that helps. What’s your current clutch life look like? If you turned up the pressure a little bit to be safe, wouldn’t hurt, but probably not necessary if your current clutch life looks good. Just my thought.
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I don't have any data in that regard..last combo was 2750 and much less power. Although it had the same 'stack' in it and it looks great, I only put 4 660 ft passes and about 5 330ft hits on it lol.
 
ValiantS said:
Nice! If you don't min, in your opinion will 6 in the drum hold 1000HP /2850lbs. with 220psi? 5 rear. I used the Blue Sonnax servo. Coan dual ring t400 input.
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Probably overkill but if I remember right I put 8 blues in a 10 clutch drum on my B1 headed 572 with a sledgehammer nitrous kit.
 
ValiantS said:
I don't have any data in that regard..last combo was 2750 and much less power. Although it had the same 'stack' in it and it looks great, I only put 4 660 ft passes and about 5 330ft hits on it lol.
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Well I certainly wouldn’t be pulling it out of the car to change it unless it gives you issues lol. And if it ever gives you issues in the future, or you see something you don’t like on an overhaul, you can change it then to an 8 clutch setup. But I wouldn’t sweat it.
 
71Demon528 said:
Well I certainly wouldn’t be pulling it out of the car to change it unless it gives you issues lol. And if it ever gives you issues in the future, or you see something you don’t like on an overhaul, you can change it then to an 8 clutch setup. But I wouldn’t sweat it.
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Agree and I wouldn't have but it was out and I decided to both learn and see what I had while I was swapping it all into a BTE bell case and tail. I appreciate all the inputs and I had a few who have said the same which solidifies my understanding. I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION! lol...Pump mods...There is a smaller orifice in the stator which intersects the passage at 11 o'clock in their video at 14:38. Should the passage be enlarged in the stator tube? Currently mine is only about .040" THANKS!
 
ValiantS said:
Agree and I wouldn't have but it was out and I decided to both learn and see what I had while I was swapping it all into a BTE bell case and tail. I appreciate all the inputs and I had a few who have said the same which solidifies my understanding. I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION! lol...Pump mods...There is a smaller orifice in the stator which intersects the passage at 11 o'clock in their video at 14:38. Should the passage be enlarged in the stator tube? Currently mine is only about .040" THANKS!
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This is apparently the converter charge circuit and in an earlier portion of the same video they thru-drill it into the center region of the stator to 1/4" ...i'm wondering if my stator tube is slightly indexed off and it's limiting the passage because I ran a welding rod thru to help gage the size.
 
ValiantS said:
This is apparently the converter charge circuit and in an earlier portion of the same video they thru-drill it into the center region of the stator to 1/4" ...i'm wondering if my stator tube is slightly indexed off and it's limiting the passage because I ran a welding rod thru to help gage the size.
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Since yours may be slightly off, wouldn’t be a bad idea to open that hole up from .040, as that’s pretty small. Probably don’t have to go .250 into the stator tube, but maybe .125, just to make sure it’s less restricted? Is it an aftermarket stator tube, or stock stator tube? I would have to check the size of one that hasn’t been modified and see what the size is. I don’t know off the top of my head.
 
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