Winter transmission builds

-
I like the solid steel spacer thrust goes on the engine side of the plate. I hate Allen bolts with small heads countersunk bolts that bolt on from the rearend side of the plate. These is where that starter shim pack comes into play. I don’t want to step all over this post so I’ll text you some info.
 
-Boosted- said:
I don't know anything about a flywheel and adaptor.... lol

I was hoping I could order a converter that would work with my existing flexplate. Is that not possible?
Click to expand...

My bad Bill, I thought I mentioned that in a previous post about one of the things that also makes the cost go up on the swap haha.
 
-Boosted- said:
Ah, ok. Chevy flexplate (with attached ring gear) and an adapter to bolt up to my existing flexplate. How do I ensure I have proper spacing or is that part of the adapter setup?
Click to expand...

The bell housing came with instructions on adapter and flywheel. JW has them.
 
-Boosted- said:
I need to build a glide.... All the horror stories about the 727's got me skeeerd. lol

*edited for clarification*

My 727 is built for racing with all Cope parts (billet drum, bolt in spag etc...) and I will never do a 1st gear burnout but a catastrophic failure is always in the back of my mind.
Click to expand...
You better build 3 or 4. You'll need em' :poke: :lol:
 
I don't understand why so many people think you need a glide. Most of the guys I know that run a glide have at least 2 of them and 3 or more converters. I've also seen some go slower with a glide vs 3 speed. Been drag racing 48 years with a torqueflite never blew one up . Been with A&A for over 30 years . I average over 150 passes a year. Have it freshened about every 500-600 runs. I run 8.50's in the 1/4 and 5.40's in the 1/8 . Build a torqueflite with good parts and don't worry about it
 
TomMoparMan said:
I don't understand why so many people think you need a glide. Most of the guys I know that run a glide have at least 2 of them and 3 or more converters. I've also seen some go slower with a glide vs 3 speed. Been drag racing 48 years with a torqueflite never blew one up . Been with A&A for over 30 years . I average over 150 passes a year. Have it freshened about every 500-600 runs. I run 8.50's in the 1/4 and 5.40's in the 1/8 . Build a torqueflite with good parts and don't worry about it
Click to expand...
And 900 horse?

240589709_10221931641372411_3154116633131780439_n.jpg


240589709_10221931641372411_3154116633131780439_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
TomMoparMan said:
I don't understand why so many people think you need a glide. Most of the guys I know that run a glide have at least 2 of them and 3 or more converters. I've also seen some go slower with a glide vs 3 speed. Been drag racing 48 years with a torqueflite never blew one up . Been with A&A for over 30 years . I average over 150 passes a year. Have it freshened about every 500-600 runs. I run 8.50's in the 1/4 and 5.40's in the 1/8 . Build a torqueflite with good parts and don't worry about it
Click to expand...
Need and want are two different things. I didn’t need one, I just wanted one.

Already have a built 727 that works just fine.
 
TomMoparMan said:
I don't understand why so many people think you need a glide. Most of the guys I know that run a glide have at least 2 of them and 3 or more converters. I've also seen some go slower with a glide vs 3 speed. Been drag racing 48 years with a torqueflite never blew one up . Been with A&A for over 30 years . I average over 150 passes a year. Have it freshened about every 500-600 runs. I run 8.50's in the 1/4 and 5.40's in the 1/8 . Build a torqueflite with good parts and don't worry about it
Click to expand...

I agree Tom but I also understand why the glide is so popular in bracket racing and where the advantages are. I never agree with people who say they "need" a glide because the 727 wont hold up because that is just false and they are severly misinformed. Bill never said he needed a glide, that is just simply how he wants to run his car, as stated.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Maybe you should have that glide air shifted too, all you have to do is kick back and steer the car, cigar and recliner lol.
Click to expand...
Go electric shifter, this way there is no CO2 to worry about running out. LOL dont hate on automated shifters. I always said I would never run one, then I joined the top bulb class and the window got even tighter to turn on the win light.
 
-Boosted- said:
Need and want are two different things. I didn’t need one, I just wanted one.

Already have a built 727 that works just fine.
Click to expand...
That's weird seeing Fred as your avatar after all this time seeing the S/S
 
71Demon528 said:
Go electric shifter, this way there is no CO2 to worry about running out. LOL dont hate on automated shifters. I always said I would never run one, then I joined the top bulb class and the window got even tighter to turn on the win light.
Click to expand...
If I ran a class like that I'd probably want to win too, if that's what it takes. I was really just making fun of the glide with automated shifter (pop up toaster)
 
71Demon528 said:
Oh I know hahah.
Click to expand...
A friend of mine runs a brand x car with an air shifter and has an onboard compressor in the car , I have seen several cars with them . I also saw recently that Biondo Race Products now offers an onboard compressor setup. This would eliminate the having to worry about full CO2 bottles. I considered an air or electric setup for my Cheetah shifter but after research I found that I would have to change shifters and / or the valve body in the trans . Just an FYI : my 904 has been in the car for 7 years with no problems running 11.50s at 115. I have a really good trans guy I had him build me a complete identical 904 as a spare several years ago .. I haven't needed it !

IMG_0003.jpeg
 
Last edited:
TomMoparMan said:
I don't understand why so many people think you need a glide. Most of the guys I know that run a glide have at least 2 of them and 3 or more converters. I've also seen some go slower with a glide vs 3 speed. Been drag racing 48 years with a torqueflite never blew one up . Been with A&A for over 30 years . I average over 150 passes a year. Have it freshened about every 500-600 runs. I run 8.50's in the 1/4 and 5.40's in the 1/8 . Build a torqueflite with good parts and don't worry about it
Click to expand...


It’s not that we need 2 or 3. It’s a luxury we can afford because powerglides are so much cheaper. Lol. Been there done that and won’t be going back.
 
I run a glide in my Arrow only because that's what came in the car when I bought it. Also was given a complete spare glide and torque converter in the deal. Took some getting use to after running TFs for years. I've only had one issue with the glide so far and that was due to a faulty TB solenoid that would engage intermittently and took out the band. Simple fix and it's been working fine ever since. The 727 in the 72 Dart I had previous, once it got built correctly ( a story of it's own!) hit like gang busters and was reliable. Would I consider going back to a TF in the Arrow? Perhaps, but right now don't see the need to do so.
 
Les Gibson said:
I run a glide in my Arrow only because that's what came in the car when I bought it. Also was given a complete spare glide and torque converter in the deal. Took some getting use to after running TFs for years. I've only had one issue with the glide so far and that was due to a faulty TB solenoid that would engage intermittently and took out the band. Simple fix and it's been working fine ever since. The 727 in the 72 Dart I had previous, once it got built correctly ( a story of it's own!) hit like gang busters and was reliable. Would I consider going back to a TF in the Arrow? Perhaps, but right now don't see the need to do so.
Click to expand...

If you’re already set up for the glide, no sense in going to the 727 in my opinion especially in a light car. If the car was heavy and you wanted to leave harder that’s a different story. But I wouldn’t change it in your case.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top