7dart0
Well-Known Member
I'm fighting a overcharge issue now. Everything was fine then the alternator went full field at idle. Started charging to 17v. Just another bump in the road.
Wiring help for trunk mount battery
- Thread starter 7dart0
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You may have lost the voltage regulator, especially if it was an original. Melting down the ford solenoid may not have done it any favors.
My original VR checked out not too long after I went to my new 100 amp alternator. I replaced it with new on and haven’t had any issues since.
My original VR checked out not too long after I went to my new 100 amp alternator. I replaced it with new on and haven’t had any issues since.
7dart0
Well-Known Member
I tried 3 different voltage regulators all with the same outcome, way overcharging. I have almost 0 voltage drop from ground wire at the block to the Voltage regulator case. I have about a .2 volt drop from output sensor wire from the ignition bulkhead wire to positive side of the battery. I'm pretty sure the alternator let go. Its a reman unit from autozone about 2 years old. unless my one year old AGM battery is bad but it cranks over fine.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Determine IF it is the alternator or the wiring. "The way it works" is that one field terminal is supplied 12V through (originally) the blue wire. This is same as "ignition run" switched by the key
The VR controls "the ground" on the remaining field terminal. That green wire might be grounded OR THE BRUSH in the alternator might be grounded. This seems especially to be a problem with rebuilts. Start by pulling the GREEN VR wire off and it should stop charging.
Also be SURE the VR is grounded and that there is no drop in the ground path from VR to battery.
And, be sure the VR connector is clean and tight.
7dart0
Well-Known Member
I took off green wire it stopped charging. The voltage drop from battery ground to voltage regulator housing ground is .01 to .00. The connector is making good connection.
Tom
Tom
70chall440
Mopar or No Car...
I don't run any solenoids when I rear mount my batteries, granted it is not "track legal" but on a street car it works fine. I run the positive cable from the battery to the starter relay as it is in stock configuration. Good cable is the key to combating parasitic loss and I don't have any issue starting with my 440 6 pack or my 416 6 pack.
When referencing the diagram at the top of this thread, if using a one wire alternator in a drag car that has no factory wiring, where does the alternator output wire come into play? Also, I'm using an MSD7AL-2 ignition, would the +12V 'ignition exciter' wire, from the ignition toggle switch on my switch panel, take the place of the 'field' wire going to the CDR in order to kill the ignition when the kill switch is thrown?
He has a photo and diagram here:
questions about battery disconnect wiring
As far as alternator output wire, not sure what you're asking, but basically it supplies everything once the engine is running.,
If the MSD 7 is like the 6, it sounds like you're talking about the wire for the internal relay. That wire is your on/off switch. Connect it to power and a small current turns on a continuous duty relay inside the MSD.
Concerning the alternator output wire, I'm running a one wire alternator in my drag car. There is no factory wiring at all, meaning there is no alternator 'field wire' as shown in the diagrams. What I had done previously was to run the alternator output, via a number 6 wire, directly to the battery side of the kill switch. The problem with this setup is that even with the kill switch pulled, this wire is still hot. My question is given that I have no factory wiring, where on this diagram would my alternator output wire connector in order for the kill switch to function properly, and by properly meaning that ALL power is cut off when the kill switch is pulled.
dart_68
Well-Known Member
The thing is that unless you actually disconnect the battery(s) at the terminal no matter how you wire it there is always going to be some wire somewhere that is hot. The idea behind the rule in NHRA is that all power to the ignition and fuel pumps be cut off via one central switch on the back of the car. Wiring it the way you did (and as I did) cuts all power the everything except the one wire from the alternator to the battery.
You must not have looked at his diagram.
If you do not want to use a remote 'ford' type solenoid for the starter, then you could use a two pole disconnect that kills your ignition. If the engine isn't running then it doesn't matter that the field is internally powered.
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