Wiring issues

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ricker4444

Some Day
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Manlius NY
Getting closer with my wiring project… I have everything hooked up and the following things are not working right. Trying to figure out what I did or am not doing. The below worked fine before I swapped the under the dash harness. I checked the fuses and they are all good.

- No headlights… Parking, brake, signals, 4-ways all work as they should.
- Overhead lights don’t shut off when I close the doors.
- Wipers not working
 
- No headlights… Parking, brake, signals, 4-ways all work as they should.
headlights should have a continuous feed from the main splice. that the brake lights work says it is farther down stream like closer to the head light switch OR at the dimmer switch

- Overhead lights don’t shut off when I close the doors
the head light switch if turned all the way counters clockwise will click and cause the wire that gets grounded when a door is open to become grounded. check the switch be sure it is not all the way ccw

That you are having Headlighht AND dome light issues sugests something in common like the wiring at the switch


- Wipers not working
wipers get power from ignition IGN1 so if they are not working check that there is power in the run position at the wiper. ALSO if you changed the moor or wiper switch they have to be a matched pair 2 spd with 2 spd, variable with variable, 3 spd with 3 spd etc.


is your wiring an OEM replacement or Not "EZ" "PAIN"full, or other aftermarket kit?
 
I replaced my harness with a M&H which seems to be pretty much plug and play. The switch was working just prior to the swap. I did turn it to make sure it was not all the way CCW. Also, I am not getting any instrument lights other than the turn signals
 
I am not getting any instrument lights other than the turn signals
The good thing is that shows that the cluster is grounded.

Just to be sure the harness is for the year specific car you are putting it on?
 
The headlight switch has TWO power feeds, B1 and B2. One is for only the headlights, the other for park, tail, and instrument. Be sure you have both power sources live.

Then check at the dimmer switch. Anytime the light switch is "full on," TWO of the dimmer switch terminals should be live. Be certain the hi beam indicator comes on when working the dimmer switch. It should be branched in, inside the car. Then go outside and be sure the headlights are GROUNDED, that the lamp sockets are wired to the correct pins, AND THAT THE lamps are actually "good."
 
Dome / courtesy. These are all tied together with a common (OEM yellow) negative side, grounding switch leg. That means that when you open a door, twist the light switch, that (OEM yellow) grounds the circuit to activate the lamps. With non OEM wiring you are on your own, unless you can post the SPECIFIC DESTRUCTIONS to the harness you used. Also if you somehow got a one of those switch leg wires grounded, or the wrong socket which is already grounded (lamp shells should all be not part of that circuit OR A WRONG LAMP installed

EG the older 1004 lamps have TWO contacts for the filament. The lamp shell plays no part.

IF YOU HAVE the optional map light switch those things can eff you up
 
Wipers, not much help Get into the book, section 8 and read the section on wipers. There is usually a few paragraphs on testing them. I believe the switch must be grounded. They have two power sources, one switched through the ignition switch, and the other live, for "park."
 
WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON? Model year, etc You have two or three speed wipers? Do you have a service manual?
 
The headlight switch has TWO power feeds, B1 and B2. One is for only the headlights, the other for park, tail, and instrument. Be sure you have both power sources live.

Then check at the dimmer switch. Anytime the light switch is "full on," TWO of the dimmer switch terminals should be live. Be certain the hi beam indicator comes on when working the dimmer switch. It should be branched in, inside the car. Then go outside and be sure the headlights are GROUNDED, that the lamp sockets are wired to the correct pins, AND THAT THE lamps are actually "good."
TY so much for the advice
 
Wipers, not much help Get into the book, section 8 and read the section on wipers. There is usually a few paragraphs on testing them. I believe the switch must be grounded. They have two power sources, one switched through the ignition switch, and the other live, for "park."
Thank you
 
Dome / courtesy. These are all tied together with a common (OEM yellow) negative side, grounding switch leg. That means that when you open a door, twist the light switch, that (OEM yellow) grounds the circuit to activate the lamps. With non OEM wiring you are on your own, unless you can post the SPECIFIC DESTRUCTIONS to the harness you used. Also if you somehow got a one of those switch leg wires grounded, or the wrong socket which is already grounded (lamp shells should all be not part of that circuit OR A WRONG LAMP installed

EG the older 1004 lamps have TWO contacts for the filament. The lamp shell plays no part.

IF YOU HAVE the optional map light switch those things can eff you up
Thank you so much for the insight. I will go back and retrace my steps
 
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