wiring problems.

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AdamR

AdamR

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I think its time to rewire the car or atleast from the fire wall back.

I put my dash back in, everything is hook up right but now the car overcharges, breaks up and wont idle.

Ive added a bunch of accessories , gauges, linelock, MSD box, fuel pump. None of my factory gauges work, never have since I bought the car (ammeter works but hats all). Ive run out of places to wire the accessories in and it looks like a night mare under the dash.

Sould I use the old dash harness to hook everything up and bypass the ammeter gauge or should I spring for a Painless kit and switch box ? The engine/forward light harness is new.

I have a lot of wiring work a head of me either way. Neutral safety doesnt work and I still need to wire the kill switch. None of the gauges are hooked up except the fuel level. Line lock needs to be wires.

I also should add a relay to atleast the fuel pump. Anything else I should use a relay with ?


Help !
 
When it comes time to do mine, I'm going to use a Painless kit or something equivelant. They use a modern style fuse block, and all the wires are color coded. It should make for a cleaner install.

I would add a relay to the headlight circuit in addition to the fuel pump. Your MSD box should be wired directly to the battery already, so it doesn't need one. Have you added anything else that draws more than 10 amps?
 
What mine use to look like. It was a mess with crimp connectors and loos grounds. I'll have to find or take another pic of it now. Soldiered and shrink tubing, and all neatened up. I won't have any more problems with it now. I also have the painless switch box/wiring.
demonintrs.jpg
 
Yeah Id like ti pick up the 50003 kit. Its 12 circuits and the switch panel. Its $500 though. I'll have to fix the problem with mine for now and keep that on the wish list. I really need to buy trailer this year.
 
it sounds like your not worried about originality, that said, this is how i did a friends car and am on my way to doing mine. we both bought painless switch panels (his is 4-switch fused, mine is 6-switch fused), installed them on the transmission hump between the seats. the switch panel does one thing---control any and all engine functions. the rest of the cars are basically ripped outall the old and start from scratch. we removed any wires that did not need to be there, and basically rewired what was left using factory diagrams to help us where needed. this is a very daunting task to say the least, but if your ride is depending on 35 year old, hacked up, dried up wiring, and you dont fix the problem now---dont come crying to me when your ride burns to the ground. id also bypass that PITA amp gauge and check all bulkhead connections on both sides at the firewall and fix as necessary. and as norm said, solder and shrink wrap everything, adn buy a butane powered solder iron---it works miricles under a dash in tight spaces.

--chad

product5.JPG
 
I wondering if I should go with the painless switch box (probably a better idea) or the Turbo Action comand center to go with my shifter.

I already replaced the forward harness because of bad fusible link that would kill the car off all power at red lights. That sucked.

What are you guys using all the switched for ?

I really only fuel pump and ignition. But It would be nice to have a few extras if I get a electric water pump and fan set up later.
 
my friends is as follows
1. on switch
2. starter
3. fuel pump
4. electric fans

mine is
1. on switch
2. starter
3. fuel pump
4. electric fans/electric water pump (3-way switch)
5. blank as of moment--was going to be second second fuel pump when it was nomally aspirated
6. blank also


i didnt realize before i bought it that the waterpump/fans was on a 3 way switch , so i thought id need a couple extra switches.
--chad
 
I just saw that too. It looks like center is off and you can only have the fan or pump on, not bolth.
 
Mine is:

1. Start
2. Ignition
3. Fan
4. Fuel Pump 1 (not used)
5. Fuel Pump 2 (not used)
6. Water Pump
7. Lights
8. Line Lock
 
Well I pulled the dash back apart today. The harness is in great shape. I dont see any splices in it, all the connections are clean so I doubt its a dash harness problem.

I started straightening it out, I dont want to remove any of the wires that arent being used yet. I cant find my wiring diagram anywhere.

Im going to pick up some good wire and redo the aftermarket gauges, line lock and fuel pump. I think Im going to get the T/A command center for my shifter instead of the painless switch box.
 
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