Wish I knew someplace good to buy single-stage paint economically

-

Bill Crowell

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
1,170
Reaction score
805
Location
Diamond Springs, CA
I'm painting antique cars (on which a base/clear would be incorrect), farm implements and shop equipment with single-stage urethane. I sure wish I knew of someplace that offered good prices on decent-quality paint. Probably this would be an online store rather than a bricks and mortar one(?). I'm thinking that maybe Summit's paint would be the best buy I am going to find, but then again, if I really wanted to be a cheapskate, why not Tractor Supply's paint (if I'm painting it black or red?). Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
John Deere sells Black and Red, (white, yellow and green too) as their equipment enamel. Synthetic Enamel

Here is the Synthetic Enamel Hardener that works with it. Makes it dry a lot faster and lots tuffer of a paint film. Something you can work with if things go wrong.

Here is the JD Paint Thinner for their Synthetic Enamel finishes.

Available at JD dealerships and also can order it in from online.

Ebay . . etc.

Screenshot_20220831-075746_Firefox.jpg

Hardener is from an independent supplier.

Screenshot_20220831-080059_Firefox.jpg
 
Also Ford/New Holland equipment dealers can get you the Blue synthetic enamel, like in your avitar picture.

Uses the same JD thinner and synthetic enamel hardener as above.
 
I'm painting antique cars (on which a base/clear would be incorrect), farm implements and shop equipment with single-stage urethane. I sure wish I knew of someplace that offered good prices on decent-quality paint. Probably this would be an online store rather than a bricks and mortar one(?). I'm thinking that maybe Summit's paint would be the best buy I am going to find, but then again, if I really wanted to be a cheapskate, why not Tractor Supply's paint (if I'm painting it black or red?). Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

I used Amerflint way back in the 80's. It has been bought out and now labeled as Amerflint2. Have not used the newer version. It came out as a cheaper alternative to Imron originally.

Amerflint II Single Stage
 
I've seen three cars (including mine) painted with Nason's "Full-Cryl II" that came out great.

In 2020 enough to do the whole car was about $400.
 
I use Kirker brand which is sold through distributors like
autobody toolmart. Kirker Paint Sample Color Chips

A lot of people will mix the colors to create their own colors. You can buy the colors in several paint types including single stage urethane and acrylic enamel. I have used the Black Diamond 2 stage and have been very happy. I also have used the Urethane single stage matte black. I have 2 of my paint jobs highlighted on their instagram page. You can preview the instagram first page without signing in and you will see my blue demon in about the center of the page and my 51 GMC is down a bit above a christmas ornament, but also a lot of other peoples paint jobs. https://www.instagram.com/kirker_automotive_finishes/

The only complaint I have about their paint is it seems to be a bit quicker to dry than the tech sheets say so you may want to go with a slower reducer than they say. Maybe the single stage are different but that has been my experience and I talked with one of their reps and he agreed.
 
I'm painting antique cars (on which a base/clear would be incorrect), farm implements and shop equipment with single-stage urethane. I sure wish I knew of someplace that offered good prices on decent-quality paint. Probably this would be an online store rather than a bricks and mortar one(?). I'm thinking that maybe Summit's paint would be the best buy I am going to find, but then again, if I really wanted to be a cheapskate, why not Tractor Supply's paint (if I'm painting it black or red?). Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have had nice results with this paint even on engines. Drys fast with hardner and very durable.
Tractor & Equipment | Van Sickle Paint
 
I swore by PPG but I painted my Ragtop 3 years ago single stage Black and it keeps starting to fade on the topside. I have to polish and wax quite often. I had Imron single stage black from 1985 -2019 and it never dulled at all.
 
The problem is the state you live in. A whole different set of rules there for what they can sell and have shipped in.
 
Right here and will ship to you. I've used their paint and it seems ok. It's not best quality, but it will work. I have their midnight blue for my Barracuda convertible.

Also, at one time (not sure how it is today) you could still get Imron and Centari from boat dealers here in California...

Restoration Shop
 
John Deere sells Black and Red, (white, yellow and green too) as their equipment enamel. Synthetic Enamel

Here is the Synthetic Enamel Hardener that works with it. Makes it dry a lot faster and lots tuffer of a paint film. Something you can work with if things go wrong.

Here is the JD Paint Thinner for their Synthetic Enamel finishes.

Available at JD dealerships and also can order it in from online.

Ebay . . etc.

View attachment 1715978704
Hardener is from an independent supplier.

View attachment 1715978705
I've heard nothing but good stuff about John Deere paint. Price, durability and finish all good. I've got some john Deere Blitz black that I plan on using on the Scamp's hood. I bought some high gloss bright white from a different supplier for the main body color and it was defective. Very little pigment. They're sending me another gallon. Hopefully all will be good this time!
 
I swore by PPG but I painted my Ragtop 3 years ago single stage Black and it keeps starting to fade on the topside. I have to polish and wax quite often. I had Imron single stage black from 1985 -2019 and it never dulled at all.
I wonder if it was a synthetic enamel? Those paints would oxidize in like a year or two.
 
The problem is the state you live in. A whole different set of rules there for what they can sell and have shipped in.
Yep, I suggested Kirker before but now that I see it is for California, it may put you into a 2 stage which you did not want. The Black Diamond is a low VOC but a 2 stage, not sure about their other paints. You would need to look at the VOC information for whatever you buy.
 
I'm painting antique cars (on which a base/clear would be incorrect), farm implements and shop equipment with single-stage urethane. I sure wish I knew of someplace that offered good prices on decent-quality paint. Probably this would be an online store rather than a bricks and mortar one(?). I'm thinking that maybe Summit's paint would be the best buy I am going to find, but then again, if I really wanted to be a cheapskate, why not Tractor Supply's paint (if I'm painting it black or red?). Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

Thought I would share some of what I have learned in 30 plus years experience working in the body shop industry, as a painter for several years, before then moving into the office.

At any rate, here is the skinny on automotive paint. Type of materials from worst to first in order are

1. Straight Enamel. This is cheap stuff. It can look nice to start with but will not hold up for the long run. No way I would spray a car with it- hardener or not.

2. Acrylic Enamel This is decent paint and is not much more expensive than the regular enamel. OEMs used it on solid color(no metallic or pearl) lower end vehicles up into the 90's. This is entry level in my opinion. If the paint does not say acrylic then it is just regular enamel. Centari was the Dupont brand I sprayed back in the day.

3. Single Stage Urethane paints are very good for a solid color. I would not use it with metallics, especially if you plan to sand and buff the car- as most hobby painters will want or need to do. Long lasting scratch resistant good paint.

4. Acrylic Urethane paints are the single stage urethane's cousin. Made mainly for fleet, trucking, marine, and equipment type stuff. They are a little different to get to lay down and flow when sprayed. For a pickup truck that is used as one, a fiberglass boat that the gel coat has faded out on that you want to paint this is great stuff. This is the Imron and Amerflint brands among others. They have both one stage, and base/clear system available. This type paint is the best for longevity with no muss or fuss. Tough as nails.

5. Basecoat Clearcoat. This is on nearly every new car manufactured for the last 30-35 years. It is the best choice for metallics and pearls. Also the best choice for something that you might drive a lot that is likely to need repairs down the road. Easiest to get a color "match" that blends well enough that very few could tell it had been repainted. Base/clear system gives the best appearance of depth to the paint job. The clear is a clear urethane and holds up equally as well as a single stage urethane. This is what I would use on almost anything that I would work on.

To complicate things further, for base/clear there are value lines of paint, then their are high end paints. For example Omni is PPG's brand of value line stuff. It is decent to work with. DBC ppg is a high end paint. This stuff is known as the best for color matching for a repair. They have an ultra high end base clear as well called Global. Stuff is high as giraffe balls so I would not venture there unless you are going for a show car and money is no object.

I did not mention lacquer based paints as there are only a few old dog hold outs that would even consider using it.

None of this info is meant to put down anyone else's projects or experience. It is just my educated opinion on auto paint. We all have different budgets and expectations. 90% plus of any decent paint job is in the prep regardless of what paint is sprayed over it.

For those interested Kevin Tate has a series of videos called "paintucation" or something like it that would help guys and gals out with limited experience.
 
The Nason's Full-Cryl II did very well with metallic Y1 medium bronze.
 
You mean Plasticote in the spray can ain't any good?
 
Right here and will ship to you. I've used their paint and it seems ok. It's not best quality, but it will work. I have their midnight blue for my Barracuda convertible.

Also, at one time (not sure how it is today) you could still get Imron and Centari from boat dealers here in California...

Restoration Shop
Jim hit the nail ON THE HEAD! I have been buying paint, primer and body work supplies from TCP Global (Restoration shop is their name for their paints) for a long time. They have a line of 'their' colors plus they will mix pretty much any color for any car ever made. Just enter year and make and you will see paint options and prices. I painted my 69 Cuda with their base/clear paint. I find that it sprays, covers and polishes out as nicely as any paint I have ever used.
Cuda58.JPG
Cuda59.JPG
 
Found these guys on Ebay, just delivered me a gallon of acrylic urethane factory pack white and quart of activator for $100 to my door. Ordered Monday got it today so good service.

Have not used any of their product before, but they have cheap prices like they were 20 years ago. I am going to use in on my old RV wheels and will report back.

Not in any way an endorsement, just throwing out another option.

https://clarkswholesalepaints.com
 
Found these guys on Ebay, just delivered me a gallon of acrylic urethane factory pack white and quart of activator for $100 to my door. Ordered Monday got it today so good service.

Have not used any of their product before, but they have cheap prices like they were 20 years ago. I am going to use in on my old RV wheels and will report back.

Not in any way an endorsement, just throwing out another option.

Quality autobody products at wholesale prices
Wow! Prices are good. I'll be waiting for your review. Thanks Steve
 
Thank you very much, FABO people! Your replies contain so much valuable information. I really appreciate it, and will be referring to your replies in the future.
 
So...what's the best quality? Some feel these are the "go too" single stages.
Ful Thane...Delfleet Essential...or Uno
 
-
Back
Top