WIW - 1968 Barracuda 383 Formula S 4 speed

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69CudaFan

69CudaFan

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I know that I did not want to get :worthles:

and that they are worth a 1000 words, so here we go:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=8780

Sorry for the pics, I did not take them.

I have not seen this car in person, but here is what I know:

Car has sat for some time, and has a very bad amatuer paint job, some rust on the roof, and cracking bondo at the base of the window where the seams for the dutchman panel USED to be. They look filled in and are cracking.

Unsure if it is numbers matching and here is what I see so far:

It is a real "H" code car.

It has a 4 speed and is a FB

It looks like a 120 speedo (standard) with a performance indicator or tach.

Looks like the bezel is intact, so perhaps not much has been monkeyed
with behind the dash with wiring, etc.

Looks like the stock BB radiator

The fold down seat was an option

Grilles and trim rings are in boxes (unless those are extras behind the seats

The interior looks okay, though it needs to be freshened (and perhaps
there is a buildsheet under the rear seat)

The 8 3/4 is there (unsure of ratio), though it looks a bit leaky or
just crusty near the bottom

There are some mods to the car (electric fan, steering wheel, hurst
handle and perhaps shifter. Is that an auto console? Makes me wonder if it had cooling
issues, or was a warmed over 383 (which may indicate it is non-numbers
matching).

Also, supposedly there is a fender tag, but it needs to be located.

Not sure if heads, intake and exhaust manifolds are there...That car needs quite a bit, and some of the parts (if they are not stowed away somewhere), are hard to source and expensive. That says nothing about machine work, rebuild, and chasing small odds and ends.

I have a number in my head that I am thinking but wanted to see what other members thought. I also know there are members like matthon and Rocky_JS that know more about the 67s and 68s, but I welcome any thoughts, advice and things in particular to look for.
 
Really weak on info.

What is the original color of the exterior and interior?

A really weak WAG on price would be $7K to $15K.

Need to take inventory of the special 68 383 items. Radiator, heat sheild, manifolds, hood inserts, special A-body big block oil pan, front sway bar is actually a tad thicker,

#'s radiator is a big deal. Although you can get them repro from Glen Ray for $$$.

Fender tag is huge. If you are looking for car to restore to stock or stock-like, just pass on it without the tag.

Numbers motor, trans, and buildsheet are also very very big deals.

I like to get and idea of what this car would be worth fully restored also. Not that project cost plus resto cost equal selling price. That never happens unless something was paid for under market value.

I'm thinking this car fully restored if it's a good color, has tag, buildsheet, numbers motors is maxed out at $45K. That's reasonable perfect storm of a car. Other opinions on a '68 383 4spd fastback done prices???

If it's missings some of those key elements deduct.
 
Steve and Dan,

Sorry...that is all the info I have right now. I am going off of second hand info and pictures. I go to look at the car on Sun. Perhaps I will know more tomorrow or Sunday. If the fender tag shows up, that will help. If the block is not toast and is numbers matching, that will help. My understanding is the partial VIN is at the 11 o'clock position on the back of the block, a tad different from 69s.

I also thought that a finished 1968 383 Formula S FB would be mid to high forties maxed out. That is for a show quality correct car with provenance.
 
ph23vo said:
7-8 k should be fair
Click to expand...

Sounds about right from what I imagine in my head the condition and completeness of this car being. But in my experience, no two situations are alike.

If this car is missing most all the special 383 things, totally non numbers, no fendertag... I'd say less than $7-8K
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
That is a 4 speed console. Value... I have no idea.
Click to expand...

Used it does. If you are restoring the car, it's one more piece to spend money fixing. It does add value though to the done car.

Although if the top plate and console lid is pitted all to hell and you are doing a resto, the repro plate kit is $609. Rechroming should be a little less and still going to show inperfections.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
That is a 4 speed console. Value... I have no idea.
Click to expand...

So, what is the giveaway it is a 4 speed console? Just curious.

Also, my understanding is that the 68 a mixed bag when it comes to shifter choice? Were there Inlands and Hurst shifters, or is that an later or aftermarket piece? Also, if the Hurst is an OG piece, it should have the Reverse light, and an Inland would not. True statement?
 
About $8k because that rust issue seems like it's going to be a head ache. Without the rust over $10k easily.
 
autoxcuda said:
Used it does. If you are restoring the car, it's one more piece to spend money fixing. It does add value though to the done car.

Although if the top plate and console lid is pitted all to hell and you are doing a resto, the repro plate kit is $609. Rechroming should be a little less and still going to show inperfections.
Click to expand...


I was talking about the value of the car, not the 4 speed console since it wasn't for sale.
 
69CudaFan said:
So, what is the giveaway it is a 4 speed console? Just curious.

Also, my understanding is that the 68 a mixed bag when it comes to shifter choice? Were there Inlands and Hurst shifters, or is that an later or aftermarket piece? Also, if the Hurst is an OG piece, it should have the Reverse light, and an Inland would not. True statement?
Click to expand...

inlands early in production year, hurst later. Don't know approximate cutoff date. Don't know if there is enough research to make a good guess.

Research what the correct shifter should look like. They are expensive repro and used.

Hurst should have a reverse light. So look for that bezel or hole in dash.

Tough to factor console vs non console 4spd selling value difference after restored. Just a little more juice to help sell faster. Maybe $1K. These cars don't grow on trees, so it's a smaller detail. Paint, interior, numbers are much bigger issues.

Since this car is partially taken apart, you need to know your parts and parts ID. Take a million pictures of every square inch. A picture of every box that is opened. Need to make inventory list.
 
69CudaFan said:
So, what is the giveaway it is a 4 speed console? Just curious.

Also, my understanding is that the 68 a mixed bag when it comes to shifter choice? Were there Inlands and Hurst shifters, or is that an later or aftermarket piece? Also, if the Hurst is an OG piece, it should have the Reverse light, and an Inland would not. True statement?
Click to expand...

The hole in the top plate and the cut-away at the bottom for the shifter mechanism. There is a cup that also belongs on that cut-away that isn't shown.
 
Here is some shots of a cup that Steve a/k/a 4spdragtop posted in another thread.

attachment.php
attachment.php
 
At this point, I am unsure if the heads, exhaust manifold, intake and carb are with the car.
Carb should be #4426 - Carter AVS if my memory is good...I will be digging through every corner. Bad news is that parts might be in three different physical locations.

Also, for me the really big hang-ups is if there is a fender tag, and if the block is numbers matching and salvageable.

Also, what are those holes above the script emblem and Formula S logo in this pic?
vbpgimage.php
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I was talking about the value of the car, not the 4 speed console since it wasn't for sale.
Click to expand...

Oh **** I didn't see there was a link to pictures. Yea, that's a $7-8K if he can find the fender tag.

Misc. ramblings...

Those look like they could be the original exhaust manifolds in picture #6 in the very right corner !! Research the 68 383 exhaust manifold numbers.

That's not an original 4spd console shifter handle. Looks like original non-console shifter though. Might be indication that it was originally an Inland shifter car. Price repros and new.

Console plate is ok shape. For $45k resto it must be rechromed, but should come out nice.

Check if the dual point distributor numbers are right for 383 4spd car.

Passenger inner fender looks beat to make room for headers or some hacky work.

spare tire well has had trailer hitch holes drilled in it.

Someone has sprayed black paint all over underside of car.

Carpet on rear interior compartment panels means it was probably a deluxe interior car with woodgrain inserts in door panels. IIRC, pedel dress up stainless was part of deluxe interior.

Are those and extra set of rear trunk trim moldings in the rear storage area?

If originally that med blue, that is a above average color.

Research the correct Carter AVS carb numbers for a 383 4spd car. Might be in one of the boxes.

The correct 2898033 radiators sell for $900+ : http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=268188
 
69CudaFan said:
At this point, I am unsure if the heads, exhaust manifold, intake and carb are with the car.
Carb should be #4426 - Carter AVS if my memory is good...I will be digging through every corner. Bad news is that parts might be in three different physical locations.

Also, for me the really big hang-ups is if there is a fender tag, and if the block is numbers matching and salvageable.

Also, what are those holes above the script emblem and Formula S logo in this pic?
vbpgimage.php
Click to expand...

Those holes do not belong there.

Yes, the fender tag is huge. For what I'm guessing you are looking for in a car, that's a deal or no-deal thing.

The block would have to be cracked internally in a non repairable place. External cracks or even holes can be lock-stitched fixed. You'd just sleeve it if it's too rusty to clean up with an overbore. Being it's taken apart, you never know why. If it's numbers, I think you are in good shape. Check the trans to see if it's numbers too. Will be on pad on side of trans.
 
Steve,

Good eye. I did not notice the manifolds. If they are correct, that helps.

Exhaust manifold casting numbers - 2946729 passenger's side and 2863900 for driver's

Intake Casting number - 2806301

Carb - #4426 or 4426S Carter AVS

Heads castings - 2843906

Good info on the carpet, holes in tire well, black paint (perhaps done when car was resprayed). I am hoping to get the car in some daylight and take some better pics.

I was thinking $6500-7500 if it all checks out with minimal issues. They can keep the mag wheels and tires.

Steve, the plan for this car would be something along the lines of my 69 or better.
 
69CudaFan said:
The correct oilpan is the 187 with idler arm clearance, correct?
Click to expand...

I believe the the original A-body 383-440 pan is a "893" stamping on it.

But the "187" is the common swap pan that works.
 
Good to know on the oilpan. Just want to go at this car with eyes wide open. Please check my numbers posted above...
 
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