Would a hood scoop help my problem?

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How many square inches is required for a scoop to be efficient?
Can only find home ducting calculator the require more area than any scoop out there??????
 
Ok, have decide to go with a hood scoop. See if i can find some consistent cool air. Where would i go to find the carb base plate, and sealing material between base plate and hood?
 
Cudafever said:
Here's my problem, i have big swing in et when my engine has cooled (still up to temp but my water pump and electric fans are not on) when it has cooled enough to turn of the pump and fan.(run off of thermo switches) My car will run a full tenth faster. 8.27(1/8 mile) Hot lap it and it runs a 8.35.

With my old motor, i have a full throttle kill switch that killed the alt charge while i was going down the track. i believe it helped, but.............

Those that have installed a hood scoop, do you think it's the hot air being ingested from under the hood or do you think the alt is robbing that much power when it's trying to keep up with two electric fans running???
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what alt are you using?
 
Anyone on the hood scoop gasket and base plate? All i have found on jegs and summit is shaker hood ring clamps and gasket for some ford product.
I have a beat up twin scoop hood that i picked up many a years ago. (yes this is for a E body) Someone hacksaw the scoop opening so now it is a functional scoop(sorta ). It's going to take some special sealing to seal it to the carb and hood bracing.
 
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Cudafever said:
Standard Chry with the large V belt pulley.
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well when i first built my 73 dart i was always having charging problems with the stock ALT, but mostly with not wanting to charge very good at idle. so i removed it and installed one of these. they are more money than a factory alt. But after i installed the new 120 AMP Alt i didn't have any more charging problems. Also this is a factory dodge part so any parts store should have on in stock. Also the new one would put out 14V at idle. Now i am not saying you have to do this, but just wanted to say it made a good difference on my car. here is the link to the one i used.

Alternator - 1989 Dodge B150 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
Cudafever said:
Anyone on the hood scoop gasket and base plate? All i have found on jegs and summit is shaker hood ring clamps and gasket for some ford product.
I have a beat up twin scoop hood that i picked up many a years ago. (yes this is for a E body) Someone hacksaw the scoop opening so now it is a functional scoop(sorta ). It's going to take some special sealing to seal it to the carb and hood bracing.
Click to expand...

I use a 3x17 round cake pan. Cut the bottom out and riveted to a 1 1/2" drop base open filter bottom. I had some extra window channel rubber to seal to the hood. K&N 14x4 and summit filter top. I have a 16" round hole in my hood and use a dual snorkel scoop.
 
mopar65 said:
well when i first built my 73 dart i was always having charging problems with the stock ALT, but mostly with not wanting to charge very good at idle. so i removed it and installed one of these. they are more money than a factory alt. But after i installed the new 120 AMP Alt i didn't have any more charging problems. Also this is a factory dodge part so any parts store should have on in stock. Also the new one would put out 14V at idle. Now i am not saying you have to do this, but just wanted to say it made a good difference on my car. here is the link to the one i used.

Alternator - 1989 Dodge B150 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Have you done the wiring fix for the high amp alt?
That is what is stopping me from the update.
I took my alternator to a shop that only rebuild alternator,generator and starters. he said that they could put a different part in it and it would fix the no charge at low idle. That's why i can run the larger pulley, and still charge at idle in gear.
Someday it will happen. Have also been told that they take less HP to run even though they Charge Way More Amps.
 
Cudafever said:
Have you done the wiring fix for the high amp alt?
That is what is stopping me from the update.
I took my alternator to a shop that only rebuild alternator,generator and starters. he said that they could put a different part in it and it would fix the no charge at low idle. That's why i can run the larger pulley, and still charge at idle in gear.
Someday it will happen. Have also been told that they take less HP to run even though they Charge Way More Amps.
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Yes i replaced all the factory wiring when i installed the new Alt.
 
mderoy340 said:
I use a 3x17 round cake pan. Cut the bottom out and riveted to a 1 1/2" drop base open filter bottom. I had some extra window channel rubber to seal to the hood. K&N 14x4 and summit filter top. I have a 16" round hole in my hood and use a dual snorkel scoop.
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Thanks! thats some good info for a cheap base plate. I'm going to need some kind of foam to seal to a non flat hood. If this workout and i like it. then i will hack a hole in my nice flat hood and attach a scoop of some sort.

This is the hood that i will be installing, only mine is freee!
70 74 Barracuda Cuda Dual Scoop Twin Bulge Steel Hood | eBay
 
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I got 2 dart or demon hood scoops for sale , ihad some other 1ns on the same coler car I had pqinted so I put that hood back on . I bought them for 200 inhere sell them for the same , mine keep my motor 170 all day now . a lot of air flow coming
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in
 
The last one we did used a 14'' carb base and got foam from a upholstery shop.He layered it for the height to seal the carb to the hood.About 2 1/2 to 3'' or so.
 
Thanks, found a sight that had many different kinds of foam. my base plate will have to be a lot bigger as i will be using my 14" air filter with this set up. I think it will need it bigger just because of the wide scoop spread.
Today is the day to clean out my shed(only way i will get my hood out of there)
 
I had a bracket car that had the same problem. No hood scoop, just an open element air cleaner. First run off the trailer would be 11.60s, then after that it would slow to 11.75-11.80s. I installed a hood scoop and a pan attached to the bottom of the air cleaner that sealed to the hood with foam so it only drew air from outside the engine compartment and it helped a lot. First run was still fastest but after the first run it only slowed a few hundredths and stabilized. I never did anything to kill the alt, fans or electric fuel pump.
 
Doosterfy said:
I had a bracket car that had the same problem. No hood scoop, just an open element air cleaner. First run off the trailer would be 11.60s, then after that it would slow to 11.75-11.80s. I installed a hood scoop and a pan attached to the bottom of the air cleaner that sealed to the hood with foam so it only drew air from outside the engine compartment and it helped a lot. First run was still fastest but after the first run it only slowed a few hundredths and stabilized. I never did anything to kill the alt, fans or electric fuel pump.
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Thanks!
That is what i wanted to hear!!!!
 
forphorty said:
Moroso Air Pan Kit Sealing Foam 97070 60 inches of foam doesn't go very far. I used every bit of it.
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Hmm didn't use the right words in the search eng. That's what i was looking for.............. but the more i look at this hood the more i know it will have to be custom made.
That does help me though, need to look for Fire retardant foam. that thought didn't cross my mind, but it should have!
 
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the scoops I posted are from a dart or demon but on my car I positioned mine over the vale covers and manifolds , and it was amazing how much cooler the car runs and now gets a ram air effect , and also cools my intake , so i am not cooking my gas and most cars look awesome with scoops checkout mine on my 65 barracuda these holes were just cut to big for those scoops, , buy really the 1ns I wanted on there , under you hood will just flow out the heat and , your car will be 20 degree"s cooler inside driving with vents open 9am to 9pm central .go to my pro file and call the # in there , but useually onhere until 1 or 2 west caost 2 hour behind us . they not only look good going down the road , butare totally functional and my car wont go over 185 in the worst of heat unless stuck in traffic then I just rev to 3200 and it has 2 more holes to blow it out , the black wouldn't look ggod on blue , but the silver popps if my hood wasn't cut bigger for what I have on , those would have been skim coated and painted yellow or silver and put on they are for sale ipaid 200.00 here or you can buy my style at any after market cosmetic place . forlike275. 00or 300.00 . they do work . as far as your alternator or fans you probably blew your regulator , on the fire wall or need a bigger alternator these are 35 to 48 you might need an 80 , 1nce every thing is turned on ,but without uodated wiring be care full or you will start burning 55 year old wires that beenheat cycledfor55 years also == cracked wire coatings . pm or call me
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winstoninwisc said:
the scoops I posted are from a dart or demon but on my car I positioned mine over the vale covers and manifolds , and it was amazing how much cooler the car runs and now gets a ram air effect , and also cools my intake , so i am not cooking my gas and most cars look awesome with scoops checkout mine on my 65 barracuda these holes were just cut to big for those scoops, , buy really the 1ns I wanted on there , under you hood will just flow out the heat and , your car will be 20 degree"s cooler inside driving with vents open 9am to 9pm central .go to my pro file and call the # in there , but useually onhere until 1 or 2 west caost 2 hour behind us . they not only look good going down the road , butare totally functional and my car wont go over 185 in the worst of heat unless stuck in traffic then I just rev to 3200 and it has 2 more holes to blow it out , the black wouldn't look ggod on blue , but the silver popps if my hood wasn't cut bigger for what I have on , those would have been skim coated and painted yellow or silver and put on they are for sale ipaid 200.00 here or you can buy my style at any after market cosmetic place . forlike275. 00or 300.00 . they do work . as far as your alternator or fans you probably blew your regulator , on the fire wall or need a bigger alternator these are 35 to 48 you might need an 80 , 1nce every thing is turned on ,but without uodated wiring be care full or you will start burning 55 year old wires that beenheat cycledfor55 years also == cracked wire coatings . pm or call me View attachment 1714945027 View attachment 1714945025 View attachment 1714945027 View attachment 1714945027 View attachment 1714945029 View attachment 1714945025 View attachment 1714945027 View attachment 1714945025 View attachment 1714945027
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If I was wanting to cool my eng compartment down, when driving down the road, these would be way cool!
But i'm not!
I'm trying to "isolate" the under hood air from my carb. Soo they won't work for me. Thanks anyways.
 
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Cudafever said:
Thanks!
That is what i wanted to hear!!!!
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You're welcome. Also "electric fuel pump was a typo. I meant electric water pump. I did not make any changes to the electrical system at all, the hood scoop setup made a big difference. I think its fairly simple. After the first run the air temp in the engine compartment goes way up and if you're drawing all that hot air into the carb the power drops off considerably.
 
Here's another option that lets you skip the hood scoop. This is on my street car. The air cleaner is Spectra. I bought it from Summit. $120, it comes with one snorkel on it and another one in the box that you locate and weld on. It aluminum. To be honest its a little on the small side so it is somewhat restrictive. You can buy much larger ones by RamAir Box I think? They're pricey. You could also check the junk yards for a large air filter from an old full size car or truck and add another snorkel. The ducting in the picture is plain old 4 inch dryer duct from Home Depot. It draws air from under the front bumper.

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Doosterfy said:
Here's another option that lets you skip the hood scoop. This is on my street car. The air cleaner is Spectra. I bought it from Summit. $120, it comes with one snorkel on it and another one in the box that you locate and weld on. It aluminum. To be honest its a little on the small side so it is somewhat restrictive. You can buy much larger ones by RamAir Box I think? They're pricey. You could also check the junk yards for a large air filter from an old full size car or truck and add another snorkel. The ducting in the picture is plain old 4 inch dryer duct from Home Depot. It draws air from under the front bumper.

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Yeah i have a stock dual air off of a cordoba or something like that. That was my first idea but it is real pinched down for the factory heat riser on the left side and the other one also goes from a 3 inch opening, down to like a 1.5 inch before entering the filter. felt like i would be trading hot are for restricted cool air. Beside the twin scoop hood, power bump hood or raisin bran hood (Because it has two scoops:p) Whatever you want to call it. It looks much better than the flat hood!

I have only had it for some 15-20 years now. Its time to make use of it. :)
 
Spent all day yesterday cleaning out my shed to get at this hood. When to Wal-Mart this morning and bought the largest round cookie sheet. Went to the craft area and got 4, one inch foam blocks 16"X16". A role 2" X 36" foam and some weather strip adheseve.
As far as flame retardant? figure i will find some kind of flame retardant spray to us on it when i'm done.
I'm beginning to think my cookie sheet is going to be too small for my carb base plate...........
 
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Here is my first attempt at a cardboard template. I will need to make two more small triangle ones to finish up the templates.
I'm no fabricator!!! I will take these cardboard templates to a fab shop and have them made into stamped sheets of aluminum. Then screw them in.
I need to verify that the hole is in the right place and then build a little bit more square(acurite one). Not bad for a first attempt.....
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