X-Head Porting....

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Once the burr is spinning, it will tend to stay straight, but you need a real tight grip on the grinder when it starts. Any stuttering or runout in the bearings or collet will destroy the burr and can hurt you too. A loose grip can give it just enough play for it to whip and bend.
A soft start can help prevent it too, but not sure what it would take to make one for a motor.

I was trying my hand at some cylinder head porting on an old 4cyl alum head using an electric grinder. I nearly lost my fingers! Between the burrs biting and bouncing around the port, the massive weight of the armature, and the abject fear of the burr helicoptering (which did finally happen after about 2 hrs) when I switched the damn thing on, I gave up and decided it just wasn't for me. I had better luck with coarse stones and atf as a cutting fluid, but those electric grinders still make it tricky. Spool up too fast and spool down too slow.
 
yellow rose said:
Remind me what the biggest diameter tool you use is, and what RPM you run it.

TIA
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Die grinder runs at 25k rpms and the biggest bit that bent was 1/2in diameter, the two smaller bits that bent were 1/4in diameter. All of them had 1/4in shanks.

Maybe I will try and take the grinder back and exchange it for another one tomorrow and see if it does indeed have runout on the collet, which im assuming means its off round or not tight enough causing the burs to not spin evenly and causing them to bend.
 
Maybe its because I made my living carrying concrete blocks, shoveling dirt, running jack hammers, cutting walls with demo saws, etc. all day every day for 30 years, but I just don't seem to have the problems with the electric grinders. Mine catches and jerks once in a while, but it has never gotten away from me. It is a toy compared to what I did for work.

Anyhow, sorry Dental Dart, that I got this thread into a grinder debate. I will stay out of it now.
 
Mopar Sam said:
Maybe its because I made my living carrying concrete blocks, shoveling dirt, running jack hammers, cutting walls with demo saws, etc. all day every day for 30 years, but I just don't seem to have the problems with the electric grinders. Mine catches and jerks once in a while, but it has never gotten away from me. It is a toy compared to what I did for work.

Anyhow, sorry Dental Dart, that I got this thread into a grinder debate. I will stay out of it now.
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Not really a debate on which type of grinder to use MS. DD is struggling to get the finish he wants and killing burrs. That’s 100% about speed control. If he can find a good controller for the electric grinder that will eliminate that issue and he can start making progress.

I’ve only used one speed controller that actually worked. It was huge and bulky. And, if you just wanted to speed up or slow down the grinder you had to stop and turn the knob. Then you would grind again for maybe 10 seconds and then stop again to change the speed again. It was a giant PITA because I can modulate the speed of the air grinder with the hand lever. Once I have it set with the regulator, I just use more or less throttle (as it were) on the grinder and I’m not stopping all the time.

DD is finding what I found a long time ago...that foot switch for a sewing machine isn’t sensitive enough to control the grinder. Like I said, all of them I tried were like grinding with a toggle switch.

This is why guys who try their hand at porting quit. It’s nasty, thankless work and finding a grinder/burr/speed/pressure that works for whoever is grinding is the hard part.

I’ll see if I can find the one speed controller I used that actually worked, as cumbersome as it was. LOLOLOLOLOLOLLOLOL I just remembered one other issue with it. I had that big pig sitting on the bench next to me because I got tired of bending down to change the thing, and I set the grinder down to move the head or something and bumped that big knob. I grabbed the grinder and didn’t know what I did. As soon as I switched the grinder on, it helicoptered the burr, was vibrating so hard I couldn’t slide the switch back to off and it was shaking my guts out. I finally threw the grinder on the bench and just unplugged it. After that, when I had to use that bugger I put it on the shelf below where I was grinding so I didn’t bump that thing again.

That sucked.
 
I borrowed a big *** single speed(f**kin fast) Makita like RAMM posted and it scared the bejeezus outta me. Needed to be able to fluctuate the rpm, so I use pneumatic. Control at your fingertips.
I'm a newbie to this, just my experience.
 
4spdragtop said:
I borrowed a big *** single speed(f**kin fast) Makita like RAMM posted and it scared the bejeezus outta me. Needed to be able to fluctuate the rpm, so I use pneumatic. Control at your fingertips.
I'm a newbie to this, just my experience.
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I only use short cutters in the Makita and I hold on to it and LEAN on it HARD for heavy and fast stock removal. I am also blessed with an above average grip strength and I can stall it out anytime I want. When I get tired I move to an air grinder and recover a bit before going back to the Makita.

You simply cannot stick a 6" shank bit in an electric die grinder--it will bend. With some skill you can start it against the port wall so you can keep it from achieving full rpm while under load--but this is not for a beginner. I have bent a few in my time--I cut em short and use them. J.Rob
 
If the only tool available for porting was something like those big Makita electric grinders........ I would no longer do any porting.

I’ve been using air grinders for way way too long to switch now.
 
PRH said:
If the only tool available for porting was something like those big Makita electric grinders........ I would no longer do any porting.

I’ve been using air grinders for way way too long to switch now.
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Naww you'd do something smart like hook it up to a dimmer switch. But yes I couldn't do it without air power. J.Rob
 
Wow I commend your efforts! things you are learning are somewhat of a lost art except for the old farts that hang around here LOL. when I ported my X heads I wore out two Chicago heavy duty electric grinders just cleaning up transitions pushrod pinch casting marks and focusing on exhaust ports.I had the same problem just didn't have enough compressor to support a good pneumatic tool. The good thing is once you get finished with those cast heads aluminum head will seem like a gift from heaven. Keep up the good work.
 
Naww you'd do something smart like hook it up to a dimmer switch.
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I really wouldn’t.

I bought a good compressor years ago, so I should be good until I call it quits.
 
PRH said:
I really wouldn’t.

I bought a good compressor years ago, so I should be good until I call it quits.
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Id love a better compressor. I got mine for free and it has never given me a problem for what I've used it for... one day I'd love a big *** shop sized compressor though
 
DentalDart said:
Id love a better compressor. I got mine for free and it has never given me a problem for what I've used it for... one day I'd love a big *** shop sized compressor though
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You'll get there Doc. You got a lot on your plate just now.
 
Bodyperson said:
You'll get there Doc. You got a lot on your plate just now.
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Can't wait to plate this up! This is my new apron my sister in law got me for bbq'ing

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Ok I got my cheapo burrs from Amazon today. They are 1/8 shank and like 3in long.. work in the flex shaft grinder just fine...

Got intake 2 ports almost done... pictures don't do them justice as it was getting dark out. Again, only place the burrs don't reach is the valve guide, so I'll use the 6in burrs and pneumatic for that.

I dont know how long the cheapo burrs will last but im sure ill get lots of practice with them on these heads. Between the small burrs and the large burrs I can really shape these things a lot better.

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DentalDart said:
Been reading the threads on porting.. watching videos... also got some heads to practice on before destroying my xheads on my car... Thanks aarcuda.

Has anyone watched the uncle Tony videos on YouTube? I like his basic talk to me I can understand what he is saying. He does have a valve seat video which I'll link, is this ok to do or a big no no? I can't do a machine shop run and Tony (asrcuda) said my valves looked fine, but should I do a day valve seat job like in the video as well?

I just got my burrs from Mcfaddendales (dang they were more than the grinder from Harbor Freight). So ill start messing around when I have time, school just started back up so most of my practice will get done on the weekend... hopefully I can get some good practicing in and get a little faster before taking my dart apart to port the x heads.



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Did a little more yesterday and about 1hr today. Only with the cordless drill today out back while the kids jumped on the trampoline. Yesterday I did a couple hours with the air pneumatic grinder, that thing does work, just a bit of stop and go so the tank has enough pressure.

They definitely are getting better. I tried to focus a little more on the valve guides, where it diverts into 2 directions around the guide.

All 4 ports and bowls are "roughly" the same size.

I did realize, at the spot where the burr is, there is a casting flaw in all 4 ports that I need to remove.

I also purchased another handpiece off Amazon that should be able to hold the 1/4in drill bits. That will make life easy

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Trying to figure out the best angle to get this little hump n bump out. I want it to be a smooth flow.

Should I take it out by sticking the burr through the port or should I come in through the bowl?

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yellow rose said:
However you can get to it is how you get to it. There isn’t a wrong way to do it. The worst that can happen is you kill a burr.
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Kill another burr... Just what I need to do lol. Ok I will try tonight or tomorrow... hopefully my new handpiece gets here before I get home tomorrow and I can try that one out.

What is the best thing to do in the exhaust ports? Open those up as well or just smooth them out?

After "porting" everything... do you have them flow tested for ***** and giggles?
 
If I remember correctly the exhaust doesnt get much work? Just some flashing removal, and minor floor work I think? Correct me if I'm wrong?
Keep up the good work, enjoying this.
 
OK now that i have read all 7 pages.
#1 That harbor freight electric die grinder is a total piece of sh!@%#$!^%$^&!!!!! with out a rpm controller you will NEVER get a long bur to live and you are going to get hurt.
#2 Running at about half speed it will work fine but vibrate the **** out of your hand.
#3, 1/4 and 3/8 and no bigger(Burs). Even a air die grinder you can get the long burs to helicoper. long burs = slower speed for control.
I never run a bur at full speed, unless i'm hogging something out(which i never do).........little by little i get the material removed and the shape i want.

I would get a box fan or some kind of fan blowing on that 5 HP compressor. there only like a 50% duty cyl and you can over heat the compressor and cause air to come out the compressor crank case vent..........ask me how i know!!!!

Your first port looked horrid!:p but so did did my first time with a die grinder:D and would be willing to guess, so did every on else, there first time.

Now with all that said you will get the larges jump in power with a good Valve job. At least a 3+ angle valve job.

My last advice is to leave the SSR Alone!(Short Side Radius ) The Water fall on the floor that drop in to the bowl/valve area.
Even with a flow bench you can completely destroy the air flow of the port and destroy the head( aka there is water underneath there as well)

As far as port matching, i have done it a lot, but wont be doing it anymore, just to make the ports match(aka matching to the gasket size). Cross section area must stay the same as it goes from manifold to head.
 
Cudafever said:
OK now that i have read all 7 pages.
#1 That harbor freight electric die grinder is a total piece of sh!@%#$!^%$^&!!!!! with out a rpm controller you will NEVER get a long bur to live and you are going to get hurt.
#2 Running at about half speed it will work fine but vibrate the **** out of your hand.
#3, 1/4 and 3/8 and no bigger(Burs). Even a air die grinder you can get the long burs to helicoper. long burs = slower speed for control.
I never run a bur at full speed, unless i'm hogging something out(which i never do).........little by little i get the material removed and the shape i want.

I would get a box fan or some kind of fan blowing on that 5 HP compressor. there only like a 50% duty cyl and you can over heat the compressor and cause air to come out the compressor crank case vent..........ask me how i know!!!!

Your first port looked horrid!:p but so did did my first time with a die grinder:D and would be willing to guess, so did every on else, there first time.

Now with all that said you will get the larges jump in power with a good Valve job. At least a 3+ angle valve job.

My last advice is to leave the SSR Alone!(Short Side Radius ) The Water fall on the floor that drop in to the bowl/valve area.
Even with a flow bench you can completely destroy the air flow of the port and destroy the head( aka there is water underneath there as well)

As far as port matching, i have done it a lot, but wont be doing it anymore, just to make the ports match(aka matching to the gasket size). Cross section area must stay the same as it goes from manifold to head.
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1. Yes I've pretty much stopped using the electric die grinder. To much speed and to little control. Most everything naw is being done with the smaller electric foredom knock off grinder and the hand drill. I cut down my burrs that I bent due to helicoptering and they are much more controllable in the hand drill and are actually working much better.

As far as the SSR and waterfall... thats where I'm wanting to take the little hump our right? As you can see, I worked on it some more tonight, for maybe 30 minutes. Just with the electric hand drill and I think it looks and feels much better. Its a much more smooth transition.

Yes the first port and bowl sucked... I may mess with it a touch more and see if I can clean it up. Just for ***** an giggles.

I agree with the valve job, when I do my "real" heads ill have a good valve job done on them. Right now just practicing on free 99 heads that were destined for the dump.

Now to just clean up the guide on this port.

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