You talked me into it. 727 to a 904

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Funny, I called Pro Trans a while back as well and he wanted to totally upsell me as well. He wouldn't even give me a straight out answer on the price. Was weird.

Don't get me wrong, I hear ALOT of good stuff about their transmissions and quality, but don't try to sell me a damn proflite for a low powered street car. It was funny because all the research I did on the web guys were using builds similar to mine and their stuff held up fine, but Dave made it sound like there was no way...Not a fan of places that try to oversell
 
True, I heard Dave does great work. But again..... There is NOTHING to building a Torqueflite transmission, a 6 year old Lego Builder could do it. WAY easier than building an engine is all I gotta say about that! Lol

First time I ever did one I tore it apart in less than an hour. I instantly put it back together in about 40 Minutes.
Then I went after the real rebuild. Clean up and total rebuild of new parts. Less than 2 hours total. Painted, done.

If someone did these for a living everyday....... Clean up and all under 1 hour's work blind folded.
 
Hmmm.. I have recommended a lot of people there never heard that of overselling. Maybe that's why my last trans lasted so long. LOL



Ray
 
3K is way too much $$ for one of these trans. I don't care what they did to it. Lol!


Tell that to a guy that is running a pro trans or anybody else's in their SS/AH car. Granted he does not need one of those.



Ray
 
Hmmm.. I have recommended a lot of people there never heard that of overselling. Maybe that's why my last trans lasted so long. LOL



Ray


Maybe some are just willing to pay...I am a cheapskate lol

Not saying their products are no good, as I am sure their reputation is built on quality...But I just didn't feel I needed a $3000 transmission in my car (which was actually slower when I had first called them), and so far I have proved my theory right
 
Tell that to a guy that is running a pro trans or anybody else's in their SS/AH car. Granted he does not need one of those.



Ray

Might be worth 3K+ to a guy running those NHRA classes and looking for every .01 or less.

For a street guy/bracket racer, not a chance that 3K trans is worth the money.
 
For a street trans with full roller bearings, deep pan and manual low band, reverse pattern valve body is 2000.00 from Pro Trans.



Ray
 
For a street trans with full roller bearings, deep pan and manual low band, reverse pattern valve body is 2000.00 from Pro Trans.



Ray

Parts for that Trans you are talking about is right at $ 400.00 , that valve body is only $180.00

So do it yourself for $580.00 and some labor. You get a bad *** converter and still save some $$ & no special tools required. If you have your 10 year old daughter do the labor... Well there you have it.
 
I just want to make sure that I am not shooting my self in the foot here with this Idea of a 727 to 904. As i can see the input shaft is the big problem so I am going to spend the extra 300 bucks and get that. Still looking for a good usable case right now. When I find one I will be on my way. Maddarts Recipe for the 904 I have all that on stand by ready to buy.

The way it is I don't worry about the input shaft with my mild 408 but I wish I had the extra coin for the hardened shaft so I wouldn't worry about spraying it later on which is something I'd like to do some day.

Do you need an entire core or just the main case? I have an extra case with the peripherals (servo's, all bolts, shift lever of your choice 4.2 or 5.0, etc) rear clutch carrier (3 disc), and some more stuff. Just don't have a complete trans. It's all disassembled so I could get the main case and tail housing in a box and put all the heavy items in a medium or large USPS flat rate box. If that'll do you any good PM me. Cleaning house so I'm giving deals on stuff.
 
Ok so I got two transmissions from my buddy, one is a 1988 and the other 1975. Tore them both apart today and here is what I found. So first the 1975. it has a four clutch front and rear.Aluminum four pinion sets first and second. But here is where it gets weird the sprag is different from 1975 to 1988. The 1975 is a pinned sprag and is way smaller then the 1988. Whats weird is that the 1988 sprag is about 1/3 bigger than the 1975. The 1988 is everything that i wanted, low ratio first and second, five plate front pack and four rear. So i am moving forward and this is what I got right now. I will post pictures as I go.
 
Ok so I got two transmissions from my buddy, one is a 1988 and the other 1975. Tore them both apart today and here is what I found. So first the 1975. it has a four clutch front and rear.Aluminum four pinion sets first and second. But here is where it gets weird the sprag is different from 1975 to 1988. The 1975 is a pinned sprag and is way smaller then the 1988. Whats weird is that the 1988 sprag is about 1/3 bigger than the 1975. The 1988 is everything that i wanted, low ratio first and second, five plate front pack and four rear. So i am moving forward and this is what I got right now. I will post pictures as I go.

It's not weird, Mopar (and every other company) made changes over the yrs that they felt improved them. The larger higher capacity sprague is one of the improvements. The more transmission work you do the more differences you'll find in them from year to year. Makes it tough sometimes finding parts

Is the 88 a lockup or non-lockup version?
 
It's not weird, Mopar (and every other company) made changes over the yrs that they felt improved them. The larger higher capacity sprague is one of the improvements. The more transmission work you do the more differences you'll find in them from year to year. Makes it tough sometimes finding parts

Is the 88 a lockup or non-lockup version?

Lock up, style. The valve body has the cross over tube and the input shaft is hollow.
 
Lock up, style. The valve body has the cross over tube and the input shaft is hollow.

I hope you plan on converting that to non-lockup or it probably won't live long in a trans brake application. 904 input shafts are the weak link and hollow ones are really weak. Plus they have a different spline count for the converter
 
IMO a trans swap from a 727 to a 904 is not worth it if you have a 727 already. Could probably lose 2 tenths (at the most from the swap) in ways much cheaper and easier than swapping a trans, and still have the strength of the 727...JMO

Wish I built a 727 instead of my 904...It has held up so far in my heavy *** car, but I worry about it constantly

This ^^^^^^

No way in hell would I pull a 727 for a 904. No way no how.
 
I am running a 727 with a manual valve body and I want to switch to a 904 with a trans brake. I want to try my luck at the 6.00 heads up class that they are running at our local tracks. I was told I could get a 904 with a pro brake from Kenny at PTC for a little over $1400.00 . I have not had very good luck bracket racing with my new motor all I do now is red light.So maybe I can cut a decent light on the .400 pro tree.
 
This ^^^^^^

No way in hell would I pull a 727 for a 904. No way no how.

Well I got a 727 for sale. Just rebuild seven passes ago. Roller rear from coan, bolt in sprage, all billet servos, billet strut, 4.2 lever, red clutches, ridged front and rear bands, and case is drilled for trans brake, brand new pump gears.
 
I hope you plan on converting that to non-lockup or it probably won't live long in a trans brake application. 904 input shafts are the weak link and hollow ones are really weak. Plus they have a different spline count for the converter

This is why I got a 75 also, so I can get rid of the lock up stuff.
 
those in search of "high end" 904 parts you might try and contact "David Dean" over at Moparts.... he's broken about anything you can break on a 904 and is moving on to a powerglide, so he may have some parts of interest.... and that was with his old mill. Believe he's gearing up for his W8/9 headed monster....

I have a 904 that has been rollered, lightened and sports a Tranzact non low band apply trans brake. We ran this behind our iron head 360. When we "stepped" up to our W5 project, I opted for the 727 as it was obviously the more "reliable" of the two and my dad was racing it at the time and felt it would be a better "set it....and forget it" choice. I'll be running that also with the W8 mill.

Pro Trans..... If I'm in Dave's shoes would "I" want to sell a "warmed up" 904 to a customer hitting it with drag radials and a shot of NOS here and there??.... uhhhh probably not. You build your trans with upgraded items here and there, and it breaks..... it's on you. You buy the same trans from Dave, break it..... you've broken your PRO TRANS.... Dave sells some pretty nice pieces and when you step up to the plate, you are doing so for reliability.... same as Chuck Lofgren who originally built my big block 727 and our race 904. I had the pleasure of meeting Dave a number of years ago. My trans had started to creep when the brake was applied. I had no idea who he was, but some west coast guys recommended him. Tore my trans down, boxed it up and met him at his shop one winter morning. We did a quick walk through what I had, he pointed out the issue, I had him add a rear roller support and machine my front drum for better sealing rings. Worked like a champ when he was done. He and his son Darren are good people in my book.
 
those in search of "high end" 904 parts you might try and contact "David Dean" over at Moparts.... he's broken about anything you can break on a 904 and is moving on to a powerglide, so he may have some parts of interest.... and that was with his old mill. Believe he's gearing up for his W8/9 headed monster....

I have a 904 that has been rollered, lightened and sports a Tranzact non low band apply trans brake. We ran this behind our iron head 360. When we "stepped" up to our W5 project, I opted for the 727 as it was obviously the more "reliable" of the two and my dad was racing it at the time and felt it would be a better "set it....and forget it" choice. I'll be running that also with the W8 mill.

Pro Trans..... If I'm in Dave's shoes would "I" want to sell a "warmed up" 904 to a customer hitting it with drag radials and a shot of NOS here and there??.... uhhhh probably not. You build your trans with upgraded items here and there, and it breaks..... it's on you. You buy the same trans from Dave, break it..... you've broken your PRO TRANS.... Dave sells some pretty nice pieces and when you step up to the plate, you are doing so for reliability.... same as Chuck Lofgren who originally built my big block 727 and our race 904. I had the pleasure of meeting Dave a number of years ago. My trans had started to creep when the brake was applied. I had no idea who he was, but some west coast guys recommended him. Tore my trans down, boxed it up and met him at his shop one winter morning. We did a quick walk through what I had, he pointed out the issue, I had him add a rear roller support and machine my front drum for better sealing rings. Worked like a champ when he was done. He and his son Darren are good people in my book.


Well said!!



Ray
 
Anyone know of a 1350 slip yoke for a 904 besides Mark Williams and/or inland enterprises? There has to be more out there than these two.
 
Anyone know of a 1350 slip yoke for a 904 besides Mark Williams and/or inland enterprises? There has to be more out there than these two.

I got mine from Mancini.... The caps are bolt on though not like the picture. It is Billet.

Driveshafts I get from Curtis Tatton. $225.00 Delivered to your door 3.5" or 4" with 1350 Spicer U Joints ready to go. He has guys throwing 1200 HP at them to the tires. He says has not broke one yet.

http://www.manciniracing.com/ma90413cosly.html
 
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