Zinc oil supplement

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This is all you’ll need.

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I substitute a quart of that with the Valvoline Synthetic I run in my D200, stock FT 2-bbl cam in that 360 so I figure that's enough zinc. I get them from Walmart pretty cheap but online might be better.

Duster gets Penn Grade 1 since the 360 in that is quite a bit hotter and is running stock stamped rockers with a .550" lift roller cam.

Either vehicle gets an oil change pretty much once a year or less depending on how much I'm driving them.
 
Good plan. I have been poking around and found a 6 bottle case for around $36 shipped. That's pretty cheap. I have been using Valvoline for years. Top quality stuff.
That’s a good way to buy it too, I was looking for it in a 5 quart. It ended up being a 20w-50, too thick.
 
I substitute a quart of that with the Valvoline Synthetic I run in my D200, stock FT 2-bbl cam in that 360 so I figure that's enough zinc. I get them from Walmart pretty cheap but online might be better.

Duster gets Penn Grade 1 since the 360 in that is quite a bit hotter and is running stock stamped rockers with a .550" lift roller cam.

Either vehicle gets an oil change pretty much once a year or less depending on how much I'm driving them.
I should’ve bought more at $5.88 a quart with it having a five year shelf life.
 
Zinc additive settling out is simply a myth. Once mixed, it's mixed.
I agree, unless we are talking extreme situations. found an old case of 10w40 in the corner of the garage ( probably there over 15 years ) . at the bottom of the bottles is a caramel colored sludge. might be able to get it resuspended if I put it in a paint shaker when it was warm.
 
$27 for 5 quarts at Wally's. Free shipping if you buy two. 1000+ ppm ZDDP. Meets all the high end euro specs for anti-wear, which aren't concerned with SAPS content. Fully formulated, so no guessing if your additive is doing more harm than good. Good for most all of our engines, except race engines with super high valve spring pressure flat tappets. Probably fine in most of them, too, but there are better, more expensive choices like RedLine, HPL, Driven, etc.

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Apologies but I really don't think that is the case...
they are not gonna waste money putting something in that can do no good job becasue of one of the other ingredients. they'd just save $1 per quart and not put it in in the first place

detergent is designed to keep particulate contamination suspended in the oil so that a good spin-on filter can remove it.

just like washing clothes..... the water looks dirty, the detergent kept the small contaminants suspended. only the big clods of mud and that dollop of ketchup you dumped on the front of your shirt are floating at the bottom.

a low detergent oil allows it all to sludge in the sump. The natural effect in a low or no detrgent oil is to allow it all to fall to the bottom, which is fine provided you set your pickup depth as per the manual. This was the standard when engines were low rpm things and turbos and cam variators etc didn't need to be oiled.
nothing wrong with this if you stick with this kind of oil.
However a swap to a higher detergent after years of low detergent oil will stir it all up and you brand new filter will be full of crap within 500 miles.

each oil has zddp package designed to work with the other additives in the oil.
Heat and friction causes the ZDDP, or components of it, to chemcially bond to the surfaces. i.e a bit of iron reacts with something in the ZDDP package to make a new compound on the surface of the part, that is slippy and protects the part. you can't see it, you can't taste it, you can't scratch it off with your thumb nail... chemistry happend.

it can be worn off, but the detergent doesn't wash it off.
same idea as leaded petrol and exhaust valve seats:
chemcial reaction occured at the seat and valve interface, that stopped the valve repeatedly welding istelf to the seat, that protection wore off, but it couldn't be washed off.

much like you can't wash off anodising on an aluminium part with water, but you can wear it off.
you can't wash rust off iron but you can grind it off
etc

too little ZDDP causes wear
too much ZDDP causes things to stick, it can mess with clearances, cause things to sieze, makes hydrulic lifter pistons sticky (never pump up) can cause lifters not to spin in bore etc etc.

I wiped my cam due to too little ZDDP could also be I wiped my cam due to too damn much ZDDP.

Adding an additive to an oil that has already been carefully formulated to do a specific job in the first place is a lottery..
you have no idea of the impact of the additive on all other constituents in the oil
cheap old style single weight mineral oil with an anchient spec...well ok but anything you can buy today....i'd be wary

you may end up with just the right amount of ZDDP but have totally screwed the viscocity modifiers
or converted a medium detergent oil to a low detergent oil.
but then again you might not have....whats in the additive?? (trade secret) over and above the zddp content?
whats in the oil.....Trade secret unless the ingredient in question has some kind of health impact or the SAE stipulate it must be on the label.

some additives i'm sure are good some are no more than a bottle of diesel with fairy dust in.

if you buy oil sensibly for your flat tappet 50+ year old engine
you probably won't have an issue.

use the additive with cheap running in oil for break in, its a basic mineral oil, by all means add the zddp bottle of magic, its in there for 20 minutes + 500 miles while everything gets its last and most important polish.....

...then just switch to something good with the right formulation for the rest of the life of the engine.

Dave
No.
I’m taking the advice of a trusted engine builder and machinist that makes his entire living from high performance engines. I wouldn’t just abandon his opinions for some random guy in a forum.
 
I agree, unless we are talking extreme situations. found an old case of 10w40 in the corner of the garage ( probably there over 15 years ) . at the bottom of the bottles is a caramel colored sludge. might be able to get it resuspended if I put it in a paint shaker when it was warm.
I feel certain you could. Oil never goes bad. It just loses its additive effectiveness. I had a case of 5x20 I got for Kitty's Escape a while back that was "remanufactured" oil. There's a place in Macon that does it. Perfectly fine. The price was pretty close to what I can get it new, so I didn't bother again. They offer it really cheap in larger quantities.
 
I substitute a quart of that with the Valvoline Synthetic I run in my D200, stock FT 2-bbl cam in that 360 so I figure that's enough zinc. I get them from Walmart pretty cheap but online might be better.

Duster gets Penn Grade 1 since the 360 in that is quite a bit hotter and is running stock stamped rockers with a .550" lift roller cam.

Either vehicle gets an oil change pretty much once a year or less depending on how much I'm driving them.
Wow! You run stock stamped non adjustable rockers with a roller cam?! How do you do it without geometry issues.
 
Many classic car owners use a diesel-rated oil (CJ) because some brands have high-zinc. Otherwise, the main difference is more detergents to better suspend the carbon which is much more in a diesel from the high compression and blowby.
 
Wow! You run stock stamped non adjustable rockers with a roller cam?! How do you do it without geometry issues.

Well it wasn't exactly optimized lol, it's what I had and could afford at the time I put it together. I do intend to upgrade to roller rockers and a B3RE geometry kit. The engine is a 5.9L Magnum short block with factory lifters and LA-based Edelbrock heads with stock LA shaft rockers.
 
The product I have been using for the last 15 years has been discontinued.
What would you suggest to add zinc when I do my oil changes?
Do you know how much is in the oil already, what other additives are in the oil and for that oil and additive mix what the required extra zinc may be needed. You can put too much in which starts things going backwards. Just purchase an oil with what is required. Shell Rotella T4 which is only available in 15W-40 brew. Amzoil's Z-Rod oils are formulated for flat tappet older engines that are not required to have cats. This has a few weights available. Using one of these oils you can forget about an additive and whether you put the correct amount in.
 
I feel certain you could. Oil never goes bad. It just loses its additive effectiveness. I had a case of 5x20 I got for Kitty's Escape a while back that was "remanufactured" oil. There's a place in Macon that does it. Perfectly fine. The price was pretty close to what I can get it new, so I didn't bother again. They offer it really cheap in larger quantities.
Remanufactured is really what it says. Pretty much a cracking tower process on a smaller scale that removes all impurities. Re refined would be the term. The base oil stock stays good and a new additive package is mixed in.
Years ago the Castrol GTX oil had a very distinctive odour. I got sent up to one of the if not first facilities at Fort McMurray for 2 weeks. They refined oil and used it in their equipement. Same distinctive odour. The used oils got recycled and run through the refining process again.
 
Remanufactured is really what it says. Pretty much a cracking tower process on a smaller scale that removes all impurities. Re refined would be the term. The base oil stock stays good and a new additive package is mixed in.
Years ago the Castrol GTX oil had a very distinctive odour. I got sent up to one of the if not first facilities at Fort McMurray for 2 weeks. They refined oil and used it in their equipement. Same distinctive odour. The used oils got recycled and run through the refining process again.
That is IF the use oils are recycled properly. We recycle. The problem is, THEY are not in a LOT of cases. There was just a really big media story on just this very thing. Lots of people are recycling trying to do the right thing and those that are actually supposed to be doing the recycling are not. The percentage was something over 75% of recyclables that were not being recycled, but being shuttled to landfills instead. It was pretty shocking. It pissed Kitty OFF. She said "screw all this trouble", but I told her no, we're still gonna do our part. It's not any harder than making the regular garbage run. We just separate recyclables. What happens after that, we cannot help.
 
That is IF the use oils are recycled properly. We recycle. The problem is, THEY are not in a LOT of cases. There was just a really big media story on just this very thing. Lots of people are recycling trying to do the right thing and those that are actually supposed to be doing the recycling are not. The percentage was something over 75% of recyclables that were not being recycled, but being shuttled to landfills instead. It was pretty shocking. It pissed Kitty OFF. She said "screw all this trouble", but I told her no, we're still gonna do our part. It's not any harder than making the regular garbage run. We just separate recyclables. What happens after that, we cannot help.
Exactly. I have to take my used oils to the landfill where they have a collection tank. Some company comes and sucks it out periodically. They also collect from the shops. The used should go to a refinery and be added to its feed stocks to do it properly. Higher costs undoubtedly, but part of cleaning up.
All this EV noise is mostly smoke and mirrors added to road apples. Converting to natural gas at least as a cleaner burning option for now would be better. There is a trial program here in Alberta with one truck fleet running diesels converted to run on natural gas and a number of fuel depots for them. No pig piss exhaust treatment required either.
I save my used oils in 4l and 5l plastic jugs and then when driving past the landfill I pull in and dump them into the tank. Could just drop off the full jugs and they will dump them, but I take the washer fluid jugs in for recycle as "clean" rather than a coat of old oil in them. Keep refilling the oily ones with the old oil.
 
Exactly. I have to take my used oils to the landfill where they have a collection tank. Some company comes and sucks it out periodically. They also collect from the shops. The used should go to a refinery and be added to its feed stocks to do it properly. Higher costs undoubtedly, but part of cleaning up.
All this EV noise is mostly smoke and mirrors added to road apples. Converting to natural gas at least as a cleaner burning option for now would be better. There is a trial program here in Alberta with one truck fleet running diesels converted to run on natural gas and a number of fuel depots for them. No pig piss exhaust treatment required either.
Yup. It's kinda non transparent what happens to it after it leaves our hands and should not be. How do we really know WHERE it goes after the collection truck sucks it up? I have zero issue with trying to be "more green" and recycling. I think it's right and right headed. I draw the line though at being pushed into one form of energy. I'll stop right there, because I want this to stay in general.
 
The oil is not separated either, synthetic and regular oil in one tank. I really don't know if that makes a difference? Does it even matter?
 
The oil is not separated either, synthetic and regular oil in one tank. I really don't know if that makes a difference? Does it even matter?
Our recyling center takes ALL petroleum based in one tank. As long as there's no water or coolant mixed in.
 
All this stated is why I suggested Amsoil products like hot rod oil to be specific. Its scientificly formulated for all additives to work in unison and is independently tested to prove its a superior product.

Yeah, it’s expensive,but when changed at recommended extended oil change levels, it becomes cost effective.

I was reluctant at their claims, so I had it tested by the company that tests oil for over the road truckers multiple times. Their oil change intervals turned out to be spot on.

By the way, their oil filters are made by wix to their specifications and are also a superior product.
 
In the Seattle area all used oil at Autozone and Orileys get sent to be mixed with BUNKER FUEL oil for the large ships. Sounds good as it is being reused. But the after burnt sludge is dumped overboad while at deep sea.
 
In my county, we just place a 1 gal just labeled "oil" beside the weekly trash bin pickup. Beats going to Autozone and dealing with their fuss like "tank is full" or "your oil is too ugly". I hope the county at least recycles the plastic since many uses like outdoor deck planks which command high prices. But I too have read that much just ends up in the landfill with no sorting. My area isn't nice about e-waste, requiring hauling it to out of the way places. They should run a once per year pickup at the curb.
 
I add 5 ounces of "Oil Extreme" to my oils. It has a huge amount of microscopic Calcium Carbonate and a TBN of 320. Most oils TBN is in the 10 to 20 range.

David Visard uses it in his slider cam engines....

Spendy but it has boosted my MPG from 22 MPG to 26 MPG in my Subaru Outback XT turbo.
 
The tool and die shop I worked for(I’m retired) recycled way oil in a purpose built commercially sold recycler. All it was is a tank that heats the oil to rid it of moisture and ran through a fine micron filter suspended at the top of the tank which aireates it as it sprays to the bottom of the tank.

The problem is that it is mixed with minor amounts of coolant, cutting fluids and hydraulic oil which after time jellies and creates sludge. Also when the container of the tank farm had recycled oil in it and container was just about empty, you could see foreign material in the oil.

Buy recycled Motor oil? Not in my car.
 
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