pictures of pedal assemblies 340 vs. others

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Oldmanmopar

Oldmanmopar

Going left turning right
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the pedal assembly on the left is from a 1971 Duster 225 3spd same as 318 .The one on the right 1971 duster 340 4spd. Note the different springs and pin to pin spread. The spring on the 340 is so heavy they added a brace.The later pedals with all 5 1/4 pin to pin and small spring Have a different brake pedal. The bar is turned sidways for impact protection. That is 73 and later. The early cars did have different different assemblies. and if not used with the correct components. will cause engagement and disingagment problems . Those of you who think there trans doesn't shift properly this is more than likely the culpret. I have alot of assemblies from different years. They changed alot more than this on early and later 4 spd. cars but this is what alot of concern is now. Hope this answers anyones questions as every other person has a different opinion. Mopar muscle ran a tech artical on this. They show you how to modify your pin to pin so it will work properly with a 10.5 clutch assembly. If needed I can scan it in and post it. If you have the small spring a diaphram will work without removing it if you keep the smaller spread. But put some ponies in front of it and tires behind it and let me know how it works then. Diaphram clutch No spring with large spread. Borg&Beck finger clutch large spring with large spread. Small spread will get you by but you will have problems with premature wear on the bearing or clutch. And disingagement when using the correct fork.
 

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So what about 64 valiants, does it make a difference in that pedals throw. I am running the 10.5 set up with a kevlar disc and 3000lbs pressure plate, three finger style. Would I benefit from reinstalling the the spring or benefit from the longer pedal throw?
 
64X2 said:
So what about 64 valiants, does it make a difference in that pedals throw. I am running the 10.5 set up with a kevlar disc and 3000lbs pressure plate, three finger style. Would I benefit from reinstalling the the spring or benefit from the longer pedal throw?
Click to expand...
I really don't know anything about that year. You would have to figure out the geometry from one to the other meaning years 67 verses 66 and back. I only collected 67 -76 cars and parts or I could compare them. I do know they had a different bell and fork.
 
I have a 71 340 duster that was changed from auto to 4 spd. in 1974 They used all new parts. They installed a 1973 pedal still has the part tag on it. You could not pull a gear with this car if your life depended on it. My son destroyed two transmisions before we figured it out. If you have the short throw pedal . all you need to do is add 3/4 to the arm side and run a diaphram clutch since you won't have the spring. Or start doing leg lifts with the left leg. The artical on this is in Mopar Muscle Dec.2010 Tech you need to know (A-Body clutch pedal fix)
 
Really this is Great info, this is just what I need to know, for when I make this change. Hey Oldmanmopar any of those pedals for sale :).

Brad
 
Oldmanmopar said:
the pedal assembly on the left is from a 1971 Duster 225 3spd same as 318 .The one on the right 1971 duster 340 4spd. Note the different springs and pin to pin spread. The spring on the 340 is so heavy they added a brace.The later pedals with all 5 1/4 pin to pin and small spring Have a different brake pedal. The bar is turned sidways for impact protection. That is 73 and later. The early cars did have different different assemblies. and if not used with the correct components. will cause engagement and disingagment problems . Those of you who think there trans doesn't shift properly this is more than likely the culpret. I have alot of assemblies from different years. They changed alot more than this on early and later 4 spd. cars but this is what alot of concern is now. Hope this answers anyones questions as every other person has a different opinion. Mopar muscle ran a tech artical on this. They show you how to modify your pin to pin so it will work properly with a 10.5 clutch assembly. If needed I can scan it in and post it. If you have the small spring a diaphram will work without removing it if you keep the smaller spread. But put some ponies in front of it and tires behind it and let me know how it works then. Diaphram clutch No spring with large spread. Borg&Beck finger clutch large spring with large spread. Small spread will get you by but you will have problems with premature wear on the bearing or clutch. And disingagement when using the correct fork.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, good to know.

But I still have no idea what you are talking about with the statement in bold because I have a built 340 in front of it rev' 7 and have a built 410 stroker as well that shifted great 6500+rpm in front of the same rig.
I run no return spring either with about 1 1/2 of free travel before disengagement.
I still wonder if guys just tightened up the free play some at the fork rod, if that would fix this.

I believe all you say but the text in bold, cause my setup disproves that.
So I guess i'm letting you know that it works awesome.
 
I have had no problems with my set up, and converted my car from a three on the tree to a four on the floor over ten years ago, when brewer first came out with the conversion to a bigger bellhousing. I am using a B-body clutch fork, 68 10.5 aluminum bellhousing, Brewer's Z-bar and linkage set up, with a OD trans, A-904 automatic drive shaft from a Volare all in a 64 A-body...got to love Ma Mopar..My question was more of curiousity on the subject, as there is a lot of geometry involved in the set up...thanks for the info..cool

Oldmanmopar said:
I really don't know anything about that year. You would have to figure out the geometry from one to the other meaning years 67 verses 66 and back. I only collected 67 -76 cars and parts or I could compare them. I do know they had a different bell and fork.
Click to expand...
 
I just went outside and measured the pin distance on my orginal #'s matching 1970 340 4spd duster
the pin spread is 5 1/4, the spring is longer [but compared to what, my other car is not here to compare] and I see no reinforcement plate.
 
I am not an engineer by any means. What I can tell you is I have owned and worked on alot of a-bodies 67-76. What I have seen is there are definatetly a difference in the pedal assemblies. All 73 and up I dismantled have had a 5 1/4 pin spread they are hear. All a-bodies before 72 had Both 6 and 5 1/4. When I was stripping these cars I never noticed the difference. But I have several here that show there was a difference. The set I have here with the 6 inch spread I just took out of a 1971 duster 340.The other was out of a 71 225 six. I have plenty of 4 spd. set ups here complete and I know what I pulled them from they are all marked. They were not drivers that could have been repaired or replaced over the years. They were barn finds that were sitting since the 70's without the motors or they were smashed or rotted. The pedals shown came out of cars that just left here. The 340 car's last inspection was 1974. The 6 was bought out of a bone yard and I had to chop trees to get it out.( I needed the roof and 71 is on its own.) I also have a 71 340 4spd Demon here right now that has a 6 inch spread . What you all should do is get the December 2010 issue of Mopar Muscle Magazine. It will explain this better and you might get it. Some will use this info and some will try to prove it wrong as always. Otherwise I really don't care what anyone thinks.It was just a FYI . One thing I found on forums is that there will always be someone who says your wrong. If I were to say my car has round wheels . Somebody would say they have an original and their wheels came square. Look at the pictures they speak fo themselves. Read the artical in the magazines.
 
Well know that I'm not saing you are necessarily wrong, I just question some of the details and consistencies.

I am going to get the pedal # off of the duster, that should say something about this.
 
Can you tell me if I can see the number on the assembly without removing it?


This car sat in a driveway for over 25 years, the assembly is the same factoy color as the floor pans and the rest, just a lil rusty

you know what I remember the other set had no plate and had torn the bracket, I had to weld a skin on it.
 
I have alot of pedal assemblies none have any trace of paint. I believe the complete bodies were painted before any parts were applied other then body panels. Everything on the 2 pedal assemblies are identical. Except for the clutch pedal the spring and the brace. You can take the the pedals and parts and switch them out. even the bolt holes in the pedal housings are there. I don't see any numbers. My duster in the garage has part number tags but the parts were purchaced at the dealer. I have other pedals out of 68 and 69 they do not have the start depresion switch. 70 and up do. snap a pic of yours.
 
My bad, they just looked the same color.
Thanks for lookin into this, if you see anything odd, let me know.
 

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I am trying to scan and paste the mag. artical for you all to read. It is a tech artical by Herb McCandless. ( A CLUTCHING RESULT)correcting a-body shifting problems. If I can't Ill have my daughter retype it and I'll just give you the pics separate. I am a one finger typer.
 
The article can say all it wants...but whats it worth?
They are not mopar or the ones who built these originally.
We know how certain plants did things differently and that mag articles can contradict each other, or try and fill the blanks with incorrect 'majority seen' info.

What a magazines says does not change whats in front of my own eyes.
67valiant 100, are yours from a 340 car or ?
Sounds like you have another example.
 
Wild & Crazy: You have the same clutch setup as my matching number 1970 340 Duster. If you look at the parts manuals you will see that ALL 1970 Dusters had clutch pedal part number 3467082. In 1971, the Dusters EXCEPT the 340 also had part number 3467082. But the 1971- 340 had part number 3467987. This is why Oldmanmopar's picture of his 71 340 setup is different looking (for the 340) than ours. But what he is saying is the 318 is actually all the same for 1970. Hope this clears this up a bit.
 
A340 said:
Wild & Crazy: You have the same clutch setup as my matching number 1970 340 Duster. If you look at the parts manuals you will see that ALL 1970 Dusters had clutch pedal part number 3467082. In 1971, the Dusters EXCEPT the 340 also had part number 3467082. But the 1971- 340 had part number 3467987. This is why Oldmanmopar's picture of his 71 340 setup is different looking (for the 340) than ours. But what he is saying is the 318 is actually all the same for 1970. Hope this clears this up a bit.
Click to expand...

So in 1970, all pedals for slant/318/340 were the same, right?

The picture the article painted to me was that all 340 cars despite year received the reinforcement bracketed 6'' spread pedal set, Which they do not.

And what about 1967?
I will shoot pics of that one too= / w/3 on the tree
 
So in 1970, all pedals for slant/318/340 were the same, right?

According to the 1970 Parts manual. All are the same number.
 
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