pictures of pedal assemblies 340 vs. others

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Tranny question for you. I am new to the 4 speed. It seems when I shift that I have a bit of a stiff spot between gears. when I shift from one gear to another and pass through nuetral its a bit stiff there. I have to have a small pause between gears. Are these trannys and shifters supposed to be that tight between gears? Thanks
 
Hi, you really should start a new thread for yourself, but that's ok, bumping this thread isn't a bad idea


You have any trouble getting into reverse, IE does it tend to grind a lot?

How about low gear from a standstill, you push in the clutch, and mash it into low, how does that act?

This SOUNDS like a clutch that is not releasing clean, but WAIT there's more..................

At higher RPM, most any performance clutch, even factory, have centrifugal weights which increase clutch pressure. This means that there is more strain on the linkage to release the clutch cleanly

So if something is rusty, bending, starting to fatigue and break in the linkage, or if the linkage is a "little short" the pressure plate might not be releasing cleanly

IN ADDITION I fought a problem at the very end of my Navy enlistment, and did not properly have time to get into the problem (Other things going on)

WHAT TURNED OUT to be my problem is that the clutch disc had shed tiny bits of, well, "clutch disc" and these pieces of lining material had LODGED between the pressure plate and the clutch cover. So when the pressure plate released, it JAMMED against these pieces of disc and would not move far enough to release the clutch

(I could shift the thing JUST as fast WITHOUT the clutch. It went 11.80 at Carlsbad using 2, 3, 4 gears, and shifting with no clutch)
 
No problem with reverse however 2nd I can get a grind now and then. It mostly just feels stiff. I cant freely go from gear to gear without hitting that stiff spot between gears. I also notice it does not like down shifting even when I am at a speed that is below a comfortable speed for that gear. It just refuses to go until I am at a much lower speed. Everything on the car is new form a recent bottom up resto. being new to the 4 speed I am not familiar with what a perfect operating A833 should feel like. Is there adjustment options in the hurst shifter mech itself?
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I have a 71 340 duster that was changed from auto to 4 spd. in 1974 They used all new parts. They installed a 1973 pedal still has the part tag on it. You could not pull a gear with this car if your life depended on it. My son destroyed two transmisions before we figured it out. If you have the short throw pedal . all you need to do is add 3/4 to the arm side and run a diaphram clutch since you won't have the spring. Or start doing leg lifts with the left leg. The artical on this is in Mopar Muscle Dec.2010 Tech you need to know (A-Body clutch pedal fix)
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This is really interesting, because I bought a 69 Dart 340 recently and the clutch pedal is unbelievabley strong! Takes a lot of consentration to let it out easy! Not knowing anything about Dodge 4 speed pedals etc I've been trying to figure out what to do to lighten up on it. It's an original 4 speed car so I would imagine the pedals are the stock ones that came in it. :???:
 
emnestor said:
No problem with reverse however 2nd I can get a grind now and then. It mostly just feels stiff. I cant freely go from gear to gear without hitting that stiff spot between gears. I also notice it does not like down shifting even when I am at a speed that is below a comfortable speed for that gear. It just refuses to go until I am at a much lower speed. Everything on the car is new form a recent bottom up resto. being new to the 4 speed I am not familiar with what a perfect operating A833 should feel like. Is there adjustment options in the hurst shifter mech itself?
Click to expand...

If the shifter is new or old get some moly grease and crawl under there and lube it. Take off silver access plate and get to greasing. Don't ask how I know new hurst shifters are NOT lubed well enough lol
 
In the old DC manuals they suggest adding 0.75 " to the arm to the z bar as to accomplish a similar effect . They didn`t specify which pedal system 5.25' or 6 ' so I assumed both would benefit from the longer arm . I modified a 68 318 set of pedals ...
 
scottmd said:
In the old DC manuals they suggest adding 0.75 " to the arm to the z bar as to accomplish a similar effect . They didn`t specify which pedal system 5.25' or 6 ' so I assumed both would benefit from the longer arm . I modified a 68 318 set of pedals ...
Click to expand...
I assume that adding this to either arm ( the one to the clutch fork or the one to the clutch rod) would work, or does it have to be on a certain one? Thanks!
 
The only part you can Change the lenghth of without Messing with the location of the pivot points is the Pin spread.

Changing the length of the Z-bar lever that pushes on the adjustment rod will stiffen the pedal if made longer or easier if made shorter. BUT! this will wear Parts by pushing on the fork at the wrong angle.

Sure it will work but for how long? Changing the pin spread is really the only way to change the Geometry without affecting the operation of other parts that would cause eccesive wear. Been there done that and learned the hard way. One of the reasons I started this thread.
 
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