Let's get this slant turbo project started. 71 Dart

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CichliDart

CichliDart

Well, where is it now?
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SF East Bay, Antioch CA.
I was doing a 5.7 swap, but the seller took the money and never shipped. I just got a refund and looked around and I think I have a good start for a 225 turbo project.

I bought a 71 Swinger about 6 months ago and it was sitting waiting for that dreaded 8 cylinder swap when the above happened.

So the car is a manual three speed on the tree with a 7 1/4 rear end, tiny drum brakes, bench seat, radio delete car. It came with electronic ignition.

Last year I picked up an 833 overdrive trans and linkage/shifter from a slant car. Just bought the bellhousing a couple nights ago to do the swap from 3 to 4 speed. Bought the 4 speed floor hump six months ago. Have much of what I need for a front brake disk swap to 11.75. Still hunting for rear disk swap. Have an 8 3/4 housing and axles, 3:23 pumpkin, but am now on the look out for highway gears.

I have a super six 2 bbl intake, a carter and a holley carb that came with them, matching exhaust manifold. Passed on a 4 bbl intake and now wish I had bought it, will keep my eyes out for another one as well as a small holley 4bbl.

I have an MSD 6BTM on the way.

I want to do "The Pishta"! :cheers:

I just got the 2.5" 4 degree U pipe from Summit last night.

I have been poring over the the Forced induction section this last week and will keep reading it from oldest to newest until I have at least skimmed all of them.

Have been looking at carb hats, looking at 2300 holley carbs.

Could really use some help on what size or particular model Turbo to use :prayer:.

Would like to eventually make this fuel injected and am amazed at the work Pishta has been doing with fuel injection design and intake design. Other setups out there are also amazing. I had a 67 dart slant in the past that I supersixed and it had good top end but gutless lower end. I always wanted to supercharge it or turbo it. Thought up lots of intake designs and it is great to see people have done so much more than I imagined.

Any turbo sites, advice on models, or great prices out there?

Thanks FABO !
 
Don't have specific advise, Matt Cramer from Megasquirt has a turbo slant I THINK
 
Went over to my house Sunday and found my 67 slant six. Found a spare supersix intake but could not find the spare super six exhaust manifold. Must have been tossed out in the move. Those intake ports are sure tiny, need to modify those or get an adapter to mount a 2300 Holley on. Unless I stumble across a 4bbl intake while shopping for other parts. Love to get one of those Aussie 4 barrel intakes but a bit pricey for my blood! Also I think for a low buck turbo a stock 2 bbl will work for now.
 
Im doing the same project now with my 76 Feather Duster. The first turbo will be a mitsubishi from a 2.5 turbo caravan I just parted out. The second turbo will be a TII from a Shelby GLHS charger. The race turbo will be a garret GT35 DBB once I completed my Megasquirt 3 fuel injection kit. Im using an offenhouser twin carb manifold with 2 48mm throtel bodies. You need to check out this install first he lays it all out easy as pie.
I will send you the link in the morning its on my other computor.The intake was 385 and comes with a linkage kit i will mill and drill for injector bungs and weld them in doing my mock up on a spare 225 in my garage.
 
Thanks for the links.

So are you putting twin turbos on the twin carb manifold? Or one into two? I save the link for the twin carb intake in case I need one some day. Hard to find parts for these sometimes.

I read through the install and it looks like a great low buck approach with proven results :cheers:

I need to make up my mind on several things before I start. Or I may do this in stages, start with the 2bbl intake with a 2bbl holley. If I succeed in not blowing things up move up to a 4 bbl setup or fuel injection. I need a day to sit back without interupptions at home or work to read up on DIY EFI as well as properly size turbo.
Thanks!

Mike


amoparacer said:
Im doing the same project now with my 76 Feather Duster. The first turbo will be a mitsubishi from a 2.5 turbo caravan I just parted out. The second turbo will be a TII from a Shelby GLHS charger. The race turbo will be a garret GT35 DBB once I completed my Megasquirt 3 fuel injection kit. Im using an offenhouser twin carb manifold with 2 48mm throtel bodies. You need to check out this install first he lays it all out easy as pie.
I will send you the link in the morning its on my other computor.The intake was 385 and comes with a linkage kit i will mill and drill for injector bungs and weld them in doing my mock up on a spare 225 in my garage.
Click to expand...
 
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yother-Mopar-Slant-6-2-thick-Steel-Honing-Torque-plate-/141140838604?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20dca648cc"]Yother Mopar Slant 6 2 034 Thick Steel Honing Torque Plate | eBay[/ame]

Honing plate for slant sixes. A bit out of my price range, maybe someone here can use it.
 
CichliDart said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yother-Mopa...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20dca648cc

Honing plate for slant sixes. A bit out of my price range, maybe someone here can use it.
Click to expand...

Given the robust nature of a slant six block, and the extra-thick deck and cylinder walls those blocks have, I wonder just how effective a honing plate would be on one of these engines?

I am wondering if torquing down the head would distort the block enough to make the use of a honing plate worthwhile...

Just sayin'... especially, if the block was only minimally bored (say, .060")
 
CichliDart said:
I was doing a 5.7 swap, but the seller took the money and never shipped. I just got a refund and looked around and I think I have a good start for a 225 turbo project.

I want to do "The Pishta"! :cheers:

I just got the 2.5" 4 degree U pipe from Summit last night.

I have been poring over the the Forced induction section this last week and will keep reading it from oldest to newest until I have at least skimmed all of them.

Have been looking at carb hats, looking at 2300 holley carbs.

Could really use some help on what size or particular model Turbo to use :prayer:.


Any turbo sites, advice on models, or great prices out there?

Thanks FABO !
Click to expand...

I applaud your decision to go with the turbo slant six over the small block swap. I don't think you'll regret it! Also, your decision to use the "Pishta" pipe; a great decision!!!

You are off to a great start with the attitude you have and the progress you have made so far. This will not be quick nor easy, but will pay giant dividends once it's operational.

I read your intentions and see no reason why your game plan, as presented here, won't work, with just a couple of modifications.

You asked for input, and this is an excellent forum for information, with lots of experienced slant six posters who are willing to help and to share their expertise.

My own experience is as a relative newbie, so take what I say with that in mind; I am no expert, and have learned what I know about all this mainly from reading the notes on this and other bulletin boards over the last four or five years, Our own project car (see avatar) is a turbo 225 and has yet to see the drag strip, but is ready for some test and tune sessions when the weather permits.

My opinion (and, bear in mind, this is only my OPINION... nothing more) is based on what I have seen and learned on this board and on the other slant six.org site.

So, act accordingly... none of this is etched in stone.

First off, you probably don't know that a turbo slant six is a very different animal in this respect: These engines perform their best when "held back," like a "high-gear-only" fuel motor in a TF dragster. That is, they LIKE axle ratios in the 2.00's, not 4.56s... The really good running slant six turbo cars use 2.76:`1 gears on the drag strip. The bonus of that is, they are geared for both the highway AND the drag strip with a 2.76... making for no necessity to ever change the axle ratio... ever. This allows you to use an 8.25" unit out of a late A-body and not worry about outfitting a more expensive 8.75", drop-out housing. I know you already have one but you won't need it. You can find an 8.25" with highway gears in a junk yard and bolt it in, instead... lighter and cheaper.

This will make unnecessary, the need for an overdrive unit. You'll already have a great highway gear!

Turbocharged slant sixes make ungodly amounts of torque... ungodly!

This makes finding a (slant six) clutch that will hold all that twist a difficult proposition. Also, the engines tend to be happier when hooked to an automatic, and the slant six automatic happens to be a 904, which is one of the all-around BEST 3-speed automatics ever to go down the pike. Do yourself a huge favor and hook that torque-monster up to a 904 with a shift-kit and you won't be sorry. Remember; no overdrive is necessary!!!

That is my BEST advice...

Next, I think the 2300 2-barrel Holley carb option is a great idea, on a super six intake manifold. Cheap, easy-to-find, and probably the best carburetion idea for a street/strip car like you want to end up with. I would avoid multiple carbs on this project as an unnecessary complication, having no real benefit.

I really like your MSD BTM idea.... should work well for you. I have one on my 360Maagnum/Vortech car and it has always performed flawlessly. I use it with an MSD Blaster II coil.

This setup you describe, if you get a water/alcohol-injection unit should allow you to run pump gas with 10-12 pounds of boost on the street. That will give you somewhere around 300 horsepower, I think, which should put your car into the low 13's. That's a whale of a lot faster than a stock 340...

This, like I said, won't be easy, but is the most fun you can imagine, once it's finished...

Good luck, and keep us informed!!!
 

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for the feed back!
I have been poring over your build and many other build threads on here and the information and inspiration is great! Love that header you guys built! Sure wish that was a production piece as I would love to have one!

Bill Dedman said:
I applaud your decision to go with the turbo slant six over the small block swap. I don't think you'll regret it! Also, your decision to use the "Pishta" pipe; a great decision!!!

You are off to a great start with the attitude you have and the progress you have made so far. This will not be quick nor easy, but will pay giant dividends once it's operational.

I read your intentions and see no reason why your game plan, as presented here, won't work, with just a couple of modifications.

You asked for input, and this is an excellent forum for information, with lots of experienced slant six posters who are willing to help and to share their expertise.

My own experience is as a relative newbie, so take what I say with that in mind; I am no expert, and have learned what I know about all this mainly from reading the notes on this and other bulletin boards over the last four or five years, Our own project car (see avatar) is a turbo 225 and has yet to see the drag strip, but is ready for some test and tune sessions when the weather permits.

My opinion (and, bear in mind, this is only my OPINION... nothing more) is based on what I have seen and learned on this board and on the other slant six.org site.

So, act accordingly... none of this is etched in stone.

First off, you probably don't know that a turbo slant six is a very different animal in this respect: These engines perform their best when "held back," like a "high-gear-only" fuel motor in a TF dragster. That is, they LIKE axle ratios in the 2.00's, not 4.56s... The really good running slant six turbo cars use 2.76:`1 gears on the drag strip. The bonus of that is, they are geared for both the highway AND the drag strip with a 2.76... making for no necessity to ever change the axle ratio... ever. This allows you to use an 8.25" unit out of a late A-body and not worry about outfitting a more expensive 8.75", drop-out housing. I know you already have one but you won't need it. You can find an 8.25" with highway gears in a junk yard and bolt it in, instead... lighter and cheaper.

This will make unnecessary, the need for an overdrive unit. You'll already have a great highway gear!
Click to expand...

I will definitely keep my eyes peeled for an 8 1/4 diff. I had one years ago but my dear old dad seems to have a bad habit of throwing away my car rearends. I think he is up to about 4 that he has sent off to the scrap yard. I thought that once he moved into my place that would stop. :banghead:

I do like going to the wrecking yards so this is another excuse. Bonus to hear that they often come with the highway gears!

Turbocharged slant sixes make ungodly amounts of torque... ungodly!

This makes finding a (slant six) clutch that will hold all that twist a difficult proposition. Also, the engines tend to be happier when hooked to an automatic, and the slant six automatic happens to be a 904, which is one of the all-around BEST 3-speed automatics ever to go down the pike. Do yourself a huge favor and hook that torque-monster up to a 904 with a shift-kit and you won't be sorry. Remember; no overdrive is necessary!!!

That is my BEST advice...
Click to expand...

I Love Torque!
I would bet money you are correct about the clutch. I have not had time to search yet for high performance clutches for a slant six. I can't help but wonder what all the little hopped up turboed 4 bangers use for clutches. I wonder if any clutches have been made to handle our engines? For the moment I will play around with the 3pd manual that is already mated to the engine. When I found my 67 Slant six it still had the 904 mated up to it. So there is my donor 904 if I go that route. Not sure how sturdy it is but it seemed fine when I was using it years back. I do have a local trans repair guy that has been fixed trannies for my family for about 25 years. I may give it a try myself if time is not an issue.

Next, I think the 2300 2-barrel Holley carb option is a great idea, on a super six intake manifold. Cheap, easy-to-find, and probably the best carburetion idea for a street/strip car like you want to end up with. I would avoid multiple carbs on this project as an unnecessary complication, having no real benefit.
Click to expand...

I think I just scored a 2300 holley from one of our fellow FABO members :cheers: so I am closer to the goal! Multiple carbs always look neat but I have never run them. I own a six pack setup for a 340 but that engine always ran so damn strong on a single 4 bbl that I never swapped it out. I guess I like to keep my options open, like if I need to modify a manifold for EFI in the future. (Pishtas setup makes me drool).

I really like your MSD BTM idea.... should work well for you. I have one on my 360Maagnum/Vortech car and it has always performed flawlessly. I use it with an MSD Blaster II coil.
Click to expand...

Great to hear this! I have used MSD 6T setups on two cars and love the reliability and all the bells and whistles that come with them. The Adjustable timing was a favorite of Mine when I ran nitrous on my 340 Challenger.


This setup you describe, if you get a water/alcohol-injection unit should allow you to run pump gas with 10-12 pounds of boost on the street. That will give you somewhere around 300 horsepower, I think, which should put your car into the low 13's. That's a whale of a lot faster than a stock 340...
Click to expand...

Now this is all new technology for me personally. I will need to do some research on. Is it for track use only?

This, like I said, won't be easy, but is the most fun you can imagine, once it's finished...

Good luck, and keep us informed!!!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Bill,
Thank you for the feedback and please don't hesitate to tell me any ideas or if you see me doing something dumb.

I will keep posting my progress and thoughts as I go.

Mike
 
CichliDart said:
Hi Bill,


Bill,
Thank you for the feedback and please don't hesitate to tell me any ideas or if you see me doing something dumb.

I will keep posting my progress and thoughts as I go.

Mike
Click to expand...
The water/alky unit is probably the easiest part of this whole thing. The one we use is manufactured by Snowperformance in Colorado.

http://www.snowperformance.net/

It is a Stage I unit (the most basic of several) and costs a little over $300.00. That sounds like a lot, but it is a very effective tuning tool. It will allow you to run significantly more boost than you could without it, and is a big help in preventing detonation. It's really easy to hook up, and I mean REALLY easy. For the street AND strip.

Check it out.

I see you are keeping an open mind on the drivetrain... and, that is very important. One fact to realize; the 904 has torque-handling capabilities well beyond what you will need. Just a word to the wise...

Keep digging; knowledge is power!!!:cheers:

PS Do you know Mike Loge or any of the Loge guys?
 
CichliDart said:
Went over to my house Sunday and found my 67 slant six. Found a spare supersix intake but could not find the spare super six exhaust manifold. Must have been tossed out in the move. Those intake ports are sure tiny, need to modify those or get an adapter to mount a 2300 Holley on. Unless I stumble across a 4bbl intake while shopping for other parts. Love to get one of those Aussie 4 barrel intakes but a bit pricey for my blood! Also I think for a low buck turbo a stock 2 bbl will work for now.
Click to expand...

Listen, those tiny ports and the breathing restrictions they impose are all history when you bolt a hairdryer on there...

I don't have any experience with this, but I THINK you might do yourself some good (on a boosted engine) by installing some 1.75" intake valves and six 1.5" exhaust valves, and not touching the ports. Well, maybe open up the area right under the heads of the valve (pocketss) a little, but nothing radical.

A forced induction system makes those small ports a non-issue.
 
The manifold I sent you is for my 2nd stage 2 body 46m Direct port injection mega squirt 3 using a GT3582R.

First stage is 1brl mitsu 2.5 turbo rising rate mod to pump 12 PSI boost. i am currently building the forged piston 225 for stage 2 hope first will be done this week before christmas. Just installed my MSD BTM today.

As for a clutch for stage 2 i will be using a small block scatter shield drilled for 225 and a small block dual disk center force clutch with a small block fly wheel with one hole redrilled to fit the Slanty.

In my Shelby GLHS I use a Turbos unleashed Purple pressure plate an 6 puck ceramic disk. Car has 360hp runs 11.2 128mph 60ft 1.68 I side step the clutch at 7200rpm and it never fails to deliver.

Was thinking of calling him and inquiring about a custom 6 clutch just have not yet.
 
From purely what I have read, a one barrel carbuerated 225 with a t3 turbo is so wasted that its pathetic. What I mean is, a stock one barrel isn't good for a performance n/a slant. Then, if you run 10 psi thru it, its going to lack so much you'll be lucky to rev it to 3500. In other words, you'll pretty much have a gasoline engine with all the unwanted characteristics of a diesel. Matt Cramer(I believe...) Bought the turbo system from the article that most people see (the $300 one?) Maybe he'll chime in and say what he thinks firsthand. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 350cfm 2300 series, on a modified or adapted super six intake. And for turbo, I dont know exactly what turbo would work the best, but a lot of guys use a GN sized t4, or I think even a large t3/t4 hybrid would work.
 
Brandon Weaver said:
From purely what I have read, a one barrel carbuerated 225 with a t3 turbo is so wasted that its pathetic. What I mean is, a stock one barrel isn't good for a performance n/a slant. Then, if you run 10 psi thru it, its going to lack so much you'll be lucky to rev it to 3500. In other words, you'll pretty much have a gasoline engine with all the unwanted characteristics of a diesel. Matt Cramer(I believe...) Bought the turbo system from the article that most people see (the $300 one?) Maybe he'll chime in and say what he thinks firsthand. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 350cfm 2300 series, on a modified or adapted super six intake. And for turbo, I dont know exactly what turbo would work the best, but a lot of guys use a GN sized t4, or I think even a large t3/t4 hybrid would work.
Click to expand...

I think that is all very good advice. The 2300 is available in 350 and 500cfm sizes, and either one would probably be fine for this application. Definitely avoid the one-barrel.

Tom Wolfe (SHAKER223 on FABO) once bolted a Buick GN turbo onto an almost stock 225 slant six (I think it had a 4bbl intake manifold and carb; otherwise, was bone stock) and boosted it up to 18 pounds of pressure and it ran 12.95 at 104 mph... That was an engine with over 100,000 miles on it which had never had the head removed. Tiny valves and all...

Of course, you won't want to run 18 pounds of boost, but with the water/alky injector, you should be able to get away with 10 pounds on pump gas with no problems, and still go pretty fast... like somewhere in the 13's, probably.

That's a fun ride! :)
 
amoparacer said:
The manifold I sent you is for my 2nd stage 2 body 46m Direct port injection mega squirt 3 using a GT3582R.

First stage is 1brl mitsu 2.5 turbo rising rate mod to pump 12 PSI boost. i am currently building the forged piston 225 for stage 2 hope first will be done this week before christmas. Just installed my MSD BTM today.

As for a clutch for stage 2 i will be using a small block scatter shield drilled for 225 and a small block dual disk center force clutch with a small block fly wheel with one hole redrilled to fit the Slanty.

In my Shelby GLHS I use a Turbos unleashed Purple pressure plate an 6 puck ceramic disk. Car has 360hp runs 11.2 128mph 60ft 1.68 I side step the clutch at 7200rpm and it never fails to deliver.

Was thinking of calling him and inquiring about a custom 6 clutch just have not yet.
Click to expand...

Could you show us some pictures of your forged-piston 225, please? I am vitally interested in your slant six build... it sounds awesome!

Thanks!8)
 
Hi Bill,

Just read up a bit on their website. Wish I had this when I was playing around with nitrous oxide. The dollar to HP/torque ratio is good! Seeing as our highest octane out this way is 91 this seems pretty cool if you want to go racing :)

As for the 904 it was my back up plan when I was going with a 5.7 hemi or 360 magnum.
My thoughts were...you can build them up very strong and they use less power than a 727. I have not measured the trans on the 3spd manual but if it is the same length as the 904 I may save a little cash on the driveshaft.

I have not met any of the Loge guys. I just had to google them. Will keep my eyes open now for them.

Mike

Bill Dedman said:
The water/alky unit is probably the easiest part of this whole thing. The one we use is manufactured by Snowperformance in Colorado.

http://www.snowperformance.net/

It is a Stage I unit (the most basic of several) and costs a little over $300.00. That sounds like a lot, but it is a very effective tuning tool. It will allow you to run significantly more boost than you could without it, and is a big help in preventing detonation. It's really easy to hook up, and I mean REALLY easy. For the street AND strip.

Check it out.

I see you are keeping an open mind on the drivetrain... and, that is very important. One fact to realize; the 904 has torque-handling capabilities well beyond what you will need. Just a word to the wise...

Keep digging; knowledge is power!!!:cheers:

PS Do you know Mike Loge or any of the Loge guys?
Click to expand...
 
Bill Dedman said:
Listen, those tiny ports and the breathing restrictions they impose are all history when you bolt a hairdryer on there...

I don't have any experience with this, but I THINK you might do yourself some good (on a boosted engine) by installing some 1.75" intake valves and six 1.5" exhaust valves, and not touching the ports. Well, maybe open up the area right under the heads of the valve (pocketss) a little, but nothing radical.

A forced induction system makes those small ports a non-issue.
Click to expand...

This makes all kind of sense to me. Bigger valves should equal more air and fuel in and out of engine. Now force more of both in with "the hairdryer" and more power. The price of valves are also 25% less than a v8 8)

Oh, similar topic. 340 valve springs? I read that stock 340 valves springs were a safe upgrade. Have you read anything different? Rockauto has them really inexpensive unless you think it wise to go with a name brand speed part. This is not necessarily a budget build but if I don't need a name brand part I might as well spend the cash somewhere else on the car.

As for the porting and pocketing work...I am up for that as well. Bought an air compressor last summer and the neighbors have not heard me make a lot of noise with it yet :cheers:

If I pull the head to do this I will be able to see if this engine was ever rebuilt. The car seems in pretty original condition. Stripped basic model that the seller picked up for a song and cleaned up and sold to me. I doubt it has been rebuilt but I do have a spare engine in case I go crazy next summer and want to do more. It is also not my daily driver so I don't need to have it put together on a Sunday to drive to work on Monday.
 
amoparacer said:
The manifold I sent you is for my 2nd stage 2 body 46m Direct port injection mega squirt 3 using a GT3582R.

First stage is 1brl mitsu 2.5 turbo rising rate mod to pump 12 PSI boost. i am currently building the forged piston 225 for stage 2 hope first will be done this week before christmas. Just installed my MSD BTM today.
Click to expand...

Can't wait to see this! My MSD box got here yesterday. No turbo on the car so no hurry yet. Guess I could install it now as it will probably smooth out the idle and start easier anyway.

As for a clutch for stage 2 i will be using a small block scatter shield drilled for 225 and a small block dual disk center force clutch with a small block fly wheel with one hole redrilled to fit the Slanty.

In my Shelby GLHS I use a Turbos unleashed Purple pressure plate an 6 puck ceramic disk. Car has 360hp runs 11.2 128mph 60ft 1.68 I side step the clutch at 7200rpm and it never fails to deliver.

Was thinking of calling him and inquiring about a custom 6 clutch just have not yet.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Ahhhhh! So that's how you got around the tiny flywheel and got a safe bell housing in the process :cheers:

If you call on the clutch I would be interested to hear what they have to say.

Thanks!
 
Brandon Weaver said:
From purely what I have read, a one barrel carbuerated 225 with a t3 turbo is so wasted that its pathetic. What I mean is, a stock one barrel isn't good for a performance n/a slant. Then, if you run 10 psi thru it, its going to lack so much you'll be lucky to rev it to 3500. In other words, you'll pretty much have a gasoline engine with all the unwanted characteristics of a diesel. Matt Cramer(I believe...) Bought the turbo system from the article that most people see (the $300 one?) Maybe he'll chime in and say what he thinks firsthand. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 350cfm 2300 series, on a modified or adapted super six intake. And for turbo, I dont know exactly what turbo would work the best, but a lot of guys use a GN sized t4, or I think even a large t3/t4 hybrid would work.
Click to expand...


Hi Brandon,
Thanks for the feedback. I did manage to find a super six intake and I scored a 350 cfm 2300 holley setup for blow through so I may have jumped that hurdle. If I go crazy down the road a bigger two barrel is not that expensive. I always have my eye on ebay so I may stumble across another 4 bbl intake if money is burning a hole in my pocket for more power. From my BRIEF glance at the hanger 18 page on modifying a carb for blow through I may be able to pull it off myself. If not my Dad is a whiz with carb rebuilding and will probably bail me out if I get in over my head.

Thanks for suggestions on the turbo size and Grand national for a reference:cheers: That is something I can read up on now.
 
Bill Dedman said:
I think that is all very good advice. The 2300 is available in 350 and 500cfm sizes, and either one would probably be fine for this application. Definitely avoid the one-barrel.

Tom Wolfe (SHAKER223 on FABO) once bolted a Buick GN turbo onto an almost stock 225 slant six (I think it had a 4bbl intake manifold and carb; otherwise, was bone stock) and boosted it up to 18 pounds of pressure and it ran 12.95 at 104 mph... That was an engine with over 100,000 miles on it which had never had the head removed. Tiny valves and all...

Of course, you won't want to run 18 pounds of boost, but with the water/alky injector, you should be able to get away with 10 pounds on pump gas with no problems, and still go pretty fast... like somewhere in the 13's, probably.

That's a fun ride! :)
Click to expand...

WOW! Lot of fun for a small investment :cheers::cheers:
 
CichliDart said:
This makes all kind of sense to me. Bigger valves should equal more air and fuel in and out of engine. Now force more of both in with "the hairdryer" and more power. The price of valves are also 25% less than a v8 8)

Oh, similar topic. 340 valve springs? I read that stock 340 valves springs were a safe upgrade. Have you read anything different? Rockauto has them really inexpensive unless you think it wise to go with a name brand speed part. This is not necessarily a budget build but if I don't need a name brand part I might as well spend the cash somewhere else on the car.

We ran 340 valve springs, plus a pretty weak inner spring, but were looking at to possibility of some serious boost (the boost tries to open the intake valve,) and some 1.6:1 rocker arms and learned that with the 1.6:1 rockers, we might be getting into coil-bind with the 340 springs, so we replaced them with some Cranes (can't remember the part number, but 805Moparkid recommended them, so he probably knows). But, for your application, stock 340 springs should work fine. No need to buy some high-dollar aftermarket spring.


As for the porting and pocketing work...I am up for that as well. Bought an air compressor last summer and the neighbors have not heard me make a lot of noise with it yet :cheers:

That's great news!

If I pull the head to do this I will be able to see if this engine was ever rebuilt. The car seems in pretty original condition. Stripped basic model that the seller picked up for a song and cleaned up and sold to me. I doubt it has been rebuilt but I do have a spare engine in case I go crazy next summer and want to do more. It is also not my daily driver so I don't need to have it put together on a Sunday to drive to work on Monday.
Click to expand...

...................................................................................................
 
CichliDart said:
Hi Bill,

Just read up a bit on their website. Wish I had this when I was playing around with nitrous oxide. The dollar to HP/torque ratio is good! Seeing as our highest octane out this way is 91 this seems pretty cool if you want to go racing :)

As for the 904 it was my back up plan when I was going with a 5.7 hemi or 360 magnum.
My thoughts were...you can build them up very strong and they use less power than a 727. I have not measured the trans on the 3spd manual but if it is the same length as the 904 I may save a little cash on the driveshaft.

I have not met any of the Loge guys. I just had to google them. Will keep my eyes open now for them.

Mike
Click to expand...

From 1980 'til I retired in 2004, I lived in Hayward... So, I spent a lot of time at Fremont (Baylands?) when it was open, and later at Sears Point (Infineon?) and met a lot of racers in that 24 years. I worked in Production at the San Francisco Chronicle, but in downtown SF and later at the Union City plants.

So, Mike Loge (about my age) and Randy (his son) were both running A-Bodies (340's) in NHRA Stock Eliminator at the time, and still do, I believe. I lost touch with them years ago, but I had heard that Mike (and maybe Randy) lived in Antioch, now. Just thought you might have crossed paths with them at some point. I am pretty sure they have NO IDEA of the potential of a boosted slant six... LOL! But, they are MOPAR, through and through.... =P~
 

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