Let's get this slant turbo project started. 71 Dart

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CichliDart said:
Whoops!

Must have been my wishful thinking. :glasses7:

The buyer just got their slant six rods today so I may take a wander over to Summit and buy some rotors for this thing.

Just got the Turbo last night night. It is a little sloppier than I would like but you get what you pay for. I may look for a rebuild kit for it.

Now that California has gone from raining to 85 degree weather in a 48 hour period it is time for me to go yarding again! On the lookout for an 8 1/4 rear end with tall gears. Not as many A bodies in the yards these days. May have to go with the original plan of the 8 3/4.


Mike
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Nearly alll the Aspen/Volares had 8.25" rears and most of them come with ratios in the twos..... I think they are pretty much a bolt-in to any A body...

If I am wrong, somebody please correct me.

They might be a lot easier to locate in junkyards than late A body rears.

Good luck.:cheers:
 
All three of my 75 A-bodies had 8.25 rears with 2.45 gears. The 4 speed car sounded like a NASCAR wind up and when I hit O.D. I realized the tires were not speed rated.... I found a set of 3.55s and a posi from a Dakota on ebay and they fit with minimal trouble in the Dart's housing.
 
Bill Dedman said:
Nearly alll the Aspen/Volares had 8.25" rears and most of them come with ratios in the twos..... I think they are pretty much a bolt-in to any A body... If I am wrong, somebody please correct me. They might be a lot easier to locate in junkyards than late A body rears. Good luck.:cheers:
Click to expand...

[/QUOTE]All three of my 75 A-bodies had 8.25 rears with 2.45 gears. The 4 speed car sounded like a NASCAR wind up and when I hit O.D. I realized the tires were not speed rated.... I found a set of 3.55s and a posi from a Dakota on ebay and they fit with minimal trouble in the Dart's housing. [/QUOTE]

__________________

Bill and Mguner

I have not had much luck finding an 8 1/4 in an A Body locally and think I read the Aspen one is a bit too wide.

I think I will just assemble the 8 3/4 diff parts I have. I have the big bolt axles, will probably use the 3:23 sure grip I have as it worked fine 20 years ago :) . I did buy a 2:76 non sure grip pumpkin but the guy could not figure out how to ship it with out breaking it down into two packages. Future project reassembling that. I have new brake lines for it, just need the brake flex hose tee block, a new vent tube, and brakes.

Mike
 
Go check out Serj's turbo project. This guy has a great eye for detail, is persistent and works fast! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=284845

Now that my several month Hiatus for Burning Man is over I am back to kicking my tires and finding inspiration in Serj's build. I just got 3" outlet flange for my turbo. Also ordered some welding cable to relocate the battery to the trunk. If anyone has advice on the best path to follow on where to run the cable that would be great.

Having trouble finding parts for the carb I bought from another member earlier this year. My girlfriend's toleration for crap laying around too long has reached critical mass. Things get moved now if they sit more than a day or two. :wack: Guess I need to find the carb and just order new parts and a strip kit for it.

I realize I am too scattered working on the car, too many things half started. I am working on swapping out the entire front end, K frame, steering box, rebuild kit, plates to weld on the lower control arms, tubular uppers, new master, new 11 3/4 brakes from Dr. Diff. I would like to swap all of this out all at once but still need new torsion bars and a few odds and ends and a few things welded before I can swap it all. This of course means new rims and tires :banghead:

On top of that I am also planning on swapping the manual trans three on the tree for a four speed. Have a bell housing, an overdrive trans with shifter, just need a clutch and cut and balance a drive shaft I just bought. I think I should do the 8 3/4 swap at the same time I do the trans swap so I can have the drive shaft cut once.

Ouch, too many projects!
 
I put two of these in the firewall, a red one and a black one. Placed them up high enough that the front passenger's feet can't easily get on them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all76142
AAF-ALL76142_ml.jpg
Ran the cables inside under the carpet on the floor up against the trans tunnel. Figured that there is a hell of lot less that can damage them inside the car than under it.
 
For battery relocate. I grounded the battery to the trunk and reused the old battery tray to strap it down. I dipped the + lead into the trunk extension on the passenger side of the trunk, then ran the wire across to the driver's side between the tank and rear seat. Then it travels up the wiring tray under the door sills to the kick panel, goes up, out the side of the car, and travels to the engine bay through the fender so it comes out the side. It works good, and minimizes it ever being bumped or moved. It was totally necessary to move the battery too. I tried to make it work, but it's just too hard.
 
Thanks for the advice. I just saved them to my summit wish list. Got a bunch of stuff in that list, I wait until there is a $100. + in items I need to get the free shipping.

Mike

ntsqd said:
I put two of these in the firewall, a red one and a black one. Placed them up high enough that the front passenger's feet can't easily get on them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all76142
AAF-ALL76142_ml.jpg
Ran the cables inside under the carpet on the floor up against the trans tunnel. Figured that there is a hell of lot less that can damage them inside the car than under it.
Click to expand...
 
Serj22 said:
For battery relocate. I grounded the battery to the trunk and reused the old battery tray to strap it down. I dipped the + lead into the trunk extension on the passenger side of the trunk, then ran the wire across to the driver's side between the tank and rear seat. Then it travels up the wiring tray under the door sills to the kick panel, goes up, out the side of the car, and travels to the engine bay through the fender so it comes out the side. It works good, and minimizes it ever being bumped or moved. It was totally necessary to move the battery too. I tried to make it work, but it's just too hard.
Click to expand...

Thanks Serj.
Between your advice and the previous poster you guys have given me a head start on the install. I should get the Cable on Wednesday. Unfortunately my subframe is not welded together, I may have to runs some extra grounding wires to make sure I have a good ground.
 
Show n tell
 

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Anyone every use a Holley 6425 for a turbo?
 

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CichliDart said:
Anyone every use a Holley 6425 for a turbo?
Click to expand...

The one on the left looks like a boat carb, you sure it's a 350? Usually those are about a 270 or something and they came on International stuff. The other carb looks like it would work just fine but appears to be missing a lot of pieces?

Also your supersix rusty looking intake with the single adapter plate is exactly how my carb is mounted. Did you go with a 6" radius for the U bend or longer?
 
Serj22 said:
The one on the left looks like a boat carb, you sure it's a 350? Usually those are about a 270 or something and they came on International stuff. The other carb looks like it would work just fine but appears to be missing a lot of pieces?

Also your supersix rusty looking intake with the single adapter plate is exactly how my carb is mounted. Did you go with a 6" radius for the U bend or longer?
Click to expand...

You know I don't know for certain if it is a 350, it was sold to me by another member as a 350 but I know he used it on his turbo project with good results. The price was right and it was a known quantity so I jumped on it. He threw in the adapter which was great as now I don't have to find one. The rusty intake is a spare I picked up a decade ago when I was able to find Super 6 setups at Pick n Pulls. Have not seen one in ages. My dart came with a good running super six intake and carb on it. Had no idea it was on it when I bought it. Works much better than my 67 slant six super six did.

The other carb is a 6425 and I believe a circle track carb. 650 cfm. Here is link with some better pictures.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjM5WDczMQ==/z/xBMAAOSwdsFUPCOY/$_12.

I got a good deal on it earlier in the year or last year and it was admittedly an impulse buy, but I wonder if I can make it work? Guess I can put it on and see if it works? Two of the other carbs were free and the other is one I got off FABO for 10 bucks. One is a 450 vacuum and the other is supposed to be a 600 vacuum, the big one is hard to identify as the choke horn has been cut off, but supposedly came off a 427 chevy. Too big and not a true double pumper. These are parts carbs for the most part.

Mulling over getting a 600 or 650 double pumper in the future if the big two barrel does not work out. The big two barrel is discontinued and not a lot of information about them. I found a couple posts about them not being so good on the street. The 650 double pumper is a very common carb, lots of different uses, lots of parts, it may be the winner in the long run.

AS for the pipe: Dynomax 42392 Mandrel J-Bend - Aluminized Steel
Mandrel J-Bend - Aluminized Steel
Tube OD: 2-1/2''
Radius (R): 3-1/2''
A: 6''
B: 15''
C: 4-1/2''
16 Gauge

Today was all about fighting my way into the garage and finding all the parts I have been accumulating. See what is missing and what I think I still need. Found a battery box and battery tray. I think I will go with your idea of bolting in the battery tray. Save the battery box for another project. Picked up 20 feet of welding cable recently, think I need a couple more terminals. Also thinking of putting on a kill switch for theft prevention.
 
I bolted the battery tray down with the battery box strap running undeneath it, then put a $5.00 battery box on top of it from Walmart. Looks and works great. Very cost effective, and very secure.

You sure you can get 2 1/2" pipe onto the stock manifold itself? I went with 2 1/4" and it seemed to overlap the 1 7/8" outlet quite a bit.
 
Serj22 said:
I bolted the battery tray down with the battery box strap running undeneath it, then put a $5.00 battery box on top of it from Walmart. Looks and works great. Very cost effective, and very secure.

You sure you can get 2 1/2" pipe onto the stock manifold itself? I went with 2 1/4" and it seemed to overlap the 1 7/8" outlet quite a bit.
Click to expand...

Excellent question!
Someone suggested 2 1/2 and I went with it. I am assuming the exhaust manifold on the car now is from a supersix, if not I have a spare from my previous project. The exhaust is a bit larger on those. I have read lots of back and forth on there only being one size but measured one and it is a bit larger. I was also thinking of hogging it out a bit as well.

Not that I like pissing away money, but if it doesn't work the cost of another j pipe is not bad. I guess I should stop the spending spree and try to actually bolt up a flange to see. The most recent flange I got seems to have wandered off :/ guess I need to look for it again.

Thanks for pointing that out and any other ideas or suggestions please feel free to post them.
 
Actually i do have a suggestion -

None of the "over the counter" exhaust flanges fit right for me. They all had a 2 1/4" ID but the bolt pattern was not as wide as it needed to be to meet the stock manifold bolt holes. They were all too small. Make sure the flange you have fits before you start.
 
Serj22 said:
Actually i do have a suggestion -

None of the "over the counter" exhaust flanges fit right for me. They all had a 2 1/4" ID but the bolt pattern was not as wide as it needed to be to meet the stock manifold bolt holes. They were all too small. Make sure the flange you have fits before you start.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice!

Still searching for the one of the flanges I bought. Perhaps I should get the smaller pipe as well. Of course it is raining so that may put the brakes on popping off the down pipe until it clears. I think I need to go to harbor freight and get some calipers to measure the interior of the pipe on the car. I noted that Remflex makes a gasket that is 2 1/4 so maybe I am going overkill on the larger size. Or I could just get a lot of practice welding on the stuff I have and make something work.



Mike
 
i went 2.25" with my j pipe. it works well. if i were to make another one i would probably use 2" just for that slightly faster spool. also using the remflex 2.25" exhaust gasket. its nice. ive had the j pipe off a couple times and it is still good. same with the head to manifold gasket. nice crush on it and it seals beautifully. i would recommend any of the remflex gaskets. have had nothing but good experience with them.
 
RustyPlymouth said:
i went 2.25" with my j pipe. it works well. if i were to make another one i would probably use 2" just for that slightly faster spool. also using the remflex 2.25" exhaust gasket. its nice. ive had the j pipe off a couple times and it is still good. same with the head to manifold gasket. nice crush on it and it seals beautifully. i would recommend any of the remflex gaskets. have had nothing but good experience with them.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice and suggestions!
Well you sold me on the remflex gaskets : ) I will pick up the exhaust one. You have made me think on the smaller pipe the last couple days. Makes sense that it would spool a little quicker. At what RPM does your boost become noticeable now?

I picked up another carb, a 500 cfm two barrel. 4412-1 rebuilt. Looks great. Came with #73 jets. Does anyone have any suggestions on what size may be a good starting point for a stock engine? I already started to order the Hangar 18 parts for it.

Any input on intercooler size?
Is there a diminishing return on intercooler size?

Mike
 
i havent really had a chance to look at the tach when the boost comes on. just keeping the car on the road is enough. lol. it starts a little later then the other one so im gonna say it starts from a stop around 2500-2700rpm and at 20psi 3200-3500. once it starts it gets there fast. its spinning tires and getting squirly when the boost comes on. i got a tach with a shift light just so i wouldnt have to look down. lol.

for the 500 i would say just run the 73's for now. get it all working and holding pressure and go from there. start with 5-8psi and get farmiliar with how to tune the carb then start stepping it up when you are comfortable if you want.

i put the biggest intercooler i thought i could fit in my car. went behind the grille with a measuring tape and started figuring out what i was willing to cut to make it happen. there isnt much room behind my grille. there is a noticable pressure drop across it. 3psi or so. but after doing test pulls and bringing the car back i feel it to check the temp most of the time. the turbo side is warm, 1/4 over twards the outlet side is cool to the touch. so i know its working. piping is all nice and cold too. if you plan on running any double digit numbers i would plan on some kind of intercooler, air to air or chemical. hot air kills engines.
 
This is just a little bit over priced ;)
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/cast-aluminum-2-barrel-OPTIONAL-RARE-M1-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-SLANT-SIX-6-225-170-198-/161476685519?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2598c2aecf&vxp=mtr"]Cast Aluminum 2 Barrel Optional RARE M1 Intake Manifold Slant Six 6 225 170 198 | eBay[/ame]
 
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