Distributor refresh gone wrong

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Orangepeel isreal

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So I bought a 72 slant dart last spring and put about 18,000 miles on it before winter hit. Didn't even look at the points until I got it out of storage a couple weeks ago and decided I might as well just replace everything: points, condenser, rotor, cap. So I did this and reinstalled it. Now the car won't start.

Yes, the rotor is right on the #1 plug at TDC and the distributor is in exactly as it came out. No, i have no idea what I'm actually doing. With youtube, forums, and the service manual I normally come out okay. But I'm getting frustrated now. If I can get it running then I can drive it to a friend's place who really knows what they're doing and has basic tools like a timing light. Any advise is great, some will be redundant since I have done a fair bit of research already.
 
Lift the distributor up and spin the rotor 180 degrees... then try it again .
I get mine off 180 about every third time I remove it ...lol
 
Get a dwell meter. And feeler gauges. And a timing light. And new plug wires. And new plugs. And a cold beer.
My guess is that you didn't gap the new points, and that's why it won't start.
Oh, and get yourself a spare ballast and throw it in the glove box.

If you dont have all that **** when you take it over to your friend's you better bring booze and steaks to throw on the bbq. Just saying...
 
Did you use a business card to set your initial point gap?
 
BTW , according to the pics my brother sent me on Sunday its STILL WINTER IN MINNESOTA !

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Ooops
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The only part of that list I don't have is a timing light. I'm not totally incompetent, but I am cheap, so if i know multiple friends with timing lights then I'm not going to run out and buy one.
 
mbaird said:
BTW , according to the pics my brother sent me on Sunday its STILL WINTER IN MINNESOTA !

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It was beautiful spring weather for a couple weeks, but now I'm back to driving the truck until the fresh layer of chemicals and sand get off the road :/
 
Maybe my memory is jaded but I dont recall it snowing there in April ... now its a common occurance !
 
mbaird said:
Maybe my memory is jaded but I dont recall it snowing there in April ... now its a common occurance !
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May 2nd 2013 I took the snowmobile out cuz we got almost 2 feet of snow that day. The only consistancy is lack of consistency.
 
Orangepeel isreal said:
The only part of that list I don't have is a timing light. I'm not totally incompetent, but I am cheap, so if i know multiple friends with timing lights then I'm not going to run out and buy one.
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Then you may as well sell the car and take up stamp collecting. Timing lights are dirt cheap and a needed tool for an older car. If you won't spend money on that, then just give it up.
 
mbaird said:
Lift the distributor up and spin the rotor 180 degrees... then try it again .
I get mine off 180 about every third time I remove it ...lol
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I guess I'm having a mental lapse in conceptualizing this. Of course this solution has come up many times on other posts related to the same thing. So it has nothing to with having left the motor as is while I took the distributor out and screwed with it.. cuz I was spinning it willy nilly on the bench. So even though i have it lined up the way it should, I'm just applying spark to the opposite of the the powerstroke?
 
"Yes, the rotor is right on the #1 plug at TDC and the distributor is in exactly as it came out"
Is the #1 piston at TDC compression stroke? Did you rotate the engine while the distributor was out?
 
MoparMike1974 said:
"Yes, the rotor is right on the #1 plug at TDC and the distributor is in exactly as it came out"
Is the #1 piston at TDC compression stroke? Did you rotate the engine while the distributor was out?
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No. Engine did not move. I will definitely try turning the rotor 180° tomorrow when I'm done with work though. No harm in trying that.
 
Let's start with the basics........do you actually have spark? How to check........"Rig" (or buy a spark test gap) a spark plug and rig a solid core wire. Rig it up so you can see it say, through the hood gap. Crank the engine USING THE KEY. This is important, as it retains the wiring that would be used if trying to start. When you jumper the starter relay manually, things change. You should have a nice hot blue, snappy spark about 3/8" or longer

If the engine did not move, and you are sure the rotor is in the same place, then the timing should be close. Bear in mind that "new" points and condenser does not mean "good and operational." Points can be badly manufactured, defective, and modern condensers (capacitors) are even worse. It is not uncommon in these old girls for the distributor lead to be "rotten" and develop a short going through the dist. wire hole, or even break internally. "You" getting in there and moving around might be all it took.

Timing light: Get busy on Craigslist and find a used one. YOU CAN SET timing fairly accurately IF YOU ARE CAREFUL the "static" method which used to be used on VW bugs

DO NOT GUESS on compression / firing stroke, do this: "Rig" something (I guess your finger doesn't reach) into the no1 plug hole to "feel" for compression. You can gut an old plug and put a fitting on there, buy a spark plug air fitting, or if you have a compression tester you are all set. Remove other plugs to make this easier

now with your test device, whatever you are using, in place, hand crank or "starter bump" the engine until you start to get compression. STOP!! Now revolve the crank by hand, until the timing marks are aligned NOT on TDC, but where you want timing set, say, 6BTC.

NOW rig a test lamp on the coil NEG wire, or disconnect dist. wire and rig a continuity device, light, meter, to the wire. Rotate dist. CW (retard) and make sure points are CLOSED. Slowly rotate dist. CCW (advanced) until points open JUST OPEN. Snug down the dist. and start the engine.

Before you do that, recheck is the rotor and dist cap in good condition? Clean/ dry, no metallic between contacts? As you replace the cap and without moving the engine --after static time--is the rotor "approaching" the no1 wire tower going CW? Are the plug wires correct?
 
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67Dart273 said:
How exactly did you set the points?
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I really do appreciate your effort on your previous comment.

I don't feel the need to repeat myself for the 3rd time on how I set the points gap per factory spec with a feeler gauge. Or what condition a new distributor cap is in. It's a relatively short comment thread.

I have taken note of the wiring and connections and they all look and feel like a 65,000 mile car would. I do make a point to ensure a clean connection with sand paper anytime I disconnect and mess with something old. Also use dielectric grease where appropriate to ensure the best possible connections.
 
OK here we go. Check if your rotor is in the right position first. Do not rotate it 180 slants have a gear not a sotted shaft. There are also two timing slots on the hold down camp on the distrib, one is on the bock, the other is under the distributor. One position is verified see if you have spark. Aso see if the distributor is grounded points need a ground. If the points and condenser is new from the store check to see if the condenser is shorted out very common with new ones. There is a how to thread on checking them with a ohm meter. Hope it helps.
Also did you check the ballast resistor?
How To Check a Condenser on a Points Ignition

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Some new point sets have a coating on them,and wont pass current. A piece of paper to clean them is all you need. Printer type paper. When i had my distributor out, i test with an ohmmeter to verify continuity through points when they close.
And if old points are worn evenly i leave condenser as is.

had a skidsteer that lost spark. It was cold and raining, needed to load it, i took a chance and popped cap,clipped wire on condenser and it fired right up. Didnt run worth a ****,but it loaded onto trailer and i could get it out of the weather.
 
Orangepeel isreal said:
The only part of that list I don't have is a timing light. I'm not totally incompetent, but I am cheap, so if i know multiple friends with timing lights then I'm not going to run out and buy one.
Click to expand...
A rule of thumb is, if you gotta borrow a tool twice, go ahead and buy it. Just sayin'.
 
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