Mine was just a 20 x 20 one b body one e body and the one I bought was a vega. I guess that's cheating a little. Not a 4 banger, 454 LS7 full cage all aluminum interior and 14x32 slicks. One bad *** little street car. Yea sometimes my inventory would fall low but it was just because I needed the $$$. Trying to keep what I have now but may have to sell one to finance the others. The big question is which one???
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
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Mine was just a 20 x 20 one b body one e body and the one I bought was a vega. I guess that's cheating a little. Not a 4 banger, 454 LS7 full cage all aluminum interior and 14x32 slicks. One bad *** little street car. Yea sometimes my inventory would fall low but it was just because I needed the $$$. Trying to keep what I have now but may have to sell one to finance the others. The big question is which one???
I tried adjusting the linkage more. Had my brother press the gas to the floor then adjusted the kickdown cable to the kickdown lever all the way backwards. Its frustrating because shifting 2-3 was way worse, it did not want to shift to 3rd at all. I backed off the cable a touch and will try again tomorrow. You can barely tell but there are a lot of divots in this dang line.
When I first starting reading about the kickdown adjustment it sure looked like the Lokar cable was the way to go, I'm glad I have all the stock linkage now - hopefully you get that thing set
Have you found the other project car yet? garage looked clean in one of those photos
Have you found the other project car yet? garage looked clean in one of those photos
I really don't get it. It was* doing great until it wasn't lol. I had sharp quick somewhat hard shifts... now not so much. I'm just worried about burning the transmission out before the freaking linkage is set up. Or ****, maybe I should drill the 2nd vb and see if it is better, its probably the linkage though.
Another project car? No sir, I still have lots to do on this one. Like find a way to fit a bed inside of it and sleep in it
Freak if that had the 4 speed at this point it would probably be the way to go haha.
3 running cars? Thats not good, not good at all...
Did the cable go all the way back? Does it now have slack?
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
That’s a sweet 67 Dart project. I’ve got a hood and a rear bumper for it lol.
Won't it be nice when you graduate and you can pay someone to do this stuff for you.
I like working on the car it keeps me busy and out of trouble... besides the trouble with the wife lol.
The cable is adjusted properly per directions and I'm still not getting a shift that I like. My 1-2 shift is soft at 20mph and 2-3 is at 30 (not soft or super hard but a nice firm shift). Under wot it doesn't have a nice shift though. I might try my extra vb in the car and see if that makes a difference to know if its the vb or linkage.
I also have the stock throtrle cable which gives it an awkward angle, so I am thinking of picking up a lokar throttle cable so I can mount my lokar kickdown with my throttle cable. That would give me the ability to get an exact 1 to 1 ratio with the throttle and kickdown cables like it says to in the directions.
Currently how its all set up. I have the lokar brackets but stock throttle cable. I can't get the lines parallel with the stock cable.
I'm loving the sound and power the motor is putting out right now. Its strong and healthy where the only thing holding it back is the shifting.
Ummm, if you just added one more pedal you could solve all your problems... 
Ummm, if you just added one more pedal you could solve all your problems...
Oh yes I know this and have thought about it... or just go full manual vb with B&M quicksilver cable shifter lol
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
You should be using the nuts that hold the cable to the bracket to adjust it instead of the screw at the end of the cable, that thing is getting destroyed (I made the same mistake a few times before figuring it out lol). I have the Lokar throttle and kickdown cable setup on my Duster and adjusting the kickdown is tricky, it's a pretty narrow window to get it just right. I'll adjust the nuts by only about one turn at a time. Loosen the nuts and thread the cable sheath back so it's roughly half way instead of all the way forward like you have it now.
Overall though I don't think that extension piece on the carb throttle linkage is going to work right with your KD cable, I bought one of those and put it on an Edelbrock I'm swapping into my truck and the instructions show that bottom hole with a small through-bolt to hold it to the throttle bracket along with the top one like you have. I believe that bracket is only intended for using the factory throttle cable AND kickdown rod connected to the factory pin/shaft thingy. The locations of where the cable ends attach to the throttle bracket affect the travel ratio a lot more than having the cables slightly angled instead of perfectly parallel (one may be slightly farther from the pivot point of the throttle shaft than the other).
You're saying to adjust with these nuts correct? I'll try adjusting with those in the morning. I havent been driving the car during the day to much because its been so hot in Vegas lately.
I think this is the extension you're talking about in the second picture? If so I don't use it. Where the throttle is attached is where it has always been attached same with the kickdown linkage, although I've been adjusting the linkage like a mad man the past couple of days.
Original kickdown is all linkage,no cable. Im curious if you have a return spring on the kickdown lever on transmission.
Without a return spring i think you are getting an inconsistent result with every adjustment.
And using the threaded adjuster will give you a measurable adjustment.
Without a return spring i think you are getting an inconsistent result with every adjustment.
And using the threaded adjuster will give you a measurable adjustment.
I reposted mine because there's a reason I asked it. I believe the geometry is incorrect. Your post on #1888 got it, it has to come out to a 1 to 1 ratio. If you adjust it to full travel at wide open and have slack back on idle you need to correct the geometry. It could be as simple as drilling a hole or moving it at the carb. It could be difficult as fabricating a longer level but I'll bet just drilling a hole or moving it will solve your problem.
I thought on the lokar torqueflight article says not to have a spring on the lower lever.
So I messed with the adjusting nuts today, never got it perfect under WOT heck even under 3/4 throttle. I got a new Mr Gasket throttle cable , I know its not Lokar but it will do for now...hopefully...
I will set up the throttle cable and kickdown cable like this and maybe it will allow me to adjust everything a little better.
I will set up the throttle cable and kickdown cable like this and maybe it will allow me to adjust everything a little better.
your cam swap sure went to hell, about like me gonna change a few leaking freeze plugs and strut rod bushings
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