74 Duster- So my Power Steering Box is leaking, but it works fine. What are my options? I know Lucas has a fluid that they claim will stop a leak. Any other options aside from a new box? Thanks for your input.
^^^^^^I have the same problem with mine. It is leaking around the input shaft. It was dripping at a pretty good rate. I used some of the Lucas stop leak and it helped some. Still leaking, but not as fast. I will probably try and fix it this winter.
It is leaking around the input shaft.
I can tell you a little about this from my steering box adventures. The pressure side of a stock Mopar box is between 700 and over 1000 psi for B and C bodies, actually the pump spec. That's part of why they feel like novocaine in your arms. The return side is very low pressure, like 4 psi back to the pump. That's why you can remove the cap while idling. If the seals in the steering box wear - and they will eventually - the high pressure side leaks through internally, putting too much fluid around the input shaft. Eventually, you'll need to replace the seals.
That procedure went very bad for one of our members. I dont recall was his drill bit too big or what. He damaged either the shaft or the housing (my memory sux).When I built my 74 Scamp I had a leak from the input shaft seal. After disconnecting the steering shaft and pulling the steering column back a little I was able to drill a very tiny hole in the seal housing, then start a small screw in the hole and then put a pair of vice grips on the end of the screw and tap on the vice grips to pop the seal out, it worked out very well. Installing a new seal was easy with a deep socket the correct size and make sure you lube up the new seal before you re-connect the steering shaft it never leaked again.
Bob
Good info - ThanksWhile nothing said above is untrue or incorrect in my opinion, in my experience it's usually just a worn out seal and both can be replaced in the car via the methods suggested. 66Cuda referenced just sliding back the column/coupler enough to change the upper. I have often removed the column from the car and serviced the input seal from inside the car thru the firewall hole. Main thing to remember is, however you remove the input or output seals you want to avoid scratching, nicking, or gouging the shafts with your tools or the new seals won't seal properly. That's why the drilled hole with screw method described works well, because you are pulling the seal straight out vs. trying to deform it and pry it out. Given the low cost of the seals, a high likelihood of a successful repair, and an afternoons work it's well worth the effort.
The box coupling has a tiny V notch in its lower edge that identifies where the master spline is. if my memory serves, with that notch top center the pin will be to the engine side of the coupling. There are drifts made for driving these type pins out. drive it out and back in from the top.My power brakes and exhaust manifold make top access difficult. Can you remove the roll pin from the bottom?
I use this method also.Good info - Thanks
Do you have a source for the seals?
That is good info but mine is leaking on the output shaft.I use this method also.
Drill a small hole for a sheetrock screw. (I think a 1/8" drill bit will work). Insert screw (I used a sheetrock screw) and it should come right out. Use a deep well socket to tap the new one in. View attachment 1715589221 View attachment 1715589222
1972 PLYMOUTH SCAMP 5.2L 318cid V8 Steering Gear Worm Shaft Seal | RockAuto
Thanks, my mistakeThat is good info but mine is leaking on the output shaft.
Sorry I don't have any experience with that. Maybe possible, but.......Same method?