440 Need help figuring out what cam is installed

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Well,,,,if you really must know the numbers,,,you could remove the rear cam plug and look at the numbers then .
Then seal and install a new plug .
It’s not really too hard to remove and replace the plug .

Tommy
 
Desoto291hemi said:
Well,,,,if you really must know the numbers,,,you could remove the rear cam plug and look at the numbers then .
Then seal and install a new plug .
It’s not really too hard to remove and replace the plug .

Tommy
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WINNER ^^^^^^

Or take the valve cover/rockers off the the driver side, set up a dial indicator and degree wheel and get some readings if you just gotta know
 
I was able to measure mine with a dial indicator and a degree wheel to get all the specs. Years later when I pulled the cam and got the numbers off it, everything matched what I had measured. It was a decent effort to do it, but not very difficult, just time consuming.
 
Mistabreeze said:
I did a search and Comp Cams puts ID numbers on the end of the cam. I'm going to pull the front cover and see if that's accurate or not. From reading other posts it seems important to know this info, or am I over thinking it?
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You'll need to pull a lot more than the front cover, since the numbers are not on the front of the cam.
 
72Duster440 said:
I was able to measure mine with a dial indicator and a degree wheel to get all the specs. Years later when I pulled the cam and got the numbers off it, everything matched what I had measured. It was a decent effort to do it, but not very difficult, just time consuming.
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Thanks. I'll read up on the process, and see if I can borrow the tools or buy them if not too expensive.

On a different note since you have a 440 duster. What headers are you running? Tti or Doug's.
 
I used a cheap dial indicator with a long extension piece to be able to put the probe right on the lifter and a small diameter degree wheel since I did it in the car. I would get a bigger wheel if the engine is out, it'll be easier to read. To mount it, I grabbed an extra crank bolt and drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 and attached the degree wheel to that, it saved me a few bucks over buying the adapter they sell. And a coat hanger bent for the indicator.
 
Thanks again, hopefully a buddy of mine has one I can borrow. I'm all about saving a few bucks when it makes sense.

What about the headers you run on the 440 Duster, Doug's or TTI? I've been researching that as well and found a lot of folks who like TTI and others who swear by Doug's and save a bunch in the process.
 
Mine had Schumacher tri y on there when I bought it. For the engine that is in the car they would have been fine.
I went with 2 " tti and they are in the car now. Overkill for this motor but I have one being built that can use them.
Header fitment depends on whether you are running power steering also. Tri y will fit with power steering,Tti will not with factory p.s.
Your motor would do well with the 1 3/4 Tti or the tri y's.
 
496 polara said:
Mine had Schumacher tri y on there when I bought it. For the engine that is in the car they would have been fine.
I went with 2 " tti and they are in the car now. Overkill for this motor but I have one being built that can use them.
Header fitment depends on whether you are running power steering also. Tri y will fit with power steering,Tti will not with factory p.s.
Your motor would do well with the 1 3/4 Tti or the tri y's.
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I'm leaning toward TTI, but they are not cheap for sure. Luckily Steve setup the Duster, before I bought it, with a new manual steering box and an upgraded bearing instead of the rag joint. It turns like no manual box I've ever messed with.

Just trying to get all the pieces together now and not make any costly mistakes in the process.
 
So, I took the engine to a local builder to have it checked out since I noticed what looked like grit in the lifter valley as seen through the distributor hole. He has it disassembled and found the black grit to be dead bugs in the valley and in the oil he drained out. It was never run.

He said the engine looks excellent otherwise, forged stock crank, KB237 pistons 10 to 1 compression 30 over, stock YA connecting rods, ARP bolts, rotating assembly is balanced. The 413 heads have been mildly ported with oversized valves, I think he said 2.02 intake but don't recall exhaust.

My question is what cam to run? He recommends a Hydraulic roller cam instead of the flat tappet he pulled out. Cam has these numbers on it, but I couldn't find any info on them: 241759. I tend to agree and have no issue putting a better roller cam/lifter that eliminates the potential for failure with the flat tappet.

I'm looking at Howard's cams on his recommendation, but unsure which one to consider. I found a couple, which he said sounds like a good fit, but I'd like to get some thoughts from the more experienced guys on the site. He's going to let me know the cc of the combustion chamber this weekend.

Howards Cams Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts 723515-12- Duration 219 int./225 exh at 050" lift, Lift .510/.500, Lobe Sep-112 degrees​

Fair idle, street/mild bracket, good low to midrange. 2,500+ stall, 9.5:1+ compression ratio.
or

Howards Cams Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts 720555-12- Duration 228 int./234 exh at 050" lift, Lift .525/.525, Lobe Sep-112 degrees​

Mild lopey idle, street/mild bracket, good low to midrange performance. 2,500+ stall.

Open to other suggestions, I'm no cam expert by any means. Kinda of leaning toward the second one since I like the sound of an engine where you can hear the cam.

Going to run a 3.55 gear with 28" tires and 2800-3200 stall converter. Just looking for a strong, reliable engine for street use in the 450hp +- range.

Thank you and I appreciate all the replies thus far.
 
You may find the availability of BBM cams being on the shelf somewhere to be spotty.

I’d check availability before getting your heart set on one.

Edit….. looks like Summit has that smaller Howard’s cam in stock.
 
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PRH said:
You may find the availability of BBM cams being on the shelf somewhere to be spotty.

I’d check availability before getting your heart set on one.

Edit….. looks like Summit has that smaller Howard’s cam in stock.
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Yes, those part #'s I listed are from Summit. First one is available now the second will be available in early March. Luckily, I'm in no rush.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Mistabreeze said:
Yes, those part #'s I listed are from Summit. First one is available now the second will be available in early March. Luckily, I'm in no rush.

Thanks for the reply.
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Just a note of caution. With a hyd roller, you will most likely need new valve springs in addition to the roller lifters. Did you ever get a read on lift/duration of your existing cam? If it were me, I'd strongly consider dropping the engine in "as is" and see where you're at before throwing a bunch of parts at it.
 
I hear ya, but I'm already moving forward and have the new roller cam, lifters, oil pump drive shaft, valve springs, 3 bolt roller timing set, and am waiting for new roller rockers to become available from comp cams. The engine builder recommended a couple mods to the heads, which already have been lightly ported and have over sized valves installed. Needed a bit more room for valve to piston clearance based on the new cam. Added positive valve seals had them pressure tested. I'm happy with the decision. The new roller rockers that were in there had issues with the rollers on 7 of them, hence why I'm replacing them. They are old comp cams roller rockers, and they do not make them anymore.

Appreciate the response. I'll post an update once it's back together and running, hopefully by this Summer.
 
i'm not a bettin' man, but i'd bet the house that the hydro cam in there is either a 480/280 or 509/290ish

to me that kinda matches up with the rest of the build and what would be readily available and not prohibitively expensive.
 
From the looks of it without any measurements it's a mild cam, nothing lumpy or radical. It is new as well as the lifters, and timing set he took out. I'll be listing them for sale at some point for a very reasonable price.
 
The original straight runner Torker intake manifold really gets crapped on nowadays. Truth is small plenum single plane manifolds- small plenum denoting street use- work very well. In fact I have somewhere in my home a Hot Rod Magazine from 1974? where Edelbrock has a 1 page ad for their "NEW Torker manifold for the 440." The write up is lengthy- but Edelbrock mentions how the 440s power has been reduced due to emissions and lower compression. They said their "New Torker 440" will bring back some of that lost power on the current low comp 440s. Then, they write: "Bolt on our Torker 440 to a stock high performance 440 Magnum and WOW!" Id at least try the Torker. Marketing these days had pushed the Performer RPM which is a fantastic manifold! But why spend $450 plus on it when that Torker will most likely make you happy with no compromises.
 
Michael Harrington said:
The original straight runner Torker intake manifold really gets crapped on nowadays. Truth is small plenum single plane manifolds- small plenum denoting street use- work very well. In fact I have somewhere in my home a Hot Rod Magazine from 1974? where Edelbrock has a 1 page ad for their "NEW Torker manifold for the 440." The write up is lengthy- but Edelbrock mentions how the 440s power has been reduced due to emissions and lower compression. They said their "New Torker 440" will bring back some of that lost power on the current low comp 440s. Then, they write: "Bolt on our Torker 440 to a stock high performance 440 Magnum and WOW!" Id at least try the Torker. Marketing these days had pushed the Performer RPM which is a fantastic manifold! But why spend $450 plus on it when that Torker will most likely make you happy with no compromises.
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Thanks for the info Michael, I agree and so does the engine builder. I'm going to run that Torker manifold and was surprised how light it is. Appreciate the response. Right now I'm waiting for the Comp Cams roller rockers to become available this month. Almost have all the puzzle pieces ready to assemble.
 
Mistabreeze said:
Thanks for the info Michael, I agree and so does the engine builder. I'm going to run that Torker manifold and was surprised how light it is. Appreciate the response. Right now I'm waiting for the Comp Cams roller rockers to become available this month. Almost have all the puzzle pieces ready to assemble.
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Back in the day and actually not that long ago the Crane and Isky iron Rocker arms were affordable and outstanding quality (when used WITHIN there design perameters) Both companies have not made them in a looong time but Mancini has their own set they sell. May be worth considering.Mancini Racing - B/RB Ductile Iron Rocker Arm Set
 
Michael Harrington said:
Back in the day and actually not that long ago the Crane and Isky iron Rocker arms were affordable and outstanding quality (when used WITHIN there design perameters) Both companies have not made them in a looong time but Mancini has their own set they sell. May be worth considering.Mancini Racing - B/RB Ductile Iron Rocker Arm Set
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Just took a look, only thing is they're not roller rockers. I do like the price tho :)
 
I honestly don't know that the rollers will make enough extra hp in your case to justify the cost.
I could be wrong but just my thoughts.
 
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