6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project

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'Cuda_ragtop said:
Life's Good! This is the only progress for a while... ;-)
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Polished and waxed our 5th wheel... front, back and one side. One side to go. Polished up the windows too.
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Had some good winds here last Sunday.
Looking out the window of our 5th/W. Had some gusts up to 40+ MPH recorded on our weather station.
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Home now for a few days then back to the Lake! :thumbsup: Will winterize and close up for the season this next trip over.
Close down until April 1st 2025 when we open back up. Our SeaDoo and our 8'x10' inflatable dock in the background. Lake is at it's lowest at the end of summer every year due to irrigation.
Still plenty of water to play in/on!
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View from our trailer's front yard. Can't work on the car when 200 miles away...
Love it here.
Been coming here every summer for 45 years now.
Next post will be car related for sure :)
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I got no problems with that at all. You have been quiet and just wanted to make sure all was well. Glad it is!
 
Finally got around to doing something with the car.
Last few days I worked on getting the reverse lamps and housings final install done. Got the passenger door lock installed, adjusted and working well. Decided to install the Tail light assemblies. They are from PG Classics, I put the Digitails LED conversions in them. Those all went together with not much of a fight or swearing...
Then I fit the Deck Lid Trim Panel... what a pain in the ***. The mounting holes in my deck lid didn't line up so several rounds of marking and test fitting and re-drilling. This was not the original deck lid to the car. I couldn't find a good non-rusted out 69 lid so we used a nice 68 lid that I was able to find. Nothing ever fits like it should and this deck lid and Trim panel and tail lights all leave room for improvement... ugh. Oh well, not going to worry about any of it now. Going to move on to something else to keep moving. Maybe down the road I'll see what can be done to match everything up better. Need to blackout the area of the taillight housings adjacent to the black of the trim panel. The housings come all chrome. They are very nice pieces. The chrome is really nice and seem really well made.
Tight quarters in my garage for photography... but here's a couple pics. Not too bad but I did manage to make a couple inside out dings in the brightwork of the trim panel. No matter how slow you go and no matter how careful you are, these aftermarket trim panels are very soft and very thin. Most people won't notice unless I point to them, so I won't point. ;-)

Side note:
When our son graduates from UW this June, we will be selling our home of the last 20+ years and will be moving out of gray, wet, high cost of living Western WA and over to Dry and affordable Eastern WA.
No more shitty traffic either. Will definitely be somewhere closer to our fifth wheel on Blue Lake.
Grant County, Ephrata, Soap Lake, Moses Lake area. Lots of wide open spaces.
Plan is to find a nice house with a nice shop... 40x60 shop minimum on at least 1.5 acres or more.
If we find the right house and property without a shop, I wouldn't mind building the shop myself.
Then I could build it exactly how I want it... we will see...
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'Cuda_ragtop said:
Finally got around to doing something with the car.
Last few days I worked on getting the reverse lamps and housings final install done. Got the passenger door lock installed, adjusted and working well. Decided to install the Tail light assemblies. They are from PG Classics, I put the Digitails LED conversions in them. Those all went together with not much of a fight or swearing...
Then I fit the Deck Lid Trim Panel... what a pain in the ***. The mounting holes in my deck lid didn't line up so several rounds of marking and test fitting and re-drilling. This was not the original deck lid to the car. I couldn't find a good non-rusted out 69 lid so we used a nice 68 lid that I was able to find. Nothing ever fits like it should and this deck lid and Trim panel and tail lights all leave room for improvement... ugh. Oh well, not going to worry about any of it now. Going to move on to something else to keep moving. Maybe down the road I'll see what can be done to match everything up better. Need to blackout the area of the taillight housings adjacent to the black of the trim panel. The housings come all chrome. They are very nice pieces. The chrome is really nice and seem really well made.
Tight quarters in my garage for photography... but here's a couple pics. Not too bad but I did manage to make a couple inside out dings in the brightwork of the trim panel. No matter how slow you go and no matter how careful you are, these aftermarket trim panels are very soft and very thin. Most people won't notice unless I point to them, so I won't point. ;-)

Side note:
When our son graduates from UW this June, we will be selling our home of the last 20+ years and will be moving out of gray, wet, high cost of living Western WA and over to Dry and affordable Eastern WA.
No more shitty traffic either. Will definitely be somewhere closer to our fifth wheel on Blue Lake.
Grant County, Ephrata, Soap Lake, Moses Lake area. Lots of wide open spaces.
Plan is to find a nice house with a nice shop... 40x60 shop minimum on at least 1.5 acres or more.
If we find the right house and property without a shop, I wouldn't mind building the shop myself.
Then I could build it exactly how I want it... we will see...
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Woot!! Love the progress and an update!

Moving my direction, I'm about 40 minutes west of Spokane on Highway 2. Funny thing is, I am thinking about moving myself...out of WA completely. Just an idea right now though.
 
DionR said:
Woot!! Love the progress and an update!

Moving my direction, I'm about 40 minutes west of Spokane on Highway 2. Funny thing is, I am thinking about moving myself...out of WA completely. Just an idea right now though.
Click to expand...

Davenport? or there abouts?
Idaho would be on my list of other states but if we leave Washington, there is a possibility we could move south to a warmer state... pretty much made up our minds for now though.
 
'Cuda_ragtop said:
Davenport? or there abouts?
Click to expand...

Yep. I list Spokane because most people know of that city while Davenport would require Googling it.

'Cuda_ragtop said:
Idaho would be on my list of other states but if we leave Washington, there is a possibility we could move south to a warmer state... pretty much made up our minds for now though.
Click to expand...

Friends and family keep us in the area or we would move further, so North Idaho would be where we would look if it happens. Just got my MIL and SIL moved to Rathdrum, they would be pissed if we picked up and moved south. I would be looking at Southern Idaho at least, otherwise.
 
DionR said:
Yep. I list Spokane because most people know of that city while Davenport would require Googling it.



Friends and family keep us in the area or we would move further, so North Idaho would be where we would look if it happens. Just got my MIL and SIL moved to Rathdrum, they would be pissed if we picked up and moved south. I would be looking at Southern Idaho at least, otherwise.
Click to expand...
We have looked at properties listed as Davenport but are actually unincorporated close to Lake Roosevelt.
Grand Coulee too. Lake Roosevelt View Property is a possibility too. Beautiful country looking right at Lake Roosevelt. Property with a large shop is a little harder to find there though.
Would like this to be our last move but could see us doing one more move downsizing to a waterfront house or Condo for our later years... maybe like 15-20 years from now.
 
'Cuda_ragtop said:
We have looked at properties listed as Davenport but are actually unincorporated close to Lake Roosevelt.
Grand Coulee too. Lake Roosevelt View Property is a possibility too. Beautiful country looking right at Lake Roosevelt. Property with a large shop is a little harder to find there though.
Would like this to be our last move but could see us doing one more move downsizing to a waterfront house or Condo for our later years... maybe like 15-20 years from now.
Click to expand...

I probably have more friends living north of Highway 2 than I do in town. :)
 
Painted the black on the taillight housings today. The come all chrome and need to be painted to match the trunk trim finish panel. Ours is black like a Formula S, just because I like the look better than the Argent Silver.
Scuffed the chrome with some 150 grit, spayed them with some Rust-Oleum Paint & Primer in one, flat black.
Did some test sprays with several flat or matte blacks to see what I had that was closest to the black on the tail panel. None were a perfect match but the Rust-Oleum paint & Primer in one, seemed closest to my eye.
Will let them dry overnight sitting on top of the cable box. Always warm and toasty on to of the cable box should dry nicely overnight.

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'Cuda_ragtop said:
Painted the black on the taillight housings today. The come all chrome and need to be painted to match the trunk trim finish panel. Ours is black like a Formula S, just because I like the look better than the Argent Silver.
Scuffed the chrome with some 150 grit, spayed them with some Rust-Oleum Paint & Primer in one, flat black.
Did some test sprays with several flat or matte blacks to see what I had that was closest to the black on the tail panel. None were a perfect match but the Rust-Oleum paint & Primer in one, seemed closest to my eye.
Will let them dry overnight sitting on top of the cable box. Always warm and toasty on to of the cable box should dry nicely overnight.

View attachment 1716361222
Click to expand...

Flat black applied to the taillight housings. Only a couple thousand more items to check off... ;-)

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Just a couple more pics... waiting for gaskets for the marker bezels. Ordered from DMT. I'm sure I have a set somewhere but gave up looking for them.

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It's a hard color to photograph in my garage. Please pardon the dog hair... looks like a scratch but it's a dog hair, we get those everywhere.
Looks like this from just a couple inches away. Top edge of the RR quarter panel.
Lots of different color pearls in there. Really sparkles in the sun, almost looks black in low light.
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72bluNblu said:
A 245/45/17 needs a 17x8 with about 5” of backspace to fit up front with 73+ disks. Any less than that puts them further out than the 275/35/18’s I run on my Duster, and there really isn’t much more room up front on a barracuda. It depends on ride height but those YO rallyes aren’t sized for A bodies at all. People have run them but they pretty much all run a narrow short tire with the ride height adjusted to clear.

The corner trim is a good idea on a Barracuda if you want to run wide tires up front, that part is more restrictive than the other body styles
Click to expand...
One more try...
Well I'm back to looking at trying to fit the YO 17x8 wheels on the front of the project car.
was talking to a friend and he suggested C-Body rotors. He measured one he had and said they give about .270" more BS plus the rotors are thicker, also a plus.
Took my 2 front wheels into a machine shop to have the back of the wheel mounting surfaces shaved.
The backs have a lot of material to work with. They have about 4mm that can be removed before getting flush with the backs of the bolt holes... Not sure why they are like that. There's a recess space on the back side behind each bolt hole. We are removing the 4mm of "Extra" material + another ~3.5mm, 7.5mm total.
I ordered (1) 73 C-Body Rotor off Amazon Prime, (Free Returns). Bendix PRT1072 Chrysler PN 3683969, crosschecked on Rock Auto. Hopefully that is the right rotor to match up with my 73 up spindles/bearings.
Combined, I calculate close to 4-13/16" final BS. Not quite the 5" target but will see how close that gets us.

Trimming the lower front corner of the fender is not off the table but it's an expense I'd like to avoid for now, if not all together.
 
Last edited:
'Cuda_ragtop said:
One more try...
Well I'm back to looking at trying to fit the YO 17x8 wheels on the front of the project car.
was talking to a friend and he suggested C-Body rotors. He measured one he had and said they give about .270" more BS plus the rotors are thicker, also a plus.
Took my 2 front wheels into a machine shop to have the back of the wheel mounting surfaces shaved.
The backs have a lot of material to work with. They have about 4mm that can be removed before getting flush with the backs of the bolt holes... Not sure why they are like that. There's a recess space on the back side behind each bolt hole. We are removing the 4mm of "Extra" material + another ~3.5mm, 7.5mm total.
I ordered (1) 73 C-Body Rotor off Amazon Prime, (Free Returns). Bendix PRT1072 Chrysler PN 3683969, crosschecked on Rock Auto. Hopefully that is the right rotor to match up with my 73 up spindles/bearings.
Combined, I calculate close to 4-13/16" final BS. Not quite the 5" target but will see how close that gets us.

Trimming the lower front corner of the fender is not off the table but it's an expense I'd like to avoid for now, if not all together.
Click to expand...

I don't think that's going to be an easy fix for you. C-body rotors use different outer wheel bearings than 73+ A body rotors. They use a different caliper as well, one that can work with the 1.25" thick rotors C-body rotors. And those calipers have a different bolt spacing than the A/B/E/F/M/J calipers do.
 
72bluNblu said:
I don't think that's going to be an easy fix for you. C-body rotors use different outer wheel bearings than 73+ A body rotors. They use a different caliper as well, one that can work with the 1.25" thick rotors C-body rotors. And those calipers have a different bolt spacing than the A/B/E/F/M/J calipers do.
Click to expand...
Well crap... then .300" is all that I'll get out of shaving the wheels.

Although, just now, when I looked up 17x8 mopar rallye wheels online, they show 4.5" backspace not 4.25"
I've always though they were 4.25" BS, 0 offset, but YO, Jegs, Classic Industries, and others say they are 4.5" BS, -6mm offset... Wonder if they changed or if they were always 4.5"?
Oh well, I will measure what mine are when I get them back from the machine shop next week.
If they were 4.5" BS and I gain another .300" I'll have 4.8" BS... hmmm just numbers. In the end, what matters is what tire will fit without rubbing... 235/45-17 maybe IDK but I'll find out "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"

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Same PN used wheel on EBay says 4.28" BS WTF? Weird but hey, par for the course.

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I think I'm close to a solution for the 73 C-Body Rotor, with 73 Up A/B/E spindles, Calipers and Brackets.
Just waiting on a couple parts before I can confirm...

In the meantime I spent a little time with some trial and error on a DIY Cold Air Intake.
Started with a couple versions of just heat shields but then decided to do a sealed box but without too many angles.
I'm pretty happy with this version mockup. The final will be either ABS or Sheetmetal, haven't decided yet. I have some sheet ABS so I'll try that first. Don't want a shiny aluminum tube, so it will be sanded and painted or powder coated wrinkle black. Need to drill for the MAF port first. The ABS sheet material I have has one side textured so will see if I like it before seeking to build one from Sheetmetal.

Nothing to hold the box in place yet. I'll add a couple hard mounting points to the finished box.
Straps or standoffs as needed. Will try to make use of existing bolt holes.

The box will have clearance space between it and every surface or component... Radiator, Fan Shroud, Core Support, Inner Fender, Alternator, Alternator Pulley... all have a decent amount of clearance.

I have a couple different ideas in my head for the lid.
1 - Plain Box Lid held on with simple thumbscrew knobs.
2 - Same as 1, but with Plexi window.
3 - Both above could be shoebox style lid.
4 - Or Flange the top of the Box so the lid can be a single flat piece of clear plexiglass.
I'm thinking transparent smoke color for the window, dark tint but can still be seen through.
Maybe a laser etched logo of The Mopar Swimming Barracuda, or some variation...

The Box will have a 4" inlet and 4" outlet, the air tube is 4" OD, my BBK Throttle body inlet is ~3.5" OD.
There is a just over 4" hole through the massive USCT core support (Supports my 26" Champion Radiator), I will connect the Core Support to the Air Box with a rubber or silicone connection, so it stays sealed and isolated from engine heat.

The air box is about 10-5/8" x 8.5" rectangle on top but the driver's side tapers inwards away from the inner fender. the bottom sits just above the drain hole that would be for the battery tray but I will use it to pass an airbox drain of of the engine bay.
The filter is pretty big, it has a 6" opening and is over 7" long.
The filter outlet uses an offset 6" to 4" reducer which makes it possible to mount near the top of the box.



Many thanks to @RealWing for blazing a trail for so many of us to follow.
Jim, if you are seeing this, A Great Big Thank You to you!
I find myself referring back to your build often.


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Stole this pic off the interwebs... just to eyeball the path of airflow. Picture angles are a little different but gives a good idea of the location behind the grill.
1741030296501.png

Should get some pretty good airflow through this location. Could extend the box inlet to the back of the grill but not going to worry too much about that for now. More on my to do list ahead of that. Not going to be a lot of space between the egg crate/parking light bracket assembly and the core support.

Now to see if I can build the Airbox out of ABS...
 
'Cuda_ragtop said:
I think I'm close to a solution for the 73 C-Body Rotor, with 73 Up A/B/E spindles, Calipers and Brackets.
Just waiting on a couple parts before I can confirm...

In the meantime I spent a little time with some trial and error on a DIY Cold Air Intake.
Started with a couple versions of just heat shields but then decided to do a sealed box but without too many angles.
I'm pretty happy with this version mockup. The final will be either ABS or Sheetmetal, haven't decided yet. I have some sheet ABS so I'll try that first. Don't want a shiny aluminum tube, so it will be sanded and painted or powder coated wrinkle black. Need to drill for the MAF port first. The ABS sheet material I have has one side textured so will see if I like it before seeking to build one from Sheetmetal.

Nothing to hold the box in place yet. I'll add a couple hard mounting points to the finished box.
Straps or standoffs as needed. Will try to make use of existing bolt holes.

The box will have clearance space between it and every surface or component... Radiator, Fan Shroud, Core Support, Inner Fender, Alternator, Alternator Pulley... all have a decent amount of clearance.

I have a couple different ideas in my head for the lid.
1 - Plain Box Lid held on with simple thumbscrew knobs.
2 - Same as 1, but with Plexi window.
3 - Both above could be shoebox style lid.
4 - Or Flange the top of the Box so the lid can be a single flat piece of clear plexiglass.
I'm thinking transparent smoke color for the window, dark tint but can still be seen through.
Maybe a laser etched logo of The Mopar Swimming Barracuda, or some variation...

The Box will have a 4" inlet and 4" outlet, the air tube is 4" OD, my BBK Throttle body inlet is ~3.5" OD.
There is a just over 4" hole through the massive USCT core support (Supports my 26" Champion Radiator), I will connect the Core Support to the Air Box with a rubber or silicone connection, so it stays sealed and isolated from engine heat.

The air box is about 10-5/8" x 8.5" rectangle on top but the driver's side tapers inwards away from the inner fender. the bottom sits just above the drain hole that would be for the battery tray but I will use it to pass an airbox drain of of the engine bay.
The filter is pretty big, it has a 6" opening and is over 7" long.
The filter outlet uses an offset 6" to 4" reducer which makes it possible to mount near the top of the box.



Many thanks to @RealWing for blazing a trail for so many of us to follow.
Jim, if you are seeing this, A Great Big Thank You to you!
I find myself referring back to your build often.


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Stole this pic off the interwebs... just to eyeball the path of airflow. Picture angles are a little different but gives a good idea of the location behind the grill.
View attachment 1716373462
Should get some pretty good airflow through this location. Could extend the box inlet to the back of the grill but not going to worry too much about that for now. More on my to do list ahead of that. Not going to be a lot of space between the egg crate/parking light bracket assembly and the core support.

Now to see if I can build the Airbox out of ABS...
Click to expand...
Glad to see you have "help" (referencing the dog) :thumbsup:
 
72bluNblu said:
Yup. A lot of the B bodies did, they can be used on A’s unless the caliper has the inlet on the very bottom. In which case you can still use the caliper brackets, just not that particular pin caliper.



The pads and pins should be the same for all of the different pin type calipers. The 73/74 B body pin calipers have the brake hose inlet of the bottom of the caliper, that particular layout does not clear on an A-body. If you buy rebuild calipers check to make sure they’re both the same and don’t have the bottom inlet, they’re not really separated according to the inlet layout the way they should be.
Click to expand...

Hey @72bluNblu, I have calipers with the inlet on the bottom. I haven't done the brake lines yet.
Does it make any difference that I am running QA1 lower control arms?
I actually have 2 sets of these remanufactured pin on calipers and brackets for 11-3/4" rotors.
Both sets have the inlets on the bottom of course...
Searched through a bunch of calipers on Rock Auto, and they all had the inlets on the bottom.

Is there a style of front brake line that I could try with these calipers and my QA1 LCA's?
Straight, 90°, banjo, etc.?? Otherwise I guess I'll need to hunt down another style of Caliper?
Is the a Chrysler PN that I would need to look for?

Thanks again as always.
- Randy
 
Picture of my 73 C-Body (New Yorker) 1.25" thick x 11.75" Rotor on my 73 up A-Body spindle.
Got a pair of adapters for the outer bearings from Doctor Diff. (They're Not on his website, you need to email or text him.)
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Had to remove a little material from the caliper brackets where the rotors touched. Marked in blue
Took off maybe an 1/8". It's a really beefy area of the brackets. The little material removed doesn't bother me.
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Looks like this without the caliper.
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Clearance of the rotor to bracket where I had to ground down the bracket.

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I removed almost 2mm of friction material from the inner pads in order for the rotors to fit between the pads.
The inners were about 2mm thicker than the outers.
I put one side together using both outers and they fit fine, so decided to sand down the inners to the same thickness as the outers.
I did try a different set of pads that were the same inner/outer thickness, Bendix, both the inners and outers were interchangeable, all 4 pads were identical... I think the ones I have are Centrix but I could be mistaken. They came with shims on them which I removed which helped with fitting.

Hopefully will be able to get my calipers with the inlets on the bottom to work...
More research and test fitting ahead...
 
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