Yup, 255/40-18 w/ 18x9 on the car now and it will clear a 285 on a 10 with the fender mod:
1968 Barracuda Front Fender Modification for 26" Tires
6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project
- Thread starter 'Cuda_ragtop
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Yup, 255/40-18 w/ 18x9 on the car now and it will clear a 285 on a 10 with the fender mod:
1968 Barracuda Front Fender Modification for 26" Tires
DionR
Well-Known Member
Any pictures with the EPAS unit and column mounted to the car? Struggling to visualize where it fits.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Sorry, I don't, and it's not in the car right now. Will post some when I mount it again.
This picture shows the orientation close to what it would be in the car.
It is the factory column bracket. The motor points towards the driver's side, angled up just a little.
Picture the 3 white plastic mounting bracket pads where they bolt to the car.
I drilled and tapped the Collar of the motor that is inserted into the column tube to have some flexibility in clocking the motor. (More than one set of mounting holes). This is the test fit position but I have an alternate position a few degrees different. The motor can be rotated to whatever position works best for your application. You decide the best position, then mark/drill/tap and bolt it together. Your mileage may vary... ;-)
DionR
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Trying to figure out how it mounts in regards to the bracket welded to the body and the pedal box. You mentioned clearancing some, just can’t pick out what. All good, just thought I would ask.
Thanks!
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
The only part I had to cut out for the EPAS was the shaded area of the column mounting bracket.
This had to be cut out so I could use the stock bracket with the EPAS motor attached to it.
Can't think of anything else that needed to be clearanced for the EPAS...
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Bought the Holley Hooker Blackheart 2.5" "X" Pipe Exhaust System.
Great price on their EBay Store. All 304 Stainless Steel, $278 plus tax, free shipping. All great so far.
This is the system they show on the website and ebay store.
X pipe looks like this
This is the one I received in my kit. Kind of a hybrid X/H combination... might even flow better than the standard X or H... IDK...
The 2-1/2" crossover tube is more like an exaggerated X but looks like the flow pattern is still closer to an X than an H to me. Still all good right?
Let's have a look inside shall we... looking into the short end of the X I can see the weld penetration of the crossover pipe and the tiny little hole they cut into the long pipe to allow the exhaust to crossover...
I could maybe fit one finger through that hole. The is an equally small hoe in the other side of the crossover..
Like this it's probably not any more effective than if there were no holes connecting the two pipes...
What I'll probably end up doing, is slice the crossover pipe right in the center, cut out following the welds. Put it back together when we install it. Maybe weld it, maybe sleeve it, maybe clamp it... will see depending on how the system fits the car...
Going to be incorporating electric cutouts into this system too.
Not the end of the world but kind of pathetic IMO.
Did they think no one would notice?
Is this how all of them are? FFS SMH
The rest of the system seems pretty decent. I laid it all out on the floor and was able to slip it all together.
These kits always require some tweaks, so I fully expect this one will too. Not just the crossover f'up...
Not ready to test fit it on the car yet.
I actually like the look and the concept of this crossover, it's just the execution that sucks.
Great price on their EBay Store. All 304 Stainless Steel, $278 plus tax, free shipping. All great so far.
This is the system they show on the website and ebay store.
X pipe looks like this
This is the one I received in my kit. Kind of a hybrid X/H combination... might even flow better than the standard X or H... IDK...
The 2-1/2" crossover tube is more like an exaggerated X but looks like the flow pattern is still closer to an X than an H to me. Still all good right?
Let's have a look inside shall we... looking into the short end of the X I can see the weld penetration of the crossover pipe and the tiny little hole they cut into the long pipe to allow the exhaust to crossover...
I could maybe fit one finger through that hole. The is an equally small hoe in the other side of the crossover..
Like this it's probably not any more effective than if there were no holes connecting the two pipes...
What I'll probably end up doing, is slice the crossover pipe right in the center, cut out following the welds. Put it back together when we install it. Maybe weld it, maybe sleeve it, maybe clamp it... will see depending on how the system fits the car...
Going to be incorporating electric cutouts into this system too.
Not the end of the world but kind of pathetic IMO.
Did they think no one would notice?
Is this how all of them are? FFS SMH
The rest of the system seems pretty decent. I laid it all out on the floor and was able to slip it all together.
These kits always require some tweaks, so I fully expect this one will too. Not just the crossover f'up...
Not ready to test fit it on the car yet.
I actually like the look and the concept of this crossover, it's just the execution that sucks.
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'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Made some new holes in the car. Reverse light housings are on.
Still looking for my reverse light sockets, that's another story.
If I don't find them I think I can cannibalize a pair of Mustang Front Marker light sockets to work.
They look really close to the same size.
Laid it out, marked up, drilled, added a little paint to the hole edges, installed some RivNuts and fitted up the 69 Barracuda Long style Reverse Light Bezels. (PG Classics)
I used Oval head 8-32 x 3" Stainless Steel screws and #8-32 Stainless Rivnuts instead of the factory method of sheet metal screws.
I think I got them pretty close enough to the original locations.
My 69 AMD rear valance came without reverse light holes, so I had to make my own. "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
Still looking for my reverse light sockets, that's another story.
If I don't find them I think I can cannibalize a pair of Mustang Front Marker light sockets to work.
They look really close to the same size.
Laid it out, marked up, drilled, added a little paint to the hole edges, installed some RivNuts and fitted up the 69 Barracuda Long style Reverse Light Bezels. (PG Classics)
I used Oval head 8-32 x 3" Stainless Steel screws and #8-32 Stainless Rivnuts instead of the factory method of sheet metal screws.
I think I got them pretty close enough to the original locations.
My 69 AMD rear valance came without reverse light holes, so I had to make my own. "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Decided to swap out the valve cover Allen Heads for T-30 Torx.
This is the closest/tightest one to access, next to the passenger inner fender.
An Extra Long T-30 Torx Ball Head Bit is the ticket here!
Close but accessible. I've heard some say they leave this one out...
Extra Long Ball Head Torx T-30 bit.
This is the closest/tightest one to access, next to the passenger inner fender.
An Extra Long T-30 Torx Ball Head Bit is the ticket here!
Close but accessible. I've heard some say they leave this one out...
Extra Long Ball Head Torx T-30 bit.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
One more item ready for installation. Disassembled, cleaned up, scuffed, painted and reassembled.
Had to remove the studs in order to use the Dr. Diff 2 hole to 4 hole master cylinder adapter.
Wilwood PN 261-13626-Bk Brake Master Cylinder Kit will be on the other side of the firewall.
Going Manual 4 wheel disc. 15/16" diameter bore.
Had to remove the studs in order to use the Dr. Diff 2 hole to 4 hole master cylinder adapter.
Wilwood PN 261-13626-Bk Brake Master Cylinder Kit will be on the other side of the firewall.
Going Manual 4 wheel disc. 15/16" diameter bore.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Almost ready...
Looks like I'm missing something here to connect the master cylinder to the brake pedal... hmmm.
FSM shows Power Booster connections but not how the master cylinder pushrod connects to the pedal for manual brakes.
Unless I missed it... which is totally possible, it's a big book.
Guess I will be doing a little more research. Can't be much to it. A threaded coupler, a threaded eye bolt and, another jam nut, a pin and keeper of some kind. The search is on.
Looks like I'm missing something here to connect the master cylinder to the brake pedal... hmmm.
FSM shows Power Booster connections but not how the master cylinder pushrod connects to the pedal for manual brakes.
Unless I missed it... which is totally possible, it's a big book.
Guess I will be doing a little more research. Can't be much to it. A threaded coupler, a threaded eye bolt and, another jam nut, a pin and keeper of some kind. The search is on.
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'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
I think I found what I need.
How did I live before Amazon Prime? $9.80 includes WA Sales Tax and free overnight delivery.
3/8 heim x 3/8-24 thread x 2.4" length with 5/8" jam nut.
I have 3/8-24 Nuts Bolts and Washers for attaching it to the brake pedal arm.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Well, I have not been able to locate my reverse light sockets... they will most likely eventually turn up but for now I found a backup solution... no pun intended.65-66 Mustang Front Parking light sockets... Not an exact match to the 69 Barracuda reverse light sockets but close enough that I can make them work.
My MIA light sockets, they'll probably turn up when the car is finished...
Searched for good used sockets but refused to pay $150 for crusty 55 year old sockets.
So I looked for alternatives and took a chance on these. Just from the look in the picture, I thought they might work. So I rolled the dice.
Winner winner!
Mustang front park/turn sockets.
Bought 2 of these from Summit for $15.99 each. Bought 2 "Right" side since they were the cheapest.
Link: CA MA15309
Mustang sockets removed from the housings.
I had to drill the holes for the set screws. Then I applied some silicone to the foam gaskets that go between the socket and the glass lens for a better weathertight seal.
This is what it looks like installed in the 69 reverse lamp chrome bezel.
Mustang wiring is 3/wire, Turn/Brake, Park and Ground, for 1157 bulb.
I'll adapt the 69 wiring to accommodate the1157 Turn/Park wiring and switch to LED bulbs.
Will either just use the Turn-Brake filament for reverse or combine the 2 hot wires and have reverse use both filaments for the Brightest possible reverse lights... I'll experiment with them a little first...
Thought about removing the swedged in 1157 bulb holders and replacing them with 1156 holders but decided to just run them as is.
Still a good chance I'll find my original 69 sockets as more and more of the boxes and bins get emptied out during reassembly...
If not, I think this will work fine as a permanent solution.
My MIA light sockets, they'll probably turn up when the car is finished...
Searched for good used sockets but refused to pay $150 for crusty 55 year old sockets.
So I looked for alternatives and took a chance on these. Just from the look in the picture, I thought they might work. So I rolled the dice.
Winner winner!
Mustang front park/turn sockets.
Bought 2 of these from Summit for $15.99 each. Bought 2 "Right" side since they were the cheapest.
Link: CA MA15309
Mustang sockets removed from the housings.
I had to drill the holes for the set screws. Then I applied some silicone to the foam gaskets that go between the socket and the glass lens for a better weathertight seal.
This is what it looks like installed in the 69 reverse lamp chrome bezel.
Mustang wiring is 3/wire, Turn/Brake, Park and Ground, for 1157 bulb.
I'll adapt the 69 wiring to accommodate the1157 Turn/Park wiring and switch to LED bulbs.
Will either just use the Turn-Brake filament for reverse or combine the 2 hot wires and have reverse use both filaments for the Brightest possible reverse lights... I'll experiment with them a little first...
Thought about removing the swedged in 1157 bulb holders and replacing them with 1156 holders but decided to just run them as is.
Still a good chance I'll find my original 69 sockets as more and more of the boxes and bins get emptied out during reassembly...
If not, I think this will work fine as a permanent solution.
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'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Some more reverse light stuff...
Here is a side view.
Installed into the car the socket passes through the hole in the valance. I just used a 9v battery to test.
Hard to hold the battery, phone and make contact with the wires to the battery and take a picture with only 2 hands.
This is directly behind the driver's side reverse light. This is turn/brake without park.
Turned off the garage lights for this picture. It's only a couple feet back. Seemed like a pretty good spread and plenty bright.
I still need to paint the inner rim of the reverse bezel black. These did not come pre-painted.
I'm also going to glue the rubber/vinyl gasket onto the housing before I mount them.
These are the bulbs I am using.
I think Matte Black for the inner ring... Maybe satin.
Whatever I have laying around handy...
Here is a side view.
Installed into the car the socket passes through the hole in the valance. I just used a 9v battery to test.
Hard to hold the battery, phone and make contact with the wires to the battery and take a picture with only 2 hands.
This is directly behind the driver's side reverse light. This is turn/brake without park.
Turned off the garage lights for this picture. It's only a couple feet back. Seemed like a pretty good spread and plenty bright.
I still need to paint the inner rim of the reverse bezel black. These did not come pre-painted.
I'm also going to glue the rubber/vinyl gasket onto the housing before I mount them.
These are the bulbs I am using.
I think Matte Black for the inner ring... Maybe satin.
Whatever I have laying around handy...
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
TCI - Today's Change Is...
Couldn't pass up a good deal on a pair of Gen3 Viper seats.
So the Neon SRT4 seats will be sold and will run these Viper seats instead.
I swapped the Corbeau A-Body Seat Base over from the SRT4 passenger seat to the Viper passenger seat.
I'll do the Driver's seat tomorrow. Have to grind the seat mounting brackets off the Viper seats but they bolt right up, mounting holes are in exactly the same place. Seat are very close in design.
The Viper seats are definitely nicer though.
Passenger Neon SRT4 seat next to the Viper Drivers seat.
Viper Passenger seat with the A-Body Seat Base and Driver's Seat still on the Viper mounting brackets.
These are going to be awesome in the Barracuda.
Couldn't pass up a good deal on a pair of Gen3 Viper seats.
So the Neon SRT4 seats will be sold and will run these Viper seats instead.
I swapped the Corbeau A-Body Seat Base over from the SRT4 passenger seat to the Viper passenger seat.
I'll do the Driver's seat tomorrow. Have to grind the seat mounting brackets off the Viper seats but they bolt right up, mounting holes are in exactly the same place. Seat are very close in design.
The Viper seats are definitely nicer though.
Passenger Neon SRT4 seat next to the Viper Drivers seat.
Viper Passenger seat with the A-Body Seat Base and Driver's Seat still on the Viper mounting brackets.
These are going to be awesome in the Barracuda.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
So, today I decided to hack up an extra Barracuda Rallye Dash Bezel.
Been thinking about how to incorporate a late model Challenger Gauge Cluster into the Barracuda.
A while back, a local custom stereo shop quoted me time and materials well into the thousands $$$... so I tabled the idea and went back to the original plan of Speed Hut Gauges in a "Classic Dash" aftermarket bezel.
This is my original planned gauge cluster. Plan was to paint it, since I would need to make my own glove box trim, and in order for them to match I was planning to paint them.
My Dash Frame.
But back to today's mayhem... I scored a couple Barracuda Rallye dash bezels and after staring at one for a while I decided to start cutting on it with my trusty oscillating multitool... a little at a time but eventually got it cut out enough to fit the Challenger Gauge Cluster.
2016 Challenger cluster.
Sound German Automotive set up my 8HP70 TCU harness with support for the Challenger cluster.
It won't have all of the Challenger functions but it will support; Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Trans temp, Coolant temp, Fuel level, Voltage, Ambient Temp and other Trans info.
Challenger cluster mocked up in the Barracuda Dash Bezel. Held together with some 100MPH tape...
Some refinishing, some custom bracketry and some custom trim to take the place of my duct tape...
There are a couple gaps that will need to be filled and blended in. Pretty ugly now but I think it can be finished to look pretty good. Just not sure how yet. Going to noodle that one a bit. I'm not an upholsterer or fabricator but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.
Going to eliminate the heater control holes and the radio cutout.
Music will probably be some type of Bluetooth Stereo with a minimal interface, haven't decided which yet.
Heater controls will be replaced with one of these Classic Auto Air Controls.
Been thinking about how to incorporate a late model Challenger Gauge Cluster into the Barracuda.
A while back, a local custom stereo shop quoted me time and materials well into the thousands $$$... so I tabled the idea and went back to the original plan of Speed Hut Gauges in a "Classic Dash" aftermarket bezel.
This is my original planned gauge cluster. Plan was to paint it, since I would need to make my own glove box trim, and in order for them to match I was planning to paint them.
My Dash Frame.
But back to today's mayhem... I scored a couple Barracuda Rallye dash bezels and after staring at one for a while I decided to start cutting on it with my trusty oscillating multitool... a little at a time but eventually got it cut out enough to fit the Challenger Gauge Cluster.
2016 Challenger cluster.
Sound German Automotive set up my 8HP70 TCU harness with support for the Challenger cluster.
It won't have all of the Challenger functions but it will support; Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Trans temp, Coolant temp, Fuel level, Voltage, Ambient Temp and other Trans info.
Challenger cluster mocked up in the Barracuda Dash Bezel. Held together with some 100MPH tape...
Some refinishing, some custom bracketry and some custom trim to take the place of my duct tape...
There are a couple gaps that will need to be filled and blended in. Pretty ugly now but I think it can be finished to look pretty good. Just not sure how yet. Going to noodle that one a bit. I'm not an upholsterer or fabricator but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.
Going to eliminate the heater control holes and the radio cutout.
Music will probably be some type of Bluetooth Stereo with a minimal interface, haven't decided which yet.
Heater controls will be replaced with one of these Classic Auto Air Controls.
DionR
Well-Known Member
As much as I loved the gauges of my ‘15 Challenger, not sure I can see it in the interior of an old car.
At the same time, I love the idea of more modern gauges with some additional info like what the CC speed is set to. Or even configurable screens in the same layout as the Rallye gauges where the speedometer and tach could be swapped depending on the activity.
Maybe if you could get rid of the original surround on the Challenger gauges so it looked kind of like the 2 big pods on the Rallye gauges?
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Not quite there but getting closer to the shape I want. I think it is turning out even better than I hoped.
Couple more rounds of filler and sanding and the whole thing will be ready for paint and woodgrain treatment.
A comparison of an uncut original and my work in progress. Who knows, maybe I'll build another one to sell?
Or I may just restore and sell the uncut one... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
Most if not all the stock functional gauges and indicators in the digital center display will be available.
Turn indicators, High and Low Beam, PRND-M, Coolant Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, DC Volts, Trans Temp, Outside Ambient Temp, Digital Speed along with Analog Speed and Tach... Not sure what else it is capable of yet. Russell Drake (Sound German Automotive) keeps adding more Cluster support all the time.
Couple more rounds of filler and sanding and the whole thing will be ready for paint and woodgrain treatment.
A comparison of an uncut original and my work in progress. Who knows, maybe I'll build another one to sell?
Or I may just restore and sell the uncut one... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
Most if not all the stock functional gauges and indicators in the digital center display will be available.
Turn indicators, High and Low Beam, PRND-M, Coolant Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, DC Volts, Trans Temp, Outside Ambient Temp, Digital Speed along with Analog Speed and Tach... Not sure what else it is capable of yet. Russell Drake (Sound German Automotive) keeps adding more Cluster support all the time.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Have you set it in the car yet? Curious if there is any interference with the steering column support. Seems like the original cluster would be deeper than the Challenger one so should be good, but not sure.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
I'll find out when I get my Dash Frame back from my painter... I don't think it will be an issue though.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
A little more progress today after spending the last couple days working on the yard.
Some glaze and a lot more sanding...
Then finally some Sem high build primer.
A couple boo-boos but they will get sanded out before painting.
Totally stoked at how this is turning out so far.
Some glaze and a lot more sanding...
Then finally some Sem high build primer.
A couple boo-boos but they will get sanded out before painting.
Totally stoked at how this is turning out so far.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Looks good. Better than I expected.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Clipped from a 2015 Challenger brochure. Apparently the A-Body Rallye Dash was somewhat inspirational to the 2015 Challenger Gauge Cluster. This was shared and pointed out to me by another enthusiast.
With CF overlay. Not what we will be using but since I had it, I decided to just lay it on for a couple pictures.
Not bad...
Lighting makes the CF difficult to photograph, but I think you get the idea.
Walnut Overlay ordered from DMT but don't have it yet...
With CF overlay. Not what we will be using but since I had it, I decided to just lay it on for a couple pictures.
Not bad...
Lighting makes the CF difficult to photograph, but I think you get the idea.
Walnut Overlay ordered from DMT but don't have it yet...
DionR
Well-Known Member
I wondered about that. Figured I was just thinking about it too hard.
What's the cluster look like separate from the part you molded into the bezel?
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Here is one on EBay.I wondered about that. Figured I was just thinking about it too hard.
What's the cluster look like separate from the part you molded into the bezel?
Here is one from a Hellcat Challenger.
For those that don't have a late model Challenger. They look like this in a Challenger Dash.
My surround for comparison. Obviously the Bezel I had to work with has some limitations for the shape.
Also having never done this, it was a learn as I go and all done just by eyeballing it.
I used disposable Cake decorating frosting bags to mix the J-B Weld in, and then extrude the mixture out through a small hole cut in the tip of the bag.
Building the layers up like a human 3D printer.
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