how are 3500 stall conveters sopasto act

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If you have an engine that turns the RPM's that require you to use a 3500 stall then you would have gears between 4:30's - 4:88's 3500 stall converters were designed for engines that have a power range of 3300-8000 RPM so the engine's RPM would be at the beginning of it's power range when you leave the line. If your engine's power range is lower than that, you are wasting horsepower with a 3500 stall and creating more unnecessary heat because the converter is slipping when the engine wants to go.

If his car runs good with that set up then it would run even better if the converter and gears were matched to his engines power range.



the new converters are so efficient its crazy. that converter was built for his car knowing he is running a 3.23 gear. its not just an off the shelf thing like the old days. heck i was running a a 9.5" dynamic converter in my dart. it was a 3800 stahl. had 3.91 gears and i never took that ***** over 6000 rpm. i thought that was nuts when i was ordering it but shawn at dynamic told me it will be perfect. you know what. he was right. that thing worked and worked awesome. my car drove like a car with a stock converter on the street and when you nailed it or launched it at the track you felt like you were shot out of a cannon. its amazing how well the new converters. besides that 3500 number is just a generic number if its an off the shelf converter. tq of the enigine and raise and lower what it will flash and stahl at.
 
bottom line - ATI said the same thing... i'd burn up any trans / converter if i tried this.... you know what? they were wrong!

I called Dynamic and ordered a 9.5" converter built to my specs. I HAD a mopar 2500 converter in it before - 3.23's and a 2500 mopar converter, that acted like, well what you guys were saying, sloppy, and no mpg. I've had this setup for 4 years and over 7000 miles now...

I swapped and I am here to tell you that was the best thing I ever did to my car.

The efficient 9.5" dynamic GAINED me 2 mpg over the 2500 mopar converter,

the cruising RPM at 50 mph also increased 400 rpm - THAT is efficient UNDER the 3800 RATED stall - i was crusing around 2200 at 50 now compared to 2600 -

I went from 12.80 to 12.56 at the track for my best ET's - and 1.87 to 1.74 60' times improved as well.

there was NO area the old, 30 year old technology was better then the new dynamic 9.5" -

when you say i would be faster with 4.88's your probably right, but I wanted a driver as well as a drag car, and I can do 75 mph with this car for hours on end, and I do, and still get 16 mpg.

Alot of you guys still are stuck in the past with the way of thinking converter wise, Its a shame because there is alot of new technology you are missing the boat on!

sign up and read this - its an issue Of Mopar Enthusiast Magazine - they let you read the issue FREE online, but you still have to " subscribe"


http://editions.amospublishing.com/MPRE/default.aspx?d=20080401
 
the cruising RPM at 50 mph also increased 400 rpm - THAT is efficient UNDER the 3800 RATED stall - i was crusing around 2200 at 50 now compared to 2600 -

I think you meant the cruising rpm decreased.. Lol
 
the new converters are so efficient its crazy. that converter was built for his car knowing he is running a 3.23 gear. its not just an off the shelf thing like the old days. heck i was running a a 9.5" dynamic converter in my dart. it was a 3800 stahl. had 3.91 gears and i never took that ***** over 6000 rpm. i thought that was nuts when i was ordering it but shawn at dynamic told me it will be perfect. you know what. he was right. that thing worked and worked awesome. my car drove like a car with a stock converter on the street and when you nailed it or launched it at the track you felt like you were shot out of a cannon. its amazing how well the new converters. besides that 3500 number is just a generic number if its an off the shelf converter. tq of the enigine and raise and lower what it will flash and stahl at.

I agree with abodyjoe a friend of mine has a 440 with a 4000 stall ptc converter,it acts just like abodyjoe said.
 
I had a custom 4000 stall in mychallenger and it worked better than my 3000 coan shelf converter! on the street and the track!
 
The problem is people spend a ton of money building their motor and trans then go cheap with an off the shelf converter. I think because they just don't understand about the new converters that are out there. For years it was pounded into our heads that anything over 3000 on the street is no good. Well those days are over. A converter built to your combo is the way to go now. the converter can make or break your combo..You can have the best of all worlds now. Yes they cost a little more (mine was $600 iirc) but that's nothing compared to some will pay for other stuff that won't help as much as the proper converter .Give dynamic, ptc or ultimate a call and talk with them. They should explain it pretty well to ya.. I know I questioned dynamic about their choice of a 3800 for mostly a street car. I asked all kinds of questions about it. They Assured me that it would be fine and it was. Car was more drivable on the street and an animal launching at the track. I took it on long highway drives,stop and go traffic whatever and that thing Acted like a stock converter on the street. I was amazed. Three or four friends were so impressed as to how nice it worked that they are now using the 9.5" dynamic also.

Read through that mopar enthusiast article. Lots of good info in it.
 
The original poster sounds like they had/have other issues. So I think using that example is probably not the best idea. Also, torque convertors are like underwear. What works for one person may not work for thier own brother... So saying "my buddy had XXXX" is also pretty much a waste of efort. The only way to make sure your convertor does what it needs to is to work with your convertor company and have one built for your spec. And to that end, you HAVE to KNOW what you're asking for. Dynamic has a "one size fits all" policy for it's "9.5" units. If you so much as mention racing it, they go high on the stall. At least that has been my experience. If you are not very specific.. like "I drive my car around town and drag race a few times a year. I'm not looking for lowest possiblt ET but rather a nice cruiser with a little slip when the throttle is openned". I have sent back two to them to lower the stall speeds because the original owners ordered them saying "I drag race it and I want it to go quick.. and I drive it on the street." After restalling they were much happier with the products. It's because of that that I use Lenny at UCC now. He asks the right questions rather than relying on the customer to relate reality.
 
Your right the original poster has most likely trans issues. We got side tracked onto the converter subject. Guess everyone has good luck with someon different. You with ultimate. But I can honestly say my dynamic worked great in my car. Don't know what other questions could have possibly been asked when I ordered the convetere. There was a whole list of things weight,cam,gears,intended use... Etc...etc...etc. The most important thing when ordering a converter is to be 100% honest about your combo and the intended use.
 
i was told if ya want a little more rpm conveter you could go with a /6 conveter it will stall a little higher is it right
 
and thats exactly the 40 year old technology we are talking about. There are MUCH more efficient ways to achieve the same goal.
 
the new converters are so efficient its crazy. that converter was built for his car knowing he is running a 3.23 gear. its not just an off the shelf thing like the old days. heck i was running a a 9.5" dynamic converter in my dart. it was a 3800 stahl. had 3.91 gears and i never took that ***** over 6000 rpm. i thought that was nuts when i was ordering it but shawn at dynamic told me it will be perfect. you know what. he was right. that thing worked and worked awesome. my car drove like a car with a stock converter on the street and when you nailed it or launched it at the track you felt like you were shot out of a cannon. its amazing how well the new converters. besides that 3500 number is just a generic number if its an off the shelf converter. tq of the enigine and raise and lower what it will flash and stahl at.

bottom line - ATI said the same thing... i'd burn up any trans / converter if i tried this.... you know what? they were wrong!

I called Dynamic and ordered a 9.5" converter built to my specs. I HAD a mopar 2500 converter in it before - 3.23's and a 2500 mopar converter, that acted like, well what you guys were saying, sloppy, and no mpg. I've had this setup for 4 years and over 7000 miles now...

I swapped and I am here to tell you that was the best thing I ever did to my car.

The efficient 9.5" dynamic GAINED me 2 mpg over the 2500 mopar converter,

the cruising RPM at 50 mph also increased 400 rpm - THAT is efficient UNDER the 3800 RATED stall - i was crusing around 2200 at 50 now compared to 2600 -

I went from 12.80 to 12.56 at the track for my best ET's - and 1.87 to 1.74 60' times improved as well.

there was NO area the old, 30 year old technology was better then the new dynamic 9.5" -

when you say i would be faster with 4.88's your probably right, but I wanted a driver as well as a drag car, and I can do 75 mph with this car for hours on end, and I do, and still get 16 mpg.

Alot of you guys still are stuck in the past with the way of thinking converter wise, Its a shame because there is alot of new technology you are missing the boat on!

sign up and read this - its an issue Of Mopar Enthusiast Magazine - they let you read the issue FREE online, but you still have to " subscribe"


http://editions.amospublishing.com/MPRE/default.aspx?d=20080401


I understand there is a lot of new technology out there and if your combination is working for you, great!

But I here a lot of people that are running a stall converter to compensate for lack of gears to keep the car streetable and that is not the way to go, that is what overdrives are for.

If your converter is stalling/slipping during ANY of the engines power range then that is wrong, you are loosing horsepower and performance. If your engines power range is lets say 2500-6000 you want that converter to be fully engaged by 2600 or the engine is producing power that is being lost in the converter and not making it to the rear wheels, you can have as much new technology as you want but if the converter is slipping/stalling even a little during the engines power range, you are loosing power. PERIOD!

That's all I am saying and I know some will disagree. Everyone has their own opinion which is what makes the world go around.
 
Exactly why you should have one built to your combo and specific use.

The newer good converters allow you to run a high stahl and still lock up/ not slip on the street. It's designed into the converter. Read that mopar enthusiast article. It explains it very well.
 
what Joe said.. .positive pitch, and blade angle, as well as the stator have alot to do with it...
 
perfect example :

joe - 360 , 3.91's 28" tall tire dymamic 3800 converter @ 50 mph 2400
me - 360 , 3.23's, 26" tall tire, mopar 2500 converter @ 50 mph 2400

when i went to a dynamic 3800 it dropped my crusing rpm by 400 rpm - thats alot less heat, wasted rpm, and mileage by switching to a new type of converter...

i guess you;d have to be in my seat to appreciate it though...
 
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