Mr Feff

That is how I bleed them. Maybe the bore is wrong and/or stroke on your master cylinder. Oreilly's show to have the master cylinder for your car. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...art&vi=1088186 This would be assuming that you still have the 1970 Kelsay Hayes disc brakes.

I have forgotten, what is your actual car? When bleeding the brakes, what order are you bleeding each wheel in? 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th?

Hi! Welcome to the site!
I'm not the most active member here nor the most knowledgable for sure but I'll try to answer you though. I'll assume that your changing out a 7.25 for the 8.25? If so then yes there is a difference in the axle centerline to yoke-ujoint center

The centerline to yoke-ujoint measurement for a 7.25 = 10.09" & for a 8.25 = 11.69" therfore the driveshaft should be shortened by 1.6"

When I did mine I actually manually measured what I needed my driveshaft length to be by putting the car on ramps (so that the cars weight was on the tires) and putting the yoke into the trans all the way then backing it out about an inch. I then measured the distance between the ujoint centerlines to get the required driveshaft length.

I did compare my actual measurement with my calculated measurement (mine was 7.25 to 8.75 which is a different measurement than 7.25 to 8.25) I must say it was very close and would have worked either way.

Anyway, I hope that helps.

Troy

I don't have the measurements. On one of the threads there is a list of drive shaft lengths. I have no idea how accurate it is. Did the car the 8 1/4 came out of have a 904 trans? If so it should fit if it was 111 inch wheel base car.