Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
So a few of these explosive bastards,wire shards in my forearms,face,hands,and 50 80 grit pads. The busted knuckle duster now looks like this,and is ready for bodywork,and paint. Hoorah!
the"Busted knuckle duster"
- Thread starter Cool Hand
- Start date
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So a few of these explosive bastards,wire shards in my forearms,face,hands,and 50 80 grit pads. The busted knuckle duster now looks like this,and is ready for bodywork,and paint. Hoorah!
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Is that can of Seal a brushable seam sealer or Epoxy primer ? Just curious.
I had to go all the way to Reno toget a 70 Dart that was rust free, Good luck looking good
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Rust prevention. It coats the metal seals it so it won't t rust. You can even paint it over rust spots and it kills it in its tracks. I like to use it on the spots that are likely to rust in the future,and that I won't be able to easily get to again.
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Already have 17 x10s under there. Gives me 11 inches of rubber. Should be good for a track street car. Did let the thought float around for a minute
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
are those the donut looking wheels you got on there?
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Ya the smoothies. The tires on them right now are mockups though. Gonna paint them ,and put center caps on them to make them look reminiscent to the old rallies. Atleast thats the plan right now. We will see how it looks. The smoothies just painted satin black with a pin stripe would give it a stockcar look which I also like.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Hardly any sidewall on those tires, I'm guessing that works in your favor here
I'm not a big fan of em right now, but who knows, they might grow on me
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Ya for sure I agree but when I get the new tires on them the sidewall will be about 3.5 inches. Perfect for the road course. Great handling,and enough cushion to handle the pot holes I have to live with at home. Always liked the old school 15's,or16's, but the disk brakes I have on the car need 17's or larger,and I kinda like knowing I can stop.
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
So started plumbing the A/C. Nostalgic a/c parts had all the weird s#!t I needed to make a 74 a/c work with a sanden compressor, and a stock chrysler srt8 condenser. Ordered the wrong fitting for the compressor (faces the wrong way) so I couldn't finish the job but I'm closer. I also got the expansion tank mounted so I can get all the plumbing together for that now which is good. We also started stripping the doors,and trunk lid. Gonna do hood ,and fenders tomorrow. Once I have those stripped,and mounted I can get my gaps perfected,and start slinging filler,and primer.
won't let me post the other pics for some reason. Will try later.
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Don't know what this security error is all about but it is seriously annoying. It won't let me post random pics WTF. Oh well check in with you all on the next step.
What's the best approach to stripping a panel? Top side and bottom side. I am not sure of the right tool or grit?
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
We use a carbon steel wire wheel on a grinder for most of the bottom side,and to get any compound curves,and edges. After that we hit the rest with a D/A sander, and 80 grit. If you run the sander nice and flat you can find most of your low spots,and dingers. I make a note of where the big low spots are before I dig and strip it completely. Some old paint can get gummy if it gets to hot so move the wheel around to a fresh area if that starts to happen, and go back to it after it cools a bit.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. The project looks awesome!
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Try to get on yhe site every few days. There are allot more pics on our Facebook page, aswell as our other projects. Cool hand customs. The site has helped me so much I try to help back when I can
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Finished stripping paint today. Except for front vallance. Doors, and front fenders mounted with clean painted hardware. Just need to mount,and align trunk,and hood. Then she waits for her opening to get to the bodyshop side of shop. The site still won't let me post pics because of some security error message. I will try one more time then I quit.
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
The following error occurred
Security error occurred. Please press back, refresh the page, and try again.
20210410_193308.j
Why does this keep popping up when I wanna post pics? Worked fine till last week. I am not doing anything differently. WTF
Security error occurred. Please press back, refresh the page, and try again.
20210410_193308.j
Why does this keep popping up when I wanna post pics? Worked fine till last week. I am not doing anything differently. WTF
Hopefully a mod can help. I hate not seeing the progress. 
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
So been a minute since we got to work on the duster. So this last week we got a few pain in the *** stuff done ,and sorted out. Finished the a/c lines. Plumbed all the fuel lines. Installed the sonnax adapter for driveshaft ,and speed sensor from sound german engineering. Mounted,and hooked up the remote oil filter. Figured out the power steering lines,and got that mostly hooked up. All except the large return line. (Need a piece of 3/4 id hose. Tried the recommended 5/8 hose all it did was bloody up my knuckles trying to fit it on the pump). Ordered my transmission lines from carrid, and lastly picked up my rad hoses from napa. Gonna finish up trans lines ,and rad hose install on Tuesday when the rest if the parts show up. Will post pics then. That just leaves figuring out the heater hoses and overflow tank.
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Does any one have suggestions for the trans dipstick on a nag1,or the dipstick for the milodon pan swap. I have a dipstick on the driverside that bolts to the header bolt. Fits decent looks nice but not sure it will operate correctly and it gets stuck going back in.
I've got a Benz with a Nag, and no dipstick. I bought the tool for checking. Hard to get my head around that one.
Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
Do you have some info on it. Did you get it from dealership? If I even new how far the dipstick went past the tube i could fill it and check it . Nobody knows anything at the dealership around here makes me wonder if they even know how to check them when they come in for service.
So here is the idea........The tubes vary in length between models. There is a bulge on the tool just before the part that goes into the oil (dipstick part". The tool gets pushed down until that bulge reaches a restriction (can't go any further)where the tube enters the transmission. This places the "dipstick part" into the oil. When hot, the "dipstick part" is covered almost to the bulge. Here is a reference pic of the tool the numbers don't really man anything. There are all kinds of them out there, but all have the same idea. I have a drawing of the relative measurements that I will try to find and post.
I agree, the dealers have no idea what they are talking about. I had a leak at the electrical connector and had no idea how low the trans level was. I went to the dealer and had to help the guy work the tool down the tube (it barely fit). It came out with just a drop on the tip and he said it should be Ok.......LOL, I bought a tool and do it myself now.
Took a couple of pics for you. This is the tool that I bought. The little bulge at the top of the measuring tip is 0.3 inches OD. The bulge keeps the stick from getting inserted too deep. When my vehicle is hot, the trans level runs at the 2 inch mark (probably could go a hair higher). When it has idled for 15 minutes from cold, it reads at the 1.25 inch mark. The other pic is a spare NAG that I have. As you can see, the oil level sits at the very top of the transmission case with the tube removed. This is of course once the converter and cooler are filled. Hope it helps.
BTW.......These trans are notorious for converter shudder. Just be aware if you feel something funky when you are driving. Apparently not a damage issue, more like an annoyance. It doesn't happen to them all, and there is an additive you can use to deal with it.
BTW.......These trans are notorious for converter shudder. Just be aware if you feel something funky when you are driving. Apparently not a damage issue, more like an annoyance. It doesn't happen to them all, and there is an additive you can use to deal with it.
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