Cool Hand
Well-Known Member
So a few of these explosive bastards,wire shards in my forearms,face,hands,and 50 80 grit pads. The busted knuckle duster now looks like this,and is ready for bodywork,and paint. Hoorah!
I had to go all the way to Reno toget a 70 Dart that was rust free, Good luck looking goodNice job. I love them rust free Texas cars too. That pile of takeoff parts would be great for somebody wanting to swap in a V8. Maybe offer a package deal on Fabo for the whole mess. If I lived closer than I do (Abilene Tx) I'd run out there with my pickup and load up.
Rust prevention. It coats the metal seals it so it won't t rust. You can even paint it over rust spots and it kills it in its tracks. I like to use it on the spots that are likely to rust in the future,and that I won't be able to easily get to again.Is that can of Seal a brushable seam sealer or Epoxy primer ? Just curious.
Already have 17 x10s under there. Gives me 11 inches of rubber. Should be good for a track street car. Did let the thought float around for a minute
Already have 17 x10s under there. Gives me 11 inches of rubber. Should be good for a track street car. Did let the thought float around for a minute
Ya the smoothies. The tires on them right now are mockups though. Gonna paint them ,and put center caps on them to make them look reminiscent to the old rallies. Atleast thats the plan right now. We will see how it looks. The smoothies just painted satin black with a pin stripe would give it a stockcar look which I also like.are those the donut looking wheels you got on there?
Hardly any sidewall on those tires, I'm guessing that works in your favor hereYa the smoothies. The tires on them right now are mockups though. Gonna paint them ,and put center caps on them to make them look reminiscent to the old rallies. Atleast thats the plan right now. We will see how it looks. The smoothies just painted satin black with a pin stripe would give it a stockcar look which I also like.
Ya for sure I agree but when I get the new tires on them the sidewall will be about 3.5 inches. Perfect for the road course. Great handling,and enough cushion to handle the pot holes I have to live with at home. Always liked the old school 15's,or16's, but the disk brakes I have on the car need 17's or larger,and I kinda like knowing I can stop.Hardly any sidewall on those tires, I'm guessing that works in your favor here
I'm not a big fan of em right now, but who knows, they might grow on me
What's the best approach to stripping a panel? Top side and bottom side. I am not sure of the right tool or grit?So started plumbing the A/C. Nostalgic a/c parts had all the weird s#!t I needed to make a 74 a/c work with a sanden compressor, and a stock chrysler srt8 condenser. Ordered the wrong fitting for the compressor (faces the wrong way) so I couldn't finish the job but I'm closer. I also got the expansion tank mounted so I can get all the plumbing together for that now which is good. We also started stripping the doors,and trunk lid. Gonna do hood ,and fenders tomorrow. Once I have those stripped,and mounted I can get my gaps perfected,and start slinging filler,and primer.View attachment 1715720491 View attachment 1715720492 won't let me post the other pics for some reason. Will try later.
View attachment 1715720499
We use a carbon steel wire wheel on a grinder for most of the bottom side,and to get any compound curves,and edges. After that we hit the rest with a D/A sander, and 80 grit. If you run the sander nice and flat you can find most of your low spots,and dingers. I make a note of where the big low spots are before I dig and strip it completely. Some old paint can get gummy if it gets to hot so move the wheel around to a fresh area if that starts to happen, and go back to it after it cools a bit.What's the best approach to stripping a panel? Top side and bottom side. I am not sure of the right tool or grit?
Try to get on yhe site every few days. There are allot more pics on our Facebook page, aswell as our other projects. Cool hand customs. The site has helped me so much I try to help back when I canThanks for taking the time to reply. The project looks awesome!
Do you have some info on it. Did you get it from dealership? If I even new how far the dipstick went past the tube i could fill it and check it . Nobody knows anything at the dealership around here makes me wonder if they even know how to check them when they come in for service.I've got a Benz with a Nag, and no dipstick. I bought the tool for checking. Hard to get my head around that one.
So here is the idea........The tubes vary in length between models. There is a bulge on the tool just before the part that goes into the oil (dipstick part". The tool gets pushed down until that bulge reaches a restriction (can't go any further)where the tube enters the transmission. This places the "dipstick part" into the oil. When hot, the "dipstick part" is covered almost to the bulge. Here is a reference pic of the tool the numbers don't really man anything. There are all kinds of them out there, but all have the same idea. I have a drawing of the relative measurements that I will try to find and post.Do you have some info on it. Did you get it from dealership? If I even new how far the dipstick went past the tube i could fill it and check it . Nobody knows anything at the dealership around here makes me wonder if they even know how to check them when they come in for service.