MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
Nice build, great thread!
How much boost are you running?
What’s your total timing?
How much boost are you running?
What’s your total timing?
What did he do with the stock distributor? Gut it and add a sensor inside? I have extra stock distributors I could gut. The next thing I would still need a crank sensor right? But I could always get an msd crank trigger for that I suppose.Its a hugh learning curve at least for me with EFI, I just used the jeep cam position sensor with mine, I forget who made the adaptor to it or I have the one Mad Dart made with a stock distributor, if you want to use that you can. Coil near plug is the way to go with some ls coils, the MS3 drives them no problem, get some aluminum valve covers and drill and tap or if you tig weld some threaded bungs on them and mount.the coils there like mine if you want or off to the side like Chris did on his awesome car.
Thanks, trying to keep it below 10psi with pump 91, 32 total pulling 1° per psi after 4psi. Pretty tame.Nice build, great thread!
How much boost are you running?
What’s your total timing?
Yep exactly I'll post up a pic for you on what he did. Yeah get a 36 tooth crank wheel, Megasquirt sells them as well too along with all the sensors.What did he do with the stock distributor? Gut it and add a sensor inside? I have extra stock distributors I could gut. The next thing I would still need a crank sensor right? But I could always get an msd crank trigger for that I suppose.
Man, I can relate to that... It's unfortunate you had to switch back to gas from E85 due to availability, because you can get away with cruising a bit fat on E and it won't foul plugs or run dirty. I battled my cruise AFR a few years ago, trying to clean it up. Just like yourself, I had idle and WOT dialed. I went down on main jet, but as I suspected, I was cruising on the idle circuit, so going down on primary jet didn't do anything. I had to restrict fuel to the transfer slots by reducing the idle feed restrictors. I measured mine, they were pretty large at .035" (as it came from Holley). I got blanks and started at .025" and the car was coughing on cruise, too lean. I'm almost positive I landed at .029" for my car. If your car is just fat on the gauge, but is cruising smoothly and without fouling plugs and hiccupping from being too fat, I'd almost be inclined to leave it, if you can live with it. But if you're like me and you gotta make it right, the above was the right path for me.yeah i'm not relying on the water/meth.. it's just there as insurance (as much as I want to put all the boost to it, I'm trying to make things work right first. lol). But Honestly i'm tired of the carburetor being too rich then too lean. I have it very nice at idle and WOT with boost now, but the mid range cruise is just super fat. It was really bad, but I sorta got it to cruise around 11.8-12.2. Frustrating. So I think i'm going to make myself an EFI setup with MS3 as a winter project. Right now i'm reading, learning and creating parts lists. Not sure if I want to try and make a cam sync setup and make a coil near plug setup or just stick with the MSD 6 programmable and let the MS control it.
I'm a tinkerer.. and I check plugs pretty often. So if I know there is a problem, it drives me nuts.Man, I can relate to that... It's unfortunate you had to switch back to gas from E85 due to availability, because you can get away with cruising a bit fat on E and it won't foul plugs or run dirty. I battled my cruise AFR a few years ago, trying to clean it up. Just like yourself, I had idle and WOT dialed. I went down on main jet, but as I suspected, I was cruising on the idle circuit, so going down on primary jet didn't do anything. I had to restrict fuel to the transfer slots by reducing the idle feed restrictors. I measured mine, they were pretty large at .035" (as it came from Holley). I got blanks and started at .025" and the car was coughing on cruise, too lean. I'm almost positive I landed at .029" for my car. If your car is just fat on the gauge, but is cruising smoothly and without fouling plugs and hiccupping from being too fat, I'd almost be inclined to leave it, if you can live with it. But if you're like me and you gotta make it right, the above was the right path for me.
Lol same here... check those idle feed restrictors! It's a lot simpler than swapping to EFI (and I'm an EFI guy too)I'm a tinkerer.. and I check plugs pretty often. So if I know there is a problem, it drives me nuts.
Im certain I can make it work, But I also want data logging. I figure by the time I get a data logging setup the way I like it and the carb just right. I could have spent just a bit more and moved the system up a notch. Plus it would be fun. I'm pretty sure I can sell my e85 blow through carb for a good bit and cover the ms3 And harness lolLol same here... check those idle feed restrictors! It's a lot simpler than swapping to EFI (and I'm an EFI guy too)
I was contemplating that today. Using the stock mag distributor and cover the top or making a plate. But I still need to figure out a crank trigger wheel? I'm assuming it would bolt on behind the pulley. Or be attached to the pulley.. which may be more of an issue.I love my ms3 and all of the extra built in features that negate the need for all of the other extra “boxes”. For cam sync I use the factory Magnum distributor. Easy peazy.
I have the CAD for the trigger wheel somewhere. I had it laser cut and then machined the back of the balancer a bit to allow a good fit and tacked it in place.I was contemplating that today. Using the stock mag distributor and cover the top or making a plate. But I still need to figure out a crank trigger wheel? I'm assuming it would bolt on behind the pulley. Or be attached to the pulley.. which may be more of an issue.
You’re going to want a little better accuracy on a trigger wheel than a plasma can do. I’d suggest water jet or laser.This is the balancer I have
DODGE PowerBond PB1004SS PowerBond Race Performance Harmonic Balancers | Summit Racing
The lip would be a good place to set a ring and tig into place. I wonder if I can get someone to cut one out on a plasma table. I'll have to check around town and see if anyone wants to tackle it.
might be easier to get this 8 1/4" 36-1 Crank Trigger Wheel (Options: Slots or No Slots) and have someone cut out the middle.. although it does have the balance hole , not sure how much that would affect it.You’re going to want a little better accuracy on a trigger wheel than a plasma can do. I’d suggest water jet or laser.
With how popular EFI is now in the aftermarket, I find it hard to believe that no one makes a trigger wheel that will fit your balancer. Just a quick google image search for 36-1 trigger wheel shows hundreds of them.might be easier to get this 8 1/4" 36-1 Crank Trigger Wheel (Options: Slots or No Slots) and have someone cut out the middle.. although it does have the balance hole , not sure how much that would affect it.
I thought that too, till I tried looking for some ready made units for small block mopar. lolWith how popular EFI is now in the aftermarket, I find it hard to believe that no one makes a trigger wheel that will fit your balancer. Just a quick google image search for 36-1 trigger wheel shows hundreds of them.
Yea you’ll have to find a small block Chevy or LS balancer that has similar dimensions to yours.I thought that too, till I tried looking for some ready made units for small block mopar. lol
That’s damn clever.Here's those pics that mad dart did for a stock distributor.
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That is a good idea...Here's those pics that mad dart did for a stock distributor.
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