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sure, why not. i'd give it 50/50 on fit in that i think 13's were equipped with 9" drums.

you're not re-drilling a OE wheel but trailer wheels would work. however a lot of those have like no backspacing. so good luck. especially with the already confined wheel wells of an early dart and the wider rear end.

for starters they won't bolt up without the use of the adapter. the 13's are gonna have a 5X4" bolt pattern and the ford bolt pattern is 5X4.5

**pending**

i'd say that 2nd pic from what appears to be under the sill plate is probably about the best representation of what untouched day one paint looks like on that car.

is it?

**one sold, one still avail**

$22 + shipping

last call at $600

**the more silver one on the RH of the top pic is sold** other is still available

last call at $20

checked as well, only one i have besides stuff in the 20's and 30's is a 57

always worth a look because those are a known culprit! a miserable job (i mean, not nearly as bad as a rear main, but still) so plan on lots of brake clean and rags. it's even more fun if somebody has plumbed in the pick up for an aftermarket pressure gauge!

i'll paw thru my stash and see what all i've got as well.

can confirm. not overbearingly loud, nice sound overall, good tone, gruff enough to let you know there's a V8 and you can hear it from about half a block if you're on it. pretty quiet inside even under accel.

tti sells 'em or they have a document with measurements to modify your own. here's the link: https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Classics_ComAccRep.htm#ZB

currently being discussed here: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/tti-shorty-headers-vs-dougs-long-tube-headers.564700/#post-1974739179

PM incoming

you make a valid point.

^^^ this. this right here. will it work? yeah, sure. but where's the trade off? cool, you made an extra 19hp at 6200rpm but it sucks to drive at anything below 3500.

scamp is on the same platform as the dart: 111" wheel base

i was able to loop it back from the amazon number to another listing that gave a Aisin number, but it kinda dead ended there with just a generic "this is for 60's thru 70's mopar passenger cars" kind of description. they're sold by buyautoparts.com (yes this is an actual legit business) that...

both great tests for overall condition of the motor, but add in a combustion leak detector and you'll have the whole story. you can rent the tool from vato zone or amazon/harbor freight sells 'em cheap too.

it looks like an amazon special. https://www.amazon.com/Steering-Gearbox-Challenger-Plymouth-Chrysler/dp/B0C4V1WGX4?tag=fabo03-20 i have no idea what it is, or who makes it. ETA: pic

^^ i concur. run it and see what transpires. i had a motor that just got a top end and it had very thin band of milkshake on dipstick every morning for a good while till it eventually boiled out all the funk and everything sealed tight.

remember, he operates on the beetle juice principle.

i dead *** laughed so hard i farted and startled my cats *wipes tears from eyes* good one, there

you stay outta my hood homie! i'd tackle the running/over heating first before the leak as long as it's not too egregious. yank that t-stat, run some motor purr drive & flush thru there (per the directions on the bottle), slam in a new t-stat and see where you're at. sounds like a solid...

i'd love to see some of them .940 bars in the flesh.