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I am getting pretty hard of hearing, but if we still had the audio systems AKA like in our old Zenith console, I would not have any problems. My current TV has two speakers about 1 1/2" X 3" that point straight down. I actually "got into" it and tapped RCA jacks into the...

OK let's start over. What this sounds like is that you HAVE A BREAK in the output or "charge" wire from the alternator to the battery So the basics of what you want to do is this: 1...Determine if the output/ charge path from the alternator to the battery is OK 2...Determine if the VR...

I often joke, remember when the TV picture was crappy, small, and snowy and the speakers were large and the audio was GREAT? Now we have big, clear great picture, and crappy, lousy, tiny speakers and I CAN'T HEAR THEM!!

Those are not critical. NAPA has generic ones. If you are not fussy about "restoration correct" you could use one out of a distributor. Better would be to gut that can, and use an electronics plastic film one. Value not critical, .02--.2 microfarad and I would use at least 200v

No no no not with MSD. If you are running a CD NOTHING and I mean NOTHING else should be connected to the coil except the two MSD box wires Not even the tach Whatever you are using for a switch to get "run" power out into the engine bay is what I'm calling "run" or "switched...

OK well what regulator do you have? If you have the once popular Mopar race regulator, you wire it like a pre 70. In other words GROUND it, the ign lead goes to switched 12V AKA key, "ignition run" and the field lead goes to either field connection on the alternator. Ground the...

Kinda sort do. l "Dakota digital"

Could be a bad capacitor (condenser) in the distributor. I do not use automotive/ OEM style caps in my outboard motors. I use plastic "electronics" plastic film. Sprague "orange drop" are good ones. Try to "get ready" to test as soon as it quits. Get a WIRE core wire to test...

For starters you need to post just what is "my car." If you do not have one, run over to MyMopar.com and download the closest year/ model service manual you can find there. You may have to accept Plymouth vs Dodge, etc. Also go to the wiring section and download the aftermarket...

See if I can simplify With engine key in the "run" position, and engine running, ONLY the IGN1 "run" terminal of the key is hot out in the engine bay. Depending on car model, this feeds the VR for the alternator, and the ballast and on to the coil BUT THAT IGN1 GOES DEAD when you...

Even so, all these race sports, pretty much across the board, are safer than they were some years back.

Just to be technical, you were not electrocuted, or you would not be typing this. You would be dead But be CAREFUL. Some modern ignition systems actually generate enough power to be lethal.

Agree. Checking spark. I like to get "right to the coil" so to say. Use some sort of actual wire to temp. replace the coil secondary wire. Rig that to some sort of test gap. Crank the thing, and if you can, use a wide test gap, 3/8 to 1/2" The thing should make nice hot blue...

Thanks! THAT DIAGRAM (and there are similar ones) is SOMEWHAT MISLEADING. At upper right where it says "start position of ignition switch" it is important to realize that they are talking about the IGN2 contact, and that it is "live" in the start position. There has been confusion...

And also, most SBs actually have a long string STAMPED into the front of the driver side block, right below the head parting line. The first ?? 2-4 figures have the CID coded right into the number, unless it was a rebuild and marked out

Are you actually using Taylor wire? Different wire, can be different resistance. "Back in the day" the "go to" universal cut-off figure for factory wires, used to be no more than 1000 ohms per foot, and I don't think I ever found any that high, unless just open. If possible, photos of...

Well and I was going to say ground the cluster, by employing a dedicated ground pigtail. Other than that, you moved something or shorted something, and damaged the IVR circuit.

Has it been converted to electronic ignition, or a better question, WHAT IS the ignition you are using, AKA bone factory stock breaker points, or "some other", or some sort of electronic, and just what is that? The IGN2 ballast bypass circuit is a great place to start as posted above...

Zero chance you should re-use that TUBE. And you should take a very jaundiced look at the rest of the tubing, as well. I recently replace all the brake tubing in my 04 GMC which otherwise is very low rust. The tubing was a mess. I would guess that GM's recent choice of...

It has been a LONG time since I've worked with any of these, and most (refrigeration, then) compressors I dealt with were small enough not to use them.......... But why cant you remount your starter in a large enough box "if needed" and then find and overload that can be mounted...

What Greg (TB) said The way I read what you are contemplating, you have the two shafts parallel WITHOUT load. You want the two parallel UNDER load. So if the trans is 5 down (sounds like a lot, I agree with Greg, TB, I'd try and raise that) then you want the pinion down maybe...

Damn. Plus and minus. He is only a year younger than I, and part of that may well be birthday month. A quick search "may" have shown that no other driver is even close to John in age, in top fuel.

I would as well. Those technically/ legally are never supposed to be removed, except under the watchful eye of the gobt

You are a lot further along than I am!!!

EDIT LOL You and I were typing at same time Get down to the basics, compression, fuel, spark. Maybe the cylinders are fuel washed. Maybe run a compression check on 2 or 3 easy to get to. Certainly throw a little fuel down the carb, and fuel been sitting may be a problem, make sure...

That car cannot be fixed. You need to ship it up here to me I would adjust both/ all 4 drum brakes up tight, bleed the brakes, and see what that gets, then slack off the adjusters until they rub "lightly" and go from there. If you are unfamiliar with drum brakes they can be quite...

What many guys do is use the 68/ later gasket, which fits all the way to 76. You must but the retainer clips for the 68 and later trim, and of course drum up a set of the 68 and later trim as well. Here's one thread...

A big part of the problem is the games the gobt/ EPA is playing with equipment/ refrigerants. It is a multi prong spear. They are screwing around with refrigerants, and these require somewhat different/ specialized repair/ maintenance procedures and equipment, as well as recovery...

Almost sounds like you put tension on the column harness connectors and damaged or pulled out some of the terminals. I would start there, both the ignition connector and the TS connector.

I would change the rear gear, or figure out why the engine won't pull off the line. Here's an example. In the 70's I swapped a bone stock 71 (high compression) low miles 340 into what was my 70 440-6 RoadRunner. You are talking about a fairly heavy car, the "hemi" 18 spline box...