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I'm not going anywhere. Of my group of racing friends I'm the only one who doesn't own a Mopar at the moment. I am keeping my eye out for a valiant wagon though, to build a daily driver. One of my buddies gave all kinds of crap for making the swap. I told him that if he keeps it up I'm gonna...

It's been running with the LS since late August. I did it to try to be more competitive in my class (Daily Driver) at Drag Week. Turns out I would have been ok with the 360, but I would have had to spray every pass to try and make the field so after registering (in May) I decided to change up...

I think part of the area you lost power was in your fuel selection. You're only at 11.3:1 (IIRC) so fuel with that high of an octane rating is not necessary. If you were still on cast iron heads, maybe, but not so much with aluminum since they dissipate heat better. I think that's the reason...

What else is done to the engine and car? What car is it? C'mon, you're not going to get any real advise until we know what you've already got. Tell us everything you know about the car as it sits, and THEN we can help point you in the right direction. Lots of smart guys on this site. Are...

If you're just wanting some more compression, why not just spend the money on the heads? I'm no expert on the older small blocks (myself and all my friends run magnums) but I'd look into seeing how much the heads can be milled before spending money on swapping pistons. With a good mill and...

Both are good pieces.

He founded K1.

Flatlander Racing has the K1 forged crank for $630 (awesome price for a nice crank IMO). You don't hear about them much in the Mopar world (well I haven't anyway), but they're considered a step or two above Scat, Eagle, etc in the Chevy world. http://flatlanderracing.com/

If you decide to go this route I built a jig to drill magnum heads for the LA pattern. You're welcome to borrow it.

That doesn't seem right. I had the same intake and did not have that problem. Bad casting or maybe the carb stud holes are drilled wrong would be my guess. Do you have a dual plane carb gasket you can lay on there and take another pic?

NOS Super Powershot is a good affordable kt.

Where does the cam start opening the intake valve? Possible PTV issue?

This is not a question that can be answered here. You, or your engine builder, need to measure for the correct length pushrods. There is no other way unfortunately. Way too many variables.

I use fogging oil. You can pick it up at most auto parts stores. Spray a little bit down into the cylinders and rotate the motor a few times by hand. It doesn't take much, just a spray lasting for about 1 second in each cylinder would be fine.

The better heads will still outweigh the "want" for more compression. You can always have them milled though.

Yes, at minimum an intake manifold swap (M1 or Airgap) and 55mm throttle body. I run around with a bunch of Dakota guys who all run 408s and that seems to be it. They also run SCT tuners on the stock ECU. A great place to learn more would be http://www.dakotart.com/forum/index.php They know...

Btw that's a huge jet spread on your carb. I don't know the stock jetting for your particular carb, but it's possible you're either slighly lean on the primaries, or over rich while on the secondaries, or both. A general rule of thumb for a carb that has a powervalve in the primaries and no...

That picture, though a good general reference, is wrong on one thing. The part that says "lean wot" is not correct and you cannot tell by looking at the top of the porcelin. To properly read wot you must look deep down inside the plug where the porcelin meets the bottom. There will be a...

Looks rich and undertimed to me (initial timing anyway). To be honest you can't tell much unless you cut the engine and pull the plug for a certain condition. If you want to know how it's doing at WOT then after a pull you slow down and cut the engine off as quickly (safely) as possible. Same...

The book you linked is a good one, lots of pictures and detailed. Buy it.

You're going to get several answers but the NGK V-Power ZFR6E-11 (Later Magnum/Dakota R/T plug) is a good safe choice. They come pre-gapped at .045 btw. You could try the NGK FR4 (spec'd for early Magnums) but I found them to be too hot. I'm partial to NGKs (easier to read), but the Champion...

Yup your headers will work. That intake also work but the heads would need to be drilled/tapped for the LA bolt pattern.

Good point you make. (Think, Yoda voice)

That's a good trick. The only reason I mentioned he pull the intake is because he's in the middle of installing a new one so pulling it shouldn't be much of a hassle.

No problem using your 904. If the engine you get doesn't have the correct flexplate (comes on later year magnums) then the one I mentioned in the other post would work fine. You mentioned that you've already got a carb and intake, what are they? If the intake is good there is a way to run it...

Installing a helicoil is easy. Cast iron is soft so drilling and tapping doesn't take much effort. It would be a good idea to pull the intake to catch the shavings though.

Hear me out on this. Consider swapping to a 5.9 (360) Magnum instead of rebuilding your 318. For one the Magnums can still be found in good running condition fairly easily, and a 100k mile motor can just be freshened up with new rings and bearings without having to send the block to the...

I agree

The VR1 will have much fewer detergents conpared to the Rotella, so you may need to change the oil more often. One thing you can do to make sure is to send off a sample for a used oil analysis (UOA). If you switch to the VR1, send off the used Rotella and they will tell you if it was doing its...

That would be it, though it looks to be $5.99/qt at your local Autozone. Imo you're overthinking it and would personally have zero issues continuing to use Rotella T.