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I have been getting the connectors from alternators at the pull-a-part. The terminals can be removed easily, they are the locking tab type. Waytek sells the terminals (p/n 31073), but there is a 50pcs min. With the replacement terminals, you can either fabricate a pigtail or run the wires...

On a small block, there's a bushing in the block that wears out and causes dist. wobble. It's cheap, but can be a pain to change. Look down in the dist. hole an see if it looks out of round.

That is a good setup. I am going to have to rewire my trans-brake and delay box and will also add that along with some other mods. Just been to busy/lazy to do it.

C130 Chief is right. If you live near an airport that has a maintenance operation, they should have some. Those bulbs are used by the hundreds in small airplanes for instrument panel lighting and press-to-test indicators.

Don't bet too much money on that.

Sorry about that, there must be a difference in later years. My 75 Duster has 168s, unfortunately my 69 Dart doesn't have the lights.

#168 bulbs. Should be available everywhere.

I haven't had any problems re-using the old harness.The interior harness is not exposed to the environment of the underhood harness. If the insulation is flexible and the wire is still shiny and hasn't turned green, it is good to go. Unwrap the harness and place a ty-rap at every branch so you...

I am currently rewiring a car that was in the process of melting down. I run an 8ga wire through the firewall with an insulated stud, then cut the factory multi-splice and run the wires to a bus bar. This gives an easy access point for any add on accessories. This and an alternator upgrade will...

It eliminates the overloaded spade terminals and the possibility of a gauge failure killing the power. This type of repair is about all you can do without getting into a major rework.

Yes, but each system has it's own wire, not the entire load on two wires.

This seems to be a touchy subject for a lot of people. The original mopar ammeter setup was a bad idea. The entire current load of the car went through a 1/4 inch spade terminal into the gauge and back out through another spade lug. this is more current than these things are rated for. In about...

I have a 360 in my drag car with a very high compression, probably 12.5 to 1. I only get about 30 starts before the starter grinds and goes bad. I have been wearing out Autozone with their lifetime warranty, but it's time for me to get a real high performance starter.

Here are some pictures I have of the external IVR and filter capacitor (condensor) mounting. The capacitor has a spade lug on the end of its lead that plugs into the middle slot on the PC board. When the capacitor is properly mounted, it will usually only reach the correct slot. I hope this will...

The wiper switch is made of two three position switches linked together. Unless you have a pretty good electrical background, building one of these can be a formidable opponent.

The 1157 and 2057 bulbs are rated the same in amperage and brightness (lumens) for the "brake" filament. The 2057 has a slightly lower amperage rating and brightness in the "tail" filament.

Connect one ohmmeter lead to the electrical connector and the other lead to the mounting flange. Move the float slowly and the resistance should change smoothly from about 10 ohms in the full up position to 73 full down. I have one car without a gauge (fuel cell) and I keep a log book of miles...

You need a fuel gauge calibrated for empty 73 ohms and full 9.6. Also Cockpit Royale gauges have a graphics style from the 1930's and may look a little out of place in your car, but we're all different.

If it reads correctly at empty and full travel outside of the tank, then it must not have the correct travel for the tank. Measure the sending unit from the mounting flange to the float in the full drop position, then measure the depth of the tank from mounting flange to the bottom. The...

This is what I have. On the headlight switch, D:dome/int light, I: dome/int light fuse, H: to headlight high/low switch, B2: park/tail fuse, R: park/tail lights, P: not used, B1:headlight power. On the wiper switch, B: is power, All other wires go to the motor and maybe you can just match up...

Holy crap! wire nuts and Scotchlocks

The early bi-metal type gauges were sensitive to voltage fluctuations. If the alternator was putting out 14v and you turned on lights/heater/wipers and the voltage dropped to 12v, the gauge would read differently. The IVR put out a constant 5v and the gauges were calibrated to 5v, so they would...