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Personally, I've never used a roller to put on anything but latex on my house. I've not heard of it being done in my neck of the woods. But then again I don't live where there are stringent EPA standards either. I don't know why you wouldn't be able to roll anything on though, aside from the...

"is 2K primer surfacer the same as epoxy primer or is it high build primer?" No. 2K is just an industry name for modern 2 component, urethane high build primers. Epoxy primers, in my opinion, should only be used as the first coat sprayed directly onto bare, clean, prepped metal, with body...

As it's been stated, rattle cans don't have a hardener in them, otherwise they'd be hockey pucks on the shelf. Any product that has a hardener/catalyst is going to be more durable than a product that just dries. It's the difference between curing and drying. Think concrete without Portland...

Actually the water cleans out the "dust" from the areas between the aluminum oxide that comprises what makes sand paper, sand paper, and doesn't allow the paper to be clogged with material, soft talc, that will make it so that the grit doesn't contact the surface, but just push around the...

You do want to step up in grit as you go, 80-150-220-320/400-600. I like to finish with 600 on a DA, otherwise you can end up with straight line sanding scratches. Wet sanding is problematic in my opinion, sometimes you end up with the dried up ooze in all the wrong places and it is much...

400 wet, is like 320 dry. 320 with cheap lacquer rattle cans = very bad shrink back and sanding scratches that will be visible from the next state over. You'd have to spray it, sand it, and then let it sit in the sun for a month, and then do a second coat, sand it, and then let it sit in the...

Find a good glass installer.

$4,000 ÷ $80 shop rate = 50 hrs. ÷ 2 = 25 hrs. per side to cut off the old one, including all the old spot welds (pain in the ***) and then fit your new quarters that don't fit for ****, and I really mean that, making sure that all of the reveals and body lines are perfect, so that your trunk...

At Maaco, doesn't a "good" prep job consist of washing the bugs off the front and maybe washing it with a single piece of scotch-brite?????

And where water puddles, dirt accumulates. Moist dirt and leaves/debris is a good breeding ground for rust. Plus it just pi$$es me off to see all that water just sit there and not drain.

I hate the fact that a good deal of water ends up with no place to go on the lower right and left of the fastback glass area. When I took my car apart I could tell that the gasket had leaked and let in water and I had rust on the inside. I thought about drilling a hole on either side at the...

I almost forgot, but another tip that might save you a little $$$$$, is if you get a good tintable sealer that is close in color to your topcoat, you can cut down on the amount of basecoat you will need to achieve complete coverage. Also when you get that inevitable rock chip, they don't...

A good demonstration of a products propensity to "shrink" is to leave an inch or so in the bottom of a pint mixing cup. Let it cure, and then look at the size of the hockey puck left compared to the size of the container. Do this with lacquer and a high quality urethane 2k primer and you will...

I like to see body filler over the epoxy primer. I don't know how many times I've removed someone else's body filler from way back, and under it is a rust patch, body filler has been known to suck up moisture out of the air. Regardless you will end up with some bare metal spots once you start...

Egads!!!!! Unless you like shrink back and sanding scratches and delamination, don't use a lacquer primer under a urethane paint. Look for a "2K" primer. Starting from bare metal, you can put an epoxy primer down, then body filler where necessary, then a 2K primer, sand, 2k primer, sand...

"Good paint brands that won't break the bank" You can find them right next to the unicorns and the leprechauns. With the runup in crude oil, all chemicals have gotten expensive. If you want a decent clear that isn't too expensive, try and find Five Star brand. It's a universal clear and...

And wait a month to apply the stripes so that the paint has plenty of time to cure first. You don't want to deal with solvent pops under vinyl stripes.

Yeah, Bob's your uncle there. I've usually only used epoxy as the first coat to bare metal. There are far, far better sanding 2K primers out there that won't end up making you wish to commit suicide after blocking a single panel and destroying your abrasives budget.

You can always get around that by adding 1:1 clearcoat/single stage in some paint systems on the final coat. Pigments are heavier than clear, so the clear settles out on top and you can color sand and buff all the dirt nibs and peal that you want without effecting the metallics. But if you're...

Single stage or basecoat/clearcoat system??? If it's single stage, they can be a real PITA sometimes depending on the color. I usually only do single stage for solid colors and BC/CC for all metallics. When you try to paint a single stage metallic you are sometimes fighting two competing...

I've been there and feel your pain.

Oxy-Acetylene torch out of the question huh????:mrgreen:

USCG Charger, PM sent.

Yeah you can take a pic and I can see what it'll take. Drop me a PM and I'll give you my email addy. Thanks.

I have a parts 67 notchback that I've already cut the rear valance out of for my 68 fastback. If you can't find any repop pieces anywhere let me know and I could get the sawzall out.

Well there are two camps when it comes to body filler. Some body guys will only put body filler (I use Rage) onto bare metal. Some will tell you that because body filler absorbs water that that is not a good thing to have right on top of bare metal (promotes rust) and most good epoxy primers...

OK I'll bite. First off I think you have the order of products a little bit out of order. TRIO prime is a self etching primer that is designed to eliminate the metal conditioning step that the Twin Etch is supposed to do. You don't need to do both and you definitely don't want to put it over...

I always use a transparent sealer like Diamont DS30 or its equivalent or a tintable sealer. It adds adhesion promotion, helps fill sand scratches, and if you're shooting a color that is prone to taking 37 coats to hide, then the tintable helps out on the BC usage. While it's not what I do to...

Rage is good stuff, go with it.

Newer paint technology versus older paint technology. AU replaced AE. Acrylic urethane is the better paint but will cost a little more money. But is should last longer. I used to paint Ford Vans for an electrical contractor using Martin Senour Acrylic enamel but with what they called...