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Magnificently written. Thank you!

Green bearings are the foundation upon which every vehicle since the Volkswagen Beetle has been built. We owe green bearings our gratitude! Let's give green bearings a great big hand!

It's funny... I've seen plenty of blower drives that used bolts with no keys.... And never one that used keys with no bolts.....

Came to post about the valve to piston concerns. Drilling a hole? Brilliant. Done. Thank you!

I just want to see how the coil overs do with all that extra weight and no torsion bars. That said, I'm also curious why you're ditching t bars when you're running such a narrow motor.

As I read that, the line that says "in case the key way is too long..." kindda sums up my point and even elaborates that long continuous keyways contribute to shaft twist. A long keyway cut for single sliding key is pretty detrimental strength wise, where multiple half moon key slots is a much...

I'm not a crank engineer, but just looking at it, I'd venture that it creates fewer stress risers than a single large keyway.

These are the things to derail a thread over. For sure.

I can't believe the demand for these pickups now. It's nuts

You can do the big pattern disc brake swap using '73 and later A/E parts (and arguably FMJ spindles), and just use the factory 10.87" rotors without up sizing to the 11 3/4" rotors, and keep the 14" wheels, if my memory is correct. It'll stop just fine that way. I would DEFINITELY recommend...

Welcome to the site! It'll be nice to have someone from the industry who can vouch that this or that stupid design was because management has to save a few bucks, not because the engineers are stupid. A Body Mopars are the most fun to work on and drive on a dollar to smile basis. Enjoy!

To further that, I've seen big block cams that were assembled without the dowel and never lost time

That's not really how it works.... Modern engines, my foot. (other than that, DemonX2 is 100% right). The key was never designed to carry load, ever. The sprocket bolt that clamps the cam sprocket to the cam is what makes the spinny-magic happen. The clamp load from sprocket to cam is what...

That's how the old MP manuals said to do it, if memory serves. And as RRR mentioned, degree first, then order your key.

I've seen little blue or green condoms that go over instrument bulbs for back light color on some cars, but I don't recall seeing that on Mopars. Someone more knowledgeable will be along to expand or correct this.

This. I've found out months after the fact that they've responded, but I didn't know because they didn't quote or PM me. So, technically I'm guilty.

The bulbs were always white/uncovered. There might be tape over the turn signal markers depending if the original car had fender mounted indicators.

Got any close-up photos of the synchro teeth? What I used to think of as 'good enough' turned out to be way bad.

You working on an '06 Charger or a '73 Super Beetle?

Were these ever offered in Polyurethane, or are y'all running the Moogs?

About $200 if I'm not mistaken.

I just want to say Bravo to you, OP, for looking up the specs. So many 'mechanics' these days can't/won't do that, and that's the hallmark of a conscientious worker.

That's a reverse gear with the chipped teeth. I'm no expert but I don't think I'd sweat that. How are the synchro teeth on the gears?

Whereabouts in Kansas? That's a big state....

Just don't ever drive it and park it indoors with a dehumidifier.

I smell....not a fart....but it's a similar odeur.... It's a familiar smell....like milk left in a bowl in the hot sun... Or maybe some cabbage you forgot about in the back of the crisper drawer..... I smell a thread de-railin'.......

It'll get better, man. I promise.

I'm just here for the green-bearing slap-fights. For some reason, the Ford forums don't have those.

7/16"? I forgot about that. Do what's necessary to use the 1/2" stuff that's been used for the last fifty years.

They're all forged, 100%.