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I could be totally wrong about this, but with my car, I think I could have the engine out sooner than if I had to pull the pan out of the way...........I think. Not to mention, that thing will drip drip drip for days! Doesn't sound very,,, "joyful",,, to me.:BangHead:

Rusty's right on the money. That little window on the cap is for adjusting points dwell on a Chev.

Stuck needle? Drain the bowl and pull it off. Easy.

Moroso. Blue rubber(not cheap, disintegrating rubber) with a steel core. Pricey but worth every penny. Last you for longer than ya got left! Unless you over torque them.

In a Demon/Dart, all you need to do is detach 1 side of the motor mount, jack up that side a bit, and remove the bolts. Repeat on other side. Don't think your engine compartment is THAT much tighter.

A cam like this would be a good start. I run BAM solid roller lifters and they are great. Nice big roller end, rebuildable and reliable.

1 sleeve in mine. Run the snot out of it 5 summers now. 11.25:1 compression. Wish it had 8 sleeves.

I happen to have a Custom ground Bullet solid roller with dyno time only, sitting on my shelf.. Right in your specs you mentioned. If it might work for ya, I can post some pics and the cam card. It's pretty rowdy. Whatever you do, don't do a hydraulic roller. I don't know why the heck they even...

now that you mention it.........I think the original owner IS Greg. I don't know why I keep thinking Rick........my bad.

Just call Rick at Superformance. I believe they are Viton. It's been awhile, maybe you can't get him on the phone anymore........ Worth a try.

Yep. Think Ritter, Callies, Diamond, T&D. Then another buttload for torque conv and really beefed tranny. Ford 9 inch, back half, Alterkation front. Full cage, huge slicks, skinny fronts.... Just look at 9secRR's setup. my credit card hurts just looking it over!

I think 600ish with a good block, some oiling mods and the aforementioned girdle is not a problem. I've been beating on mine for 4 seasons. Long drives with wifey, all the cruises, and all the local yocals who wanna try me. I have a SCAT forged crank and H beam rods. I'm afraid of no man nor...

I tried the poly locks from Mancini years ago and bent the hell out of the drivers side. Made some solids and honestly, I don't notice any nasty vibrations.

Just checked my build book. The stuff was Evaporust. Autozone.

Oh wait a minute..... here's what I started with!

Mine were horrible! I just put plugs in, tilted the engine on the stand and filled it with Derusto, I think. Let it sit a day and tilted to the other side and refilled. Rinsed it out and clean as new. Wish I save more pics, but here's one.

Find a local guy to buy them. IMO they're not worth the cost to ship those anchors. Not that there's anything wrong with them:rolleyes:

Might want to try Mike @ B3Racing. I'll bet he has some laying around.

I think if it was possible(reliably), you wouldn't see guys using exotic W5 W9 stuff to get there. I mean, once you invest in a race block why even bother with anything done by Hughes. Not a cheap shot, but a shot none the less. I fell prey to them. Once.

had a buddy with a 9 second yellow Demon. W9 stuff. R3 block. If I remember he told me his peak flow was 370 ish.... Also said it was around 700 HP. Back half car, Alterkation front. It was a beast!

Call me crazy, but I don't see a 319 CFM head making 750 HP. Maybe on their dyno:thumbsup:

might as well my 2 cents in. I think on a calibrated dyno..........248 at the crank, after some minor tuning pulls. That cam and compression are NOT "best buddies" But who cares? If it runs well and doesn't leak........enjoy it!

Rod must have reaaally improved his heads since 2016 or so. I had the first pair ever sold. At that time he took them back and said they would go back to the drawing board. He is really a stand up guy and I'm glad to hear he's putting out a great head. Good on him!

could it be killing the short side?

Come on, Turk! There's more than 1 way to skin a cat. I know guys that do it either way. Personally , I think maybe prep, the right seal the right way and a wee bit of goop on the ends is the real trick regardless if you're and offset guy or a by the book guy. we all know you can't just slather...

Well. Call me wrong. But I'm gonna continue my wrongness as long as a Superformace seal is involved. I can tolerate a lot, but NEVER a drop or drip of anything. Not my cars, my truck, tractors and especially my body!:D

Well Turk, It's a seal not a bearing. I've put together 11 engines since 2009. Mine and some friends. Always used a Superfomance "pink" rear seal and always clocked them 3/8 offset. Not one has ever leaked a drop. Way back then, Rick @ Superformance told me that's the way ya do it. So I...

Boy I hope you're gonna be ok, but I don't know how it could "look good" without a sonic check. It's like having a bad cough and your Doc looks at your chest and says "looks good". Maybe those old Mopar Jedi's know something my guy doesn't. Just hate like hell seeing a guy build a great engine...

Just checked my records. Boy was I off. Primary was .070 factory. I drilled them to .078. I'm assuming secondary will be .070 also. Probably drill them to .078 also. I have been writing everything down, too. No way I'd remember anything.

Well thanks, now I gotta run over there later. I'm second guessing myself!:popcorn: