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With key on, engine off, there should be very little voltage drop because the only current moving is to power alternator field, the coil (and ECU if there is one). If the ammeter shows more than 5 amps discharge then something is wrong (or there have been modifications). With the engine...

It depends on what is causing the drop. In other words, where is the resistance? If its in the ignition circuit, then the relay is a decent solution. If its in one of the power feeds, then IMO it is much better to fix the power feed. This all makes the assumption that the '83 D150 is wired...

Lets say you set the timing at TDC and measure the following: 750 rpm TDC 800 rpm TDC 1000 rpm 6* BTC 1200 rpm 10* BTC 1400 rpm 14* 1600 rpm 18* 1800 rpm 21* 2200 rpm 23* 2800 rpm 24* BTC Plotting those on the graph, the timing looks the original '73 advance. Circles joined by heavy...

...Then when cats came in they were able to split the difference to some extent. Basically non-smog timing for '66 fell into this spec when set at 5*BTDC And for comparison the '73 225 automatic with its original distribitor advance specs Pinging is usually noticed up in the driving rpm...

It means it might be the original distributor from '73. IF that is the original distributor from '73 then there should be a tag on it. which I did not see in your photos but from the angles thats not surprising...

Any observable correlation between these ND and the type of holster, garments, or firing system? Popular wisdom is that revolvers are less prone to that type of ND, and at the other is end is of course the claims about Sig's P320.

The way I see it is that with just about any forward of the hipbone IWB carry, the muzzle blast from a ND is quite near critical infrastracture. I posed this question to an outspoken critic of the 11-1 AIWB carry and he couldn't respond. Nor could he back up his assumption that the three news...

I suspect Dana's point was that there should be no voltage drop with the key on or off unless something besides the ignition and field are drawing power. Voltage drop only occurs when current meets resistance. Key on with a normal ignition and field should draw no more than 5 amps. The...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/67-69-dart-ignition-switch-pinout.517192/post-1973902121 https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/why-do-68-69-dart-iginition-switches-have-different-ground-plug-ins.444243/post-1972648860 A-bodies don't have a use for a ground terminal. There...

"ping" or gurgle is most likely to be noticed when the engine is fully heat soaked. It is obviously not ideal but only under full load (upper gears, full or near full throttle, will it cause severe damage. 8 degrees at 550 rpm? or 8 degrees at 800 rpm? The rpm can make a big difference. For...

As far as the distance from the throttle pedal to the floor, that looks about correct. IMO the carpet is also in the way and you can confirm that while adjusting the cable for no tension when off, to full throttle. if its in the way of full throttle, remove the carpet. Brake pedal to floor...

lemme add that if its a points distributor then it could be pre-smog, or it could be early CAP/CAS (smog) which had different specs nearly every year. Download a 1966 Plymouth FSM. The initial timing for a 225 should be set at slow idle, which should be 550 rpm with the headlights on. If...

Photo here, but he doesn't state what year. On the slants, the ballancer has a v-belt groove in it. That's what I didn't remember.

^^^^What he said^^^^ List out what this car has and what you are trying to accomplish. There were some some small changes to the 225 in terms of cam and compression, which will slightly effect timing. But if the engine was rebuilt, then those small changes are probably out the window anyway...

The crankshaft pully is attached to a steel damper. The damper is steel with the outer portion (also steel) joined to the inner by a rubber ring.

Damper is the also called the harmonic balancer. That's the circular weight with the TDC mark on it.

Since this is a change, compare the new to the old. In particular the distance from the mounting stud to the pickup center. Can't tell you why there might be a difference but there's only a few parts that could change the signal relative to the rotor tip and cap.

Well then its actually a Chrysler distributor with a FBO plate. If its a MP distributor the original curve was pretty good but the timing at idle rpms may need tweaking for a hot cam. Based on the information now, such as not using vacuum advance, I don't think timing is the issues your...

If you've looked over for visual damage (loose connections, melted wires, etc) and eliminated meachnaicals such the belt slipping as a possibility, then I'm going to suggest doing diagnostics by putting loads through the circuits. One more mechanical check. See if the alternator output stud is...

13 Volts is probabaly showing surface charge. It depends how precise the measurement is. Immediately after charging a wet cell battery will show as much as 13.4 Volts but it doesn't represent the true charge state. Wait a few hours or flip on the lights for 30 seconds and the energy level will...

I have and I've documented it. To be more accurate, it was the light end of the fuel mixture evaporating - not boiling like water or coolant does. When the light components vaporize in the bowl the boosters can be wet but the main characteristic is removing the air cleaner top makes it it go...

Too bad someone messed with it. The older Chrysler built DC and MP distributors came with very good curves in them for their specific purposes. Both could be tweaked by adjusted the spring perches but all this seems to have been a secret (or been forgotten) There should be a primary spring and a...

similar but not the same as this one that was for sale on west of town https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/frostbite-rally-and-show-2019.449594/post-1972742652

He's missing the harness 8 outlind in pink

That's quite decent then. I bumped up to a mid-price spotting scope and it is fine for 0.3" holes in the black at 100 yards in most conditions, but expect it will be struggle at 200 and 300 yds. And I was hoping to also use it for bird watching occassionally but there some weird purple around...

I was going to post it over the weekend but didn't fit in with the conversation at that time. A class act - and I didn't find his post mortem request surprising having watched a fair number of his videos. Still sad but greatful for having had the opportunity he had to share his thoughts, tips...

So you have one but not the other? From console to the kick panel is 266 1142 The one from the kick panel that ties into the instrument panel wiring connectors is 285 7267 if the p/n number survives its printed on a white tape wrapped around the wires.

Check with RI Wiring, the place in Texas and any others that specialize in wiring for antique cars & trucks. Maybe even Restroration Specialty Supply although wiring is not their focus. This stuff has sortof the cross woven look but its a split that rolls up creating an overlapping seam...

Someone took the connector off and placed the wires into positions F & H. I did something similar except with jumper wires. The reason I did it was that my 67 has a '78 727 so could use the combined neutral/back up switch when the disposable column pin for the column back up switch broke...

It will blink faster with more current. (wrong bulb or in this case probably a short in the wires to the corners that don't work. If it blew a 20 amp fuse, likely a short - assuming this is a later model with a fuse on the turn signal circuit.