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It's been awhile since I had a car that detonated, but iirc it sounds kind of like shaking a can of spray paint.

Molnar and Scat start out at 3.58 stroke and I have no desire to build a "stroked" 318. Eagle has one, but after reading about problems people have with Eagle cranks I'm not sure I want to go that route. I know a 318 probably doesn't "need" a forged crank but I'm going to hit it with 150 or 200...

When I tried to put a late model water pump on my 66 I ran into clearance issues between the fan and radiator.

I would keep the stock rockers. Imo adjustable rockers are nice to have even if you switch to a hydraulic cam. If yours are worn (or you're worried about them) I'd call B3 Racing and see about getting them rebuilt or go with the ductile iron rockers from Mancini racing. For timing set I like the...

If it's the same guy I'm thinking of, loose bearing clearances are worth hp, and reversing stock pistons must be worth 10-15 even though it won't show on the dyno. I wonder if it works even better on aftermarket pistons?

Polishing the intake ports can cause problems with fuel drop out.

I would rethink your decision to polish the intake ports.

I just bought a Dart 302 block and a set of AFR 165 heads. After I finish my Valiant I'm going to build a 63 Falcon.

They get a 2 star rating from people who buy them and either can't or won't read the instructions on setting the ring end gap.

Don't know, not mine.

A stoker kit for a 318 is going to run you about $2K. If it was me, I'd keep the stock stroke and use the KB167's, put 1.88/1.60 valves in the heads and have them pocket ported/bowl blended and a Comp Cams 268H or something similar from Howard's Cams. If you know for sure you want a stroker, a...

Thanks. When I run it through that one it gives the same static compression but dynamic drops to 8.94, guess I can stop worrying :)

I got my cam today, Comp 20-629-5. According to the specs, intake valve closes at 45 ABDC. Heads are TF 190 with 60cc chambers, pistons are flat top with 5cc for the valve reliefs and block is .030 over and machined for zero deck height. When I run the numbers through a dynamic compression...

I had a 66 Barracuda, 318 w/302 heads, KB-167's, Comp Cams 268H hft, Weiand Action Plus intake, Edelbrock 1406 carb and headers. Heads had bigger valves (1.88/1.60) installed and a little bowl blending. Never had it on a dyno but it ran really nice, "fast according to my butt-meter".

They might have changed it in 67. That's when they changed body style so possible the changed radiator outlet location that year also.

On my 66 the new cover is 90 deg off.

The timing marks on the cover will be 90 degrees off from the early timing cover, so you'll need to put tape on the harmonic balancer with marks in the right location. If you're running the original radiator and water pump, the marks will be hard to see because the lower radiator outlet from the...

You can get a 3.58" crank that has 340/273 main bearing diameter. Eagle, Molnar, and Scat all offer them. Heck, if you're feeling froggy, Molnar has a 3.79" stroke crank. It has SBC sized rod journals though. As @toolmanmike mentioned, pistons for a stroked 273 might be "fun" trying to find...

I bet they can't make it to 60 pages of comments.

I hope their issues are a thing of the past. Just bought one of their 3.31 stroke forged cranks, only came in town for stock stroke 340 cranks I could find. Scat and Molnar only have stroker cranks in the $1-1.2K price range.

OK genious, then how about instead of going on a rage you enlighten everyone on why the crankshaft DID break? Pretty sure most people here know those marks aren't put onto crankshafts for the purpose of identifying them as cast or forged, but if the crank maker doesn't grind them off, they CAN...

No need to call Eagle, just look at the parting line on the crank.

Looks like parts have been made in China for quite awhile, but quality of those parts depends on the company finishing the parts and selling them here. Anyway, kind of an interesting read: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/06/a-look-into-manufacturing-in-china

The Scat I-beams are nice. The Summit branded ones are the same (even same number forged into the side of the rod) for about $16 cheaper. I think if I ever got to the point where I needed an H beam rod b/c power output is beyond what a good I beam can take, I'd skip the H beams and go with...

What do you think of the TCI Rattler?

It's easy to tell by looking at the parting line, unless that's been ground off.

I like their connecting rods. Wish they'd make a stock stroke (3.31) 340 forged crank.